That’s awesome! I do have some questions. Some terms you used are new to me.
ECW basalt- what is this? I don’t recognize anything when I earch for it.
malted 2 row- what is this?
What is chelating?
How much Fulvic do you mix withj the water?
Thanks!
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Trichoderma can help out alot with bud mold and there are some bacterial strains that can help to increase the plant’s natural resistance against alot of fungal and viral infections. It not a 100% of course, but it’s better than nothing. I’d start brewing alot of AACT and pour it on the plants before you start flowering. There’s still enough time you can get some benifit.
But your plants look amazingly healthy as is.
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Basalt is volcanic rock dust, it’s used for mineralization of soils. Glacial rock dust is similar as is Azomite, but also contain some very minor values of heavy metals. Some growers prefer to avoid these and that’s why they choose basalt of volcanic origin.
Malted 2-row or 2-row is barley (grain) it’s used either in malted form or raw which needs to be germinated first and then a seed sprout tea can be extracted from it. It’s a powerhouse of growth hormones and enzymes as well as plant protiens.
Chelation is a type of bonding of ions and molecules to metal ions. It involves the formation or presence of two or more separate coordinate bonds between a polydentate ligand and a single central metal atom. These ligands are called chelants, chelators, chelating agents, or sequestering agents. (From wiki)
Humic and fulvic acids are chelators. In short, they allow compounds (nutrients) to become available to the plant outside of the traditional pH range. Traditionally there’s a sweet spot let’s say in organics of 6.5 where all compounds are available for uptake. Deviate from that 6.5 +/- and the respective compound(s) becomes less/more available. When humic and fulvic acids are used, either in supplemental form or naturally in compost and humus, you don’t have to worry about if nutrients are available due to pH imbalances. This is the a large reason why organic cultivation works without monitoring pH. Well that and Microbes, but Microbes are a whole nother topic. But you get the idea.
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Basalt one of two of the only paramagnetic elements in the whole periodic table the other being Granite.Basalt is found in volcanic soil and can be purchased on Amazon ground up in a powder looks like human cremated remains almost real fine gray powder.Malted two Row barley is a malted barley mix used by brewers and can be broken down into soil when mixed with Earth worm castings (ECW).I use Mr fulvic also on Amazon I believe at 2 to 2 1/2 mil per gallon every watering
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Phosphoric acid is the only thing I know of to lower Ph.
I didn’t know that Clonex {gel} ‘‘Goes off’’…Glad I was warned on here.
Phosphoric acid is pretty fierce -I have used it to clean tarnished brass, and it absolutely strips limescale from old taps {Have used it for that before} …I too would be interested in a ‘Less ferocious’ PH down.
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Soil is far more forgiving…It has a ‘Buffering’ effect.
That’s so interesting, Cap’n!
Is it ‘Safe’ to recycle soil?{canna professional/bio bizz/ plagron} --I haven’t tried re~using mine, but break up the used stuff and put it in garden outside.
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You can recycle Soil all day long all you have to do is reamend it Cannabis actually prefers it and all the leftover root mass makes very good drainage and feed material .I break mine up and put it in black plastic totes from the dollor store wet it down with Fulvic acid and I let it sit capped off for 2 weeks.
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Thank you so much for writing this out! This is a lot to take in, so I’ll be coming back to this for reference.
This is great info!
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Happy to help my guy!
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You’ve gotten plenty of good advice here, but I wanna throw this out there. I really like putting cuttings in a plastic cup, right against the side of the cup. I have used coco/perlite and straight coco, and straight perlite. All have worked about the same. Straight perlite is hard to keep at the right moisture, so I make a little mini hempy to keep some moisture available to wick up the perlite. I’ve had really good success with it, and you can see the cutting to monitor their progress(if you use a clear cup anyway). I use cheap ass cloning powder from tractor supply.
Take the cuttings with some extra length, put them in a cup of water. When I’ve got all the cuttings I want, I take a chopstick and make a space between the media and the cup. Take the cutting, make the final angled cut below a node, and scrape one side of the cutting past the first layer for about 1”. Dip it in cloning powder( I pour out a little pile so I don’t contaminate the whole container) then place it in the space you made with the chopstick without scraping the cloning powder off. Take the chopstick and firm the media against one side of the stem. Water down the middle of the cup with 1/2 strength nutes to runoff and set under a dome, on a mat set to 80* if temps are too cool. Don’t water again for a week.
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Thanks, Cap’n ! {Re Recycling Rooty used soil }
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Thanks, potpotpot.
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Hey, I sped read the thread but I noticed you might have the tray right on top of the heat mat? Unless you have a thermostat that’s gonna be too hot and cook any clones. (I learn from my own bone headed mistakes).
I have a seed starting kit from Burpee I think, and it has a stand that’s about 2 inches high and the seed tray sits on top of that with a wicking mat that pulls moisture up to the seedlings. Then the dome goes on.
So, if you’re trying to clone them right on top of the mat it’ll cook them one way or another. Usually damping off. I’ll try to get a picture of what I’m talking about. peace
EDIT: here’s the tray I use. It has the 2” high stands that keeps the clone tray off of the direct heat. I may be thinking of seeds now that I think about it, but I could see it screwing with the root stem, too. Good luck!
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McShnutz,
I have some trichoderma on they way.
Do you have a product recomendation for bacterial strain?
Can ytou elaborate on how to brew it?
Thanks!
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@petedacook
Nice move on the Trichoderma!! It’s definitely going to be a game changer for you. And with all that wood mulch you’ve got going under those monsters bushes, you’ll see it colonize the shit out of it. There’s 3 strains of Trichoderma that I focus specifically on, (and I’m sure I have more from all the composting I do) but they are…
T. Harzianum, T. Koningii, T. Viride
Also, if you really want to get your Trichoderma populations to the absolute max, pick up some chocolate bean shell mulch. They go bonkers for it. Like scary bonkers dude! I’ve never seen anything like it before in all my years on anything else in the mulch category. Just got to make sure it’s at 2-3" deep layer and it stays damp. The surface will dry, but once it locks together, it’s gonna hold its moisture extremely well.
Ok, so bacteria… this is a big big category, with sub categories, so I’ll keep it as simple as I can. First and foremost you’ll want to focus on Endophytic bacteria, quite a few of them are commonly found in your everyday microbial products.
3 purchased products that I have used are …
Fox Farm ----KANGAROOTS
Microbe Life hydroponics---- PHOTOSYNTHESIS PLUS
Mammoth Farms---- MAMMOTH P
These 3 are going to be your work horses. You have your main basis covered and a solid broad spectrum to get your Rhisophagy cycle started.
There’s some endo/ecto mycorhizal included in 2 of those products also. I tend to give alot of emphasis on bacteria, especially for annual plants, but mycorhizal fungi also play an important role and just further help to complete the microbial loop, aid in Diversity and work in a symbiotic harmony for nutrient acquisition and pH regulation.
Lastly is a flaculative anerobe, I will NEVER grow without. That is Lactic Acid Bacteria (LAB)
You can make your own at home very easily or purchase it.
Terraganix---- EM1
I would recommend making it, there’s a multitude of uses not just for horticulture either.
NOW, as far a brewing it… that’s not 100% necessary. But you can grow your populations in an AACT first, then drench with it. All of what I listed can also be used in a foliar spray, except Mammoth P, that one belongs strictly in the soil to help access and produce phosphorus from the nitrogen based organic matter. This particular bacteria thrives on Alfalfa, coincidentally this is what’s used to cultivate it. So if it’s in your soil, big bonus as you’ll have a never ending supply of P.
Typically when I brew an AACT, I use 1tbsp/gallon of unsulfured Blackstrap Molasses.
If your using 0ppm water I’d advise adding a few tablespoons of Azomite. The volcanic ash seems to really make a difference compared to just relying on the minerals in the blackstrap. But the idea here is the sugar wakes the microbes up, and after it’s quickly consumed, the minerals from the Azomite keep them going.
Brew this in a stationary tub or outside because your going to have a shit ton of foam spewing out. Foam is a sign of enzymes. Enzymes are produced by bacteria. So to guage your brews populations, look at the foam that’s being created. Brew for 24-48 hrs.
With all this being said, it’s important you check your airstone. The high enzymes and insane bacterial populations with create biofilms and they’re going to latch onto your airstone. Check it once or twice durring the brew cycle to clean off any films, otherwise you’ll have a reduction in dissolved 02.
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I absolutely think the mat was too hoht and cooking them. I set the tray directly on top of the heating pad.
I stopped using the pad because it was just too hot. I’m not gonna break that hot pad out unless I have temperature control.
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A lot of people will fold a towel a few times and put that between their heating pad and the pots. Keeps them temps at a reasonable level.
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That’s a great idea! I might need that this winter growing in the basemement near the laundry room. Not sure why I didn’t think of something so simple.
Thanks for this!
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Wow! That’s so much more esoteric thtan I imagined. I have to wassk; where did you learn all of this? I’m thinking maybe if you read it or something I can read it as well, but it sounds like you know more than just reading a tutorial or something.
Thanks for writing this out. It’s great information!
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