It could be from feed being too hot or it’s in the genetics
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Nothing really seems burnt so thats kinda why im leaning towards deficiency. The soil i used is supposed go be very good
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I usually go 1 tablespoon per gallon, but I don’t brew AACT anymore nearly as much as I used to in the past. The plant will make glucose all on its own, and give it back to the soil microbes via exudate excreted through the roots. I’d have to agree with @Papalag, less is more with molasses.
Purple petoles can be from intense lighting, genetics or signify a nutrient imbalance. Same thing with candy striping on the branches.
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Ph water and no signs of improvement. These 1 gal fab pots are drying out pretty quick. Soil is still cool and a bit damp under the dry surface soil. Im not sure what approach i should go with.
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Continue with ph water only since newest growth looks a healthy shade
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Get some unsulfured black strap molasses involved.
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Mix up some 1:500 vinegar to water and introduce vinegar to unbind carbonates in my tap water
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Introduce some aloe or aloe based nute.
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LIFTA??
I dialed the light back some hopefully that helps with the purple stems. As for the mag issue in the leaves im gonna do something just not sure what.
When do you guys start using nutrients?
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Epsom salts is really the “go to” for a fast acting fix, best results are seen from it used in a foliar spray. 1tbsp/gal is what’s worked for me. Additionally, it’s worth saying that Epsom salt won’t alter your pH so any of the foliar solution left, I’d give it to the soil. I can be reapplied weekly until the chlorosis has resigned. In most cases 1 foliar with 1 soil drench is ample.
DONT give Magnesium Sulfate if the plant doesn’t need it. Excessive Magnesium will antagonize the uptake of calcium. If you supplement extra calcium, the surplus will mess with potassium and potentially bond with phosphorus making it too unavailable. So realistically, a foliar is the best choice.
I’m a water only guy, but from my experience once the plant has 3-4 internodes its ok to begin feeding. Go with something lite and gentle. Worm castings or fish manure is a solid source.
You can gradually increase the strength based on how the plant looks and had previously responded. Never follow the dosing on any bottle of liquid nutes. Less is more in every case. The olants will show you when they need more.
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Purple petioles are normally an indication of Phosphorus deficiency, could be strain related as you say or just a “sun tan”
, in which case only the parts exposed to the light would be purple. A foliar spray with diluted Epsom salts would come handy for that Magnesium deficiency… 
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Its so hard to make a proper diagnosis. I want to say its a mag deficiency but its new soil so it should have plenty of nutrients. Maybe after 3 weeks from sprout the plant used it all the nutrients that were in the 1 gal of soil? Or at least used all the mag in the soil?
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Im not familiar with epsom salts. Is there a specific kind i need to look for?
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You could just have a strain that likes more Magnesium. It’s actually pretty common with all the hybrid strains now. If you were depleted of Magnesium I would think that you’d also be showing signs of a calcium deficiency. The two commonly go hand in hand.
But if your in a 1gal pot, I’d definitely start planning a transplant to a larger container in the near future. Pre mixed soil only lasts about 1 -1.5 months before the plants need more nutrients.
So Epsom salts is just Magnesium Sulfate, it’s found local at grocery stores, Walgreens, Wal-Mart, Amazon, ect. It’s in the bath and beauty department, sold as a additive for uses such as soaking feet, or adding to the bath tub for sore muscles. It very cheap too, 4lbs for like $3.50
Just make sure that it’s not scented with shit like lavender. Just get the plain stuff.
So the plant that is the showing the most yellowing between the leaf veins is starting to have spots on the leaf tip if u look very close in the picture is that a sign of a cal deficiency?
It’s possible but the plant in the picture has alot of chlorosis (yellowing) any deficiency’s progression will eventually turn into necrosis (dead brown tissue), so chances are thats just the progression of the Magnesium deficiency but… calcium is immobile, meaning it cannot be taken from older growth and supplied to newer growth, so any immobile nutrient deficiency will show on the new growth. Magnesium is a mobile nutrient and shows on older growth first.
Once you have any form of necrosis, it can not be reversed back to healthy green, chlorosis however can. So don’t be alarmed if the necrotic spots don’t go away after the yellow portions have returned to green.
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My led is about 3ft above and only on 20%
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Interesting, that was my next question.
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I cant wait to learn what it is exactly so i can dial this shit in and grow some a1 meds for me. I’ve experienced this later on in veg and also “rust” spots i run into a lot.
Im thinking the rust spots are maybe cal def? But cal is immobile and would rust out the new growth i thought?
Not sure a about the black parts. Can anybody tell me whats going on? They are a few days short of 1 month old.
@George can you take a guess for me pal?
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whats a good PH for Landrace?
I agree with Ca, the darker blotches could be pH fluctuations …
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If ca is immobile shouldnt it be on the newer growth?