Wow…someone had a productive evening!! Well done, sir!!!
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Thanks, my grandpa was a carpenter by trade. This is my first time doing this by myself, but I have watched him build plenty of walls.
Yes, I will be insulating the walls and ceiling for noise. I am going to put up wallboard on the walls, then mud, texture, and paint them. I may actually pay a friend to do that part.
Thanks, but it was more like 8 hours to get it all done. Took the day off work.
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You should bust out the saw & do one, just for kicks… 
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When I was putting up the walls, I had to remove the trim around the entrance door. When I removed the trim pieces, the door swung open. Apparently the latch was not connected to the door casing at all, one good bump with your shoulder and you would have been in the workshop. What I thought was going to be an easy project, ended up taking me three days. The first issue to deal with was the door frame. It’s hard to see in this picture, but the door was framed with two studs and a top piece between them. When I measured the rough opening, it was an inch too narrow.
To frame the door properly, I needed to move the studs over. First I cut out the header with the sawzall, then I removed the trim and nails holding the paneling to the studs. After that I was able to get the studs out and move them over. Remember to always measure twice and cut once.
With the studs moved over, I was then able to build the door frame with the proper rough opening size. Once in place, the frame was nailed to the studs. The last thing to do was trim the leftover paneling and footer. I tried using the sawzall on the paneling and ripped it. I had much better luck using my jigsaw.
With the proper rough opening size, I was able to get the door shimmed in place and level. In retrospect, I would have cut the bottom of the frame so the door didn’t have such a large clearance. Apparently this pre-hung door is pre-measured for carpet clearance.
Than’s okay, I installed a threshold to make up the difference. I think it gives it a nice look, even if it may be a tripping hazard. The trim pieces were a bit smaller than the other door, so I trimmed them down, then used one of the interior scrap pieces for the top, which is now an inch wider. I filled all the nail holes with wood filler and sanded it. Now the threshold and the trim is all taped up and ready for paint.
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While the trim pieces were drying, I decided to turn my attention to another project. The way they wired these rooms was quite interesting. The workshop light is on the same switch as the family room light, which is by the stairs to the basement. I turned off the breaker in that room so I could work on the light.
When I looked in the box, I could see a jumble of wire and tape, I’m sure it was totally to code… One thing that bothered me, was this box was wired to the outlet that my workbench was using, turns out that plug was never grounded. So after cleaning up some wiring, I am ready to install my switch. I love wago connectors.
The old outlet wasn’t run properly either, They ran the wire under the studs between the furring strips and the ceiling tiles. Nothing a drill and a paddle bit won’t fix. Seriously, it took me about five minutes, why didn’t they do this originally?
Wired in a basic switch and mounted it to the studs bu the door.
After double checking all of my connections, I turned back on the breaker. The light switch now works perfectly. It is on regardless of whether the family room light is on or not.
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I wasn’t too happy with the way the door latch plate was mounted. It wouldn’t take a whole lot more than a good kick or two to bust it down.
To improve security I bought a security door latch plate. This latch has four holes with extra long screws that can be angled to attach to the studs. I also added a long screw into the studs at each of the three door hinges.
Finally, I painted the doors. I took an old can of paint that was used in the family room and got a color match done on it. It came out pretty close.
I liked the way it came out so much, I went ahead and did the bathroom door across the hall to match.
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Coming together and looking good @ReikoX! Nice to have the room more secure and safer.
Did you ever decide what kind of flooring to use?
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I’m with 
, HashTree, looking great.
Cheers Johnny
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Think I’m going with some cheap $0.79 / sqft clay tile.
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These problems are usually what you find, when you start re doing things in your house. Its always ends up more complicated, because they take shortcuts in the original build to save time.
When putting up drywall, I leave the door frames until its all up. Makes it easier to cut the plaster board tight to the edge of the stud after its up. Otherwise you have to cut the board before you hang it around the door frame, and then you get a gap between the edge of stud and the door frame if you’re not precise, which makes it harder to anchor the trim around the door with only a small overlap.
Your doing a great job man.
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re: “measure once, cut twice”
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I wish I could wallpaper like that lol
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When designing the workshop, I was going to run a new 20-amp circuit for the rooms. When trying to figure out how I wanted to run the wiring, I decided to use a 70-amp sub panel I already had from my storage cabinet. It already has two tandem breakers, giving me a total of four 15-amp circuits. One will be used for the flower room, another one for the veg room, a third one for the driver cabinet, and the last one will be unused for now.
I was looking at my service panel to see if I had room for another circuit. Clearly I have a few knockouts left, so I could put more breakers in there. It says it is a 125-amp panel, but already has 155 amps of breakers on it. From what I understand, it is typical to have up to two times the amperage of the panel worth of breakers. If that’s the case, I have plenty of room left for a 60-amp breaker. Any sparky’s want to chime in here?
The plan was to run conduit from the service panel outside of the house to the workshop. I should be able to come in above my window and run it between the ceiling joists then drop straight down to the sub-panel. I’m still uncertain about what I want to do with the LED drivers. I found a decent sized DIN box that would be large enough to hold the drivers, Sonoff automation, and Blufish controller. I am thinking I will use conduit and run the LED wires outside the walls. I ran a lot of conduit for the workbench and storage cabinets, so I should have all of the pieces to run it. This will allow me to upgrade my lights at a later date.
Finally I decided on how to run my outlets. As you can see I have outlets on the walls for where the fans will be, as well as an outlet in the ceiling for the exhaust fans. I may move them so they are on the walls, but high. Anyone see an issue with an outlet in the ceiling?
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Only if you are vertically challanged Looks good, outlets high up is basically what I have just done in my flower room, life is so much easier, dont have to worry about bumping and timers or thermostats, so long as the cords on whatever gets plugged into them can reach the floor or where they need to go, where you got them on the diagram looks perfect.
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The Green Crack cuttings are still alive, no roots yet. It’s been seven days, but I am not using a heat mat.
And I had to trim my bonsai mothers. They are definitely happy and healthy. Been feeding them pH adjusted megacrop (V2) and tap water.
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Your main wire into the main box tells you a lot. The gauge, material, and how it is coming in your house can tell you a lot how much power is coming into your house. You may have more than 125 amps coming into the main box but your breaker is holding you back. (if that makes sense)
You will be fine with running a 60 amp on your current box. Just make sure you get a larger gauge wire to run the new box, I would use a 4 gauge wire, some use 6, but 4 is better for constant power.
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You make me want to rip out everything in my basement and start from scratch. If only I had the time, money and know-how…sigh
Looks effin’awesome @ReikoX
That all sounds inline with what my buddy is saying. He is coming around tomorrow morning to look at things and give me an estimate. He could do it as soon as Sunday.
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So I was browsing through OG and ran into someone using these totes for no-till beds. They are 64-gallon totes that measure perfectly to fit in a 2’ x 4’ area. Looking at the measurements, three of them would fit perfectly in the 4’ x 6’ flowering room. The wheels are rated at 400 lbs, so I should be able to put around 50-gallons of water/soil in them.
They are pretty cheap at $37 USD a pop, and they are already built. If you factor in my time to build the rolling base and fabric beds, this is a lot cheaper. I can also pick them up locally at Lowes, so no ordering or shady grow stores. They can hold quite a bit more than my design. My design was for 30-gal of soil, these could do 45-gal (6 cubic feet) of soil and still have a bit of room for my mulch layer. They also fill the room better, leaving me with less empty floor space. I plan to do these like a traditional Soma style bed. The PVC will also allow me to insert a trellis like in my previous design.
They are going to be a lot harder to move than what I had originally planned. I only really need to move them for maintenance, as I can easily reach everywhere to water with my Chapin concrete sprayer. I tested that out already. These will be sitting directly on the concrete floor which is generally cold, using lava rock on the bottom, like a Soma bed, should give a small layer of insulation. There are no drain holes on these, and there are no drip trays. I was thinking about putting a drain hole on the side like an Earthbox or Hempy bucket. I could then put a tray under that if I happen to water to runoff, which I rarely do in my no-till beds. They wont have the air pruning that I would get with the typical air pot, but I doubt that will matter much in this sized bed, plus fabric pots dry out much faster in the desert.
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That room is coming along fantasticly. You can see the thought and palnning that has gone into it and the results are starting to show.
Excellent work @ReikoX it’s going to be a great new set up.
thos plastic totes look like a great alternative and doing a soma style will give you air to th elower section of the tote as well as insulation, not bad idea.
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