ill try one for you @ifish
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You grow shops sell them , 1 inch rook wool cubes , big bag
Yes people use just rockwool too doesn’t have to be Mapito : )
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Over here we can’t get 1 inch cubes , ours are 1cm
So Mapito is best ( big chunks in mix )
If I lived in usa I would just use 1 inch cubes no worries
I know it will wick well but a believe it may be too wet in the bag
I’m willing to give it a go
I’m Sure it can be tweeked to work
Next run definitely it will be a good experiment
Especially since I decided to teach my daughter to grow
She is going to have a surprise this week when I show her my secret garden
I could use her help anymore she’s a stoner like me
So many seeds so little time
One reason is I recently had a major scare so ( all good now things worked out )
I guess she should learn a few things from me
And maybe I’ll be able to even take a vacation lol
Paps
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Say @ifish,
Since we are talking about the Jack’s protocol for octos you developed, I wondered if you’d take a few minutes to flesh out the “Why” behind the “What” of your method.
I’d like to know your thinking behind the ratios as @Jetdro mentioned above. Are there any common deficiencies or amendments you’d point out?
Also any options to fine tune things. For example, I’m using Tejas Tomato Food for the youngsters, but it’s messy and makes for a grotty reservoir. Tries to clog my autofeeder too. I’d like an inorganic to replace it with.
If we’re using the 75%Promix, 25% Perlite for soil, what’s your take on Cal/Mg? What do you like for a target pH.
Sorry to Bogart the thread but Paps won’t mind and anything you’d like to offer appreciated.
Respect,
-Grouchy 
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In this case @Jetdro I truly hope so! lol
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Get ready to learn something very few use. USE IT, listen to fish, you will never regret it.
Plants WANT certain NPK RATIOS at certain times. By supplying them, in the proper ratios, it allows the plant to
CONSTANTLY MOVE FORWARD…FORWARD GROWING ALA @ifish
Changed MY GAME!!!
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Oh yeah this is what its all about and staying ahead of issues
The early veg stage I also at one time used ttf and tvf
But could never get the right ratios
In veg I switched to 20/20/20 it give the plant every thing it needs
I add calmag during transition
The npk # recommended in the schedule provides the plant with all it needs at the different stages of development
@ifish showed us how important the actual ratios are
Don’t worry about blowing up my thread I don’t mine
But we may need to work out a small service fee ( car wash ,lawn mowers , house painting you know things )lol
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Same. I’m pleased with the results
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Cuz others be reading I’ll start at start : )
So everyone’s tap different
First we mix feed with regular tap
The first def to show will be mag ( usually ) cuz all tap has calcium in it at some level watchin new growth
Once mag sorted then we watch for calcium def and fix that , watching new growth for results
Now we have calcium and mag dailed in for every feed
While doing that we feed 20/20/20
Nice balance feed plant wants for nothing , we not pushing anything yet , plant just ticks over in veg
Sometimes tho if 20/20/20 for longer than say 4 weeks it’s always best to give the odd feed of bloom ( higher pk in ratio )
Especially if plants become dark green , dull no vibrancy or normal p or k defs show etc , plants can’t store p or k like they can n and can’t move it about as easily
Always lookin for tip burn or clawing to adjust ppm again watchin on new growth
Then we flip to 12/12 , plant now really what’s to grow leaf and stem for 2 weeks so we feed 2/1/1 or similar pushing n , n is for leafs and stem
Because it’s just for two weeks we don’t need to worry about p and k running out as straight after that they will be getting plenty of p and k in bloom feed
W3 now we have plants loaded up in n in leaves as store for rest of grow / backup and main stretch is over we change to 1/3/3 or 1/3/2 and now we building bud
W567 1/4/4 ish
W8 we use 1/2/6 this gives plant signal to finish , no more white hairs new bud will slow down as you need p and k togeather to make bud , the k is good till end as that’s for plant health ie vibrancy , lowering p at end is good signal especially with lower temp lower light intensity etc all workin togeather
Using all these things can really help push a plant to do what you want it to do next ie flower longer or flower shorter time ( within reason )
Any questions just ask : )
If you feed too much n in flower the plant must put it somewhere so it will waste energy it could ave spent makin bud growing more leaf to store it in and this will result in leafy airey colas
That’s the short version lol and just about the ratios
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Brilliantly said sir…
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Boy, am I ever glad I asked. I’ll be parsing that all week.
You have my (our) complete attention.
- Explicate the Ca / Mg octo issue, telltail signs, corrections…
@ifish, DOOD, this rocks, indulge us…
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Mag def
Leaf stems turn purple and centre of fingers have blue purplish hue if you squint
Then next stage finger margins lighten turning bright green then yellow maybe , all strains react different but usually combo of that or in that order
( k def is burnt margins all along serations )
Calcium def rusted dots on green fingers then leaf yellows
Because we in control of what we feed and when we know whats maybe going to happen befor it happens
Tap plus feed ( we know calcium in tap ) so we expect to look out for mag first
Then we watch for calcium
While we on 20/20/20 we look out for leafs dark green and dull no vibrancy ( add bloom feed ) etc
We always pre empt what is going to happen befor even the plant does as we in Control
We know what plant wants and when and we know what we pushin and what we are not , so we know what to look for and when to look for it
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Oh well said brother fish
That’s why we use a medium like a substrate ( promix, sunshine 4 mapito ) there’s no neutral value
So we are in total control of what they get/ need
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Indoor we control it all
Feed , light intensity , spectrum , humidity , temp etc
Use it all to our advantage
The stronger the signal ( two / three or more things workin togeather ) the harder we pushin in our favour
I can reword stuff if needed just ask : )
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Say you growin lots of strains
Come near the end on 1/4/4 some more indica learners are lookin to finsh earlier than others buuuut some more sat hybrids are still throwing pistols
Send a strong signal , lower temp , lower light intensity , lower p
And the sat hybrids will get the message and finish closer to the indicas , they have too , no light no heat and no p with the k to grow more bud
An example of control
You can controll all stages of plant
Always pushin : )
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That is some serious deep wisdom @ifish! Tweak it like a Boss.
Besides addressing the needs of the plant as they arise, what thoughts do you have on maintaining health in an Octo reservoir?
Root Health. What do you do?
For me you bottom feeding already
I also like my tap with chlorine not set out for 24 ( I’m not organic )
Plus rhizotonic ( canna )
I also use cannazym but thinking of lab maybe in mix instead ( for dealing with dead roots ) plus lab is good steriliser for Rez maybe but tap will have to be left out for 24r if lab in use
Rhizotonic is expensive but I don’t use every feed and only veg and stretch
Great for times of stress ,uppoting , explodes roots , and also puts protective coating on roots
Temp is big thing for Rez but it’s too difficult to control plus I am tight ass when it comes to electric
Had mine at all temps high and low with no effects just smells funkier at high temps quicker but that’s all no biggy
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Oh Yes, in my Amazonian Basket per @Jinglepot. Big Roots RaWk.
So, what’s optimal for Octo?
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