ReikoX's Workshop

I really like my SOLstrips. J hope you got the heatsinks for them too, mine are a lot bit warm with heatsinks at 1400ma. Seeing your led beans I wonder if mine are in my mailbox too.


I ordered the heat sinks with them (the other bubble wrapped package).


2/3 of a screen full of Durban Poison. I could have done better with just the two plants for future reference.

A little bit of flower development going on here, about two weeks flowering. To be honest, I don’t remember exactly when I switched to 12/12, but I feel they have a LONG way to go.


Skimmed over the build out part a bit and the most obvious thing I would change is the AC. I would use a Mini Split system and contain everything in the room and add a bit of CO2 so that you need little to no air exchange. I also do professional grow rooms in my spare time if you need help. :wink:


So you would do the mini split in the flower room instead of a lung room? Seems overkill for <1000 watts of light no?


ReikoX’s Cannagar Tutorial
To cure the leaves, I first take them fresh off of the plant and vacuum seal them. Then I put them some place warm like on a seedling mat for a couple of days. After a few days, the moisture will be removed from the leaves and may even pool in the bag. I remove the leaves and let them dry until they are just starting to crisp up at the ends, then vacuum seal them again for a week or so.

Next I shape the cigar. A cigar mold would probably work better, but the artisan hand rolled cigar is always nice as well.

First, I shaped the tip of the cigar with some hemp twine. The idea is to get the hemp twine as thick as the cigar will be in the end.

Next, I weighed out about 7 grams of bud and removed any large stems. I broke the buds down so they were a uniform size, and formed them into shape with a bamboo rolling mat.

Then, I cut a piece of parchment paper and wrapped it around the buds. This helps keep the buds from falling apart when wrapping them with the hemp twine.

Aafter that, I wrapped it tightly with the hemp twine. Notice how much more compact it got wrapping it like that.

Finally, I vacuum sealed it for about a week. This will help it keep its shape when wrapping the leaves later.

After a week or so of being tightly wrapped, I carefully removed the hemp twine and parchment paper. Now it’s time to finish wrapping the buds with the leaves. For this cannagar I’ll use about 7 grams of Holy Grail 69 bud, 0.5 grams of mixed kief, about 1 gram of Skunk rosin, and several Duban Poison (male) leaves.

First I pressed the dry sift between two pieces of parchment with a hand clamp. This is kief from under my cleaning screens. A full gram would have been better, I’ll make due with what I have.

The bud was lightly covered in rosin and rolled in the pressed kief. To use the rosin, I put a dab on my dab tool and melt it with my e-nail. Then while it’s liquid I can smear it on the bud or leaves.

Each of the fingers of the leaves were carefully removed. Using the rosin as an adhesive, I first made the tip of the cigar by putting a hole in the middle of the leaf and putting through the skewer.

Smearing heated rosin on each leaf, I finished covering the cannagar. This was then vacuum sealed and will age until 4/20.


that’s amazing man! I always wondered how you would get the thing to draw properly after packing all the weed in there, the stick-through-the-middle idea is brilliant. So is packing and curing the weed into shape before trying to do the outer wrap with leaves.


Absolutely beautiful.

Hope you won’t mind if I bite the technique. :smirk: :sunglasses:


Not really my technique, i got it from an episode of Bong Appetite. But I did post it here for all to try. :thumbsup: :seedling:


It’s certainly a lot safer than a window unit that exhausts the inside air/smell outside. Of course I suppose that isn’t important if your in a legal area or if you have no intention of utilizing CO2.


I think I answer yes to both those questions, but I think I will put a filter in each room rather than scrubbing the air in the rest of the room. Here is a rough sketch of what I’m thinking.


I was going back and forth between window units or mini splits…I didnt think about the window units smelling like a skunk…is there a way they won’t exhaust the inside air? Or would air cleaners be absolutely necessary for masking smell.

Maybe I should spend the extra and get a mini split


I know my small window unit is not air tight, but I filter my cabs.


That looks awesome, what software do you use to render this?

I have hand drawn plans I need to convert to something I can get realistic renderings of… I don’t visualize 2d as well as I can 3d.

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I use Sketchup for all my models. It’s free and pretty easy to use once you grasp the concept. I have been using it for almost a decade now, so it’s pretty easy for me. I put that together in about 20 minutes. :thumbsup: :seedling:


Pressed some Jilly Bean trim. 3.75 grams pre-pressed and wrapped in a ChemX coffee filter.
Room temp 72°F/40% RH.
Plate temps 85°C/85°C, 5:00 press time, two presses.
Yield ~5% , 0.2 grams. Trim always yields low.


yummy… enjoy the edge of space out… maybe some uncontrollable body movements as it hits home.


@anon58740919, here is a sneak preview of your SolStix from @Baudelaire . DIY lighting with the SolStix couldn’t be easier. The SolStix is a strip LED PCB, the SolStrip, with a pre-drilled and tapped matching heatsink, the SolSink. They are designed for 1" angle, in my case I went with 1/8" thick aluminum angle. For this build, I plan to run six SolStix 5" apart. They need about 1/2" on either side, so both pieces were cut to 26". I laid everything out and checked my measurements.

Next I measured and pre-punched my holes. A bit of hint here, measure from the inside edge, not the outside edge. The thickness of the material needs to be taken into account. Instead of 1/2" from the inner edge, I did 1/2" from the outer edge. Luckily I just flipped the piece over and re-drilled the holes. I think I forgot the old saying “measure twice and cut once”, my grandpa would be disappointed. :smiley:

The SolStix come with hardware for mounting the strips to the heatsinks, but do not come with hardware to connect the heatsinks to the frame. They are tapped for M3 5mm screws. I got some M3 6mm to accommodate the thickness of the angle iron. Each screw was first screwed in lightly, giving some play to get all the holes aligned. After that the screws were each tightened to stabilize the whole frame.

I cleaned each piece of aluminum with some alcohol to remove any oils or contaminants. Using the included hardware, each strip was screwed on to the heatsink with a nylon washer.

Next step was to wire up the SolStrips in parallel using 18/2 solid core wire. Three strips on each side are wired with a wago connector, then both sides connect to the driver with another wago connector.

I hooked up the driver and all systems check out! Next step will be to solder the dimmer to the driver and drill a few holes to hang the light. I’m debating if I want to ditch the CMH and ballast and replace it with this (remote ballast), or just stick it in there like I did with the veg light. :thinking:


A thing of beauty @ReikoX I’m never one for simple design. Very nice clean work there. Can’t wait to get mine started. Mainly been focussed on cobs at the minute because I anticipated doing them first but I may be wrong if my stix arrive before heatsinks. I’ll definitely be bookmarking this post in case I need to reference cheers bro


Superb work… I love it’s so neat . Where are you going to have the drivers :grinning::grinning:

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