I am growing outdoors in the jungle here in the tropics and it’s fair to say I have all types of bugs visiting my plants regularly, there are both plant feeders and predatory insects so as a whole the system is quite balanced but my question is on spidermites… I have never had an infestation but they do visit regularly and leave bite marks before either something preys on them and eats them or I squash them with my my fingers. Very rarely is there more than 5 per leaf and normally only on certain strains. So my first question is how harmful are they if their numbers never get to multiply to large amounts and secondly what are some good organic outdoor preventative techniques to keep them away for good? TIA
There is no organic substance that works worth a damn even indoors so…
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Predator bugs would be an excellent choice imho - persimilis and californicus could both be good options.
With respect, I think what you meant to say is you have not found an organic spray that works for you.
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Thanks PlantShepherd, naturally predatory insects come and clean for me but they never stick around and so the mites return. Are the species you mentioned likely to hang around in an outdoor scenario while growing in pots? I feel they will leave when there’s nothing to eat.
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If there is nothing to eat, the numbers may diminish. However, if you are in the tropics there very well might be food for them to eat. You will want to do a little research on your own to see what species will work best with your temps, humidity, etc but spraying in a tropical environment would be frivolous imo. Also, you can use pepper pollen to feed mites when they don’t have bugs to eat. I forget off the top of my head which varieties are most suitable. Bug Lady Suzanne is a wealth of knowledge on such topics. 
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JWA ( Jadam wetting agent) is my sole go to it puts the hammer down on anything Iv used it on in essence it’s a plant based fatty acid homemade soap just like safer’s insecticidal soap I have a recipe to follow in my 2019 thread cost less then 5$ to make over a gallons worth of concentrate! Takes about three days to make
Iv been trying to get my plants as healthy as possible various resource That Iv come across state that plant Brix levels over 12 Brix most Pest won’t even bother chewing on leaves with high sugar content The only thing that might attempt is the family of beetles which have a high complex Digestive systems A little 20$ refractometer tool is all that’s needed to help determine where your plants are.
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I keep my vegetable garden on high Brix diet and foliar spray with LABS and molasses or Dr Bronner with fruit juice. The sugar draws a variety of wasps and predator bugs… then sip coffee and watch the carnage
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Interested Iv been following your threads off and on when time allows care to elaborate? Or are we talking something as simple as Molasses treatments in the soil
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Thanks TinyT, great info all round. I have the JADAM book and the wetting agent has unfortunately not been made yet due to not sourcing all the ingredients… Central America can be tricky for supplies. I’ve also read and heard many reliable sources say a plant at it’s optimum health won’t be put under serious bug pressure so I think that’s what we all striving for. Majority of my 25+ years growing has been in dryer climates so I’m not ashamed to say I have lot to learn growing in an equatorial region. But I am loving the natural 12/12 light cycle and harvesting every 4 to 8 weeks almost all year round. Flip,flip,flip haha
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Minerals increase Brix. I use sprouted seed teas for quick cheap source of Minerals. My well water is also mineral rich … silica and copper was clogging my sprinklers
ETA: @Tinytuttle
And don’t forget the comfrey is full of minerals.
Most growers use rocks like basalt azomite zeolite BAS mineral pack etc
i think we forget that all living things have minerals…vegetables beans fruits herbs grains etc
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Thanks Danza again good info, I’ve actually been trying to keep sugars off my leaves and spray mostly coconut water(straight out the tree), LABS and Aloe… I was trying not to attract anything and also thought wasps etc were more into worms and larger insects and the mites were to small to be on their radar. Wasps do visit regularly too though saying that. What would you call a high Brix diet?
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Oyster shell and dried molasses in soil. Egg shells, shrimp shells in compost. Just layer minerals through out your grow. No bugs inside and few caterpillars outside so ring the bell for flying predators with sugar
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I tried to find your 2019 thread, what title is it under?
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Just my thoughts (which, don’t mean too much)… As long as the natural predators keep the mites from becoming an overwhelming problem, then I think you may be in an ok situation. Nature doing its thing, and keeping stuff in balance.
Unless you had a way to naturally lure in more predatory insects?
Growing indoors, there is no nature or balance, so when the mites get in… they overwhelm everything and we need chemicals or need to buy a box of predatory insects and have them shipped.
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I don’t take clones from people. Have compromised immune system so keep inside clean. Always used high brix feeding and soil. Luckily I have never had PM, gnats, mites, thrips etc. Dexterity issues…pots cups go through dishwasher. Fabric pots soak and get washing machine
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My soil is full of predator mites. They like grains. I use mostly natural food grade stuff to feed the soil mites and earthworms. Soldier flies, palmetto bugs, other crawlies leaves insect frass, chitin. Looked these creatures up and left them alone. They pay their rent
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You can get free soil mites from alfalfa hay. The seeds will grow in your plants and provide nutrients and aeration.
Kale has alfalfa growing in the pot. No problems so I will add to other backyard containers.
ETA: soil mites in bags of hay at feed stores like Tractor Supply. Get small bag gives mulch, mites and seeds.
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Sounds like you have a balanced ecosystem, I wouldn’t do a thing to change it.
Indoors, without the natural predators, mites can get out of control. Clearly outdoors you have predators, including you squishing them.
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Mites die indoors if no food. I feed them sprouted seed tea, grains etc. I noticed they die if I don’t feed the soil after plants are harvested. I also water harvested pots with LABS to keep soil from drying before recycled or new plant inserted. Mites may be moving to next pot with food; have to watch to verify. They are not on furniture clothing countertops etc. Didn’t consider infestation. Use hospital disinfectant to clean because of artificial kidney machine. Alcavis smells like fancy bleach. Might be helpful for preventing infestation.
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I plant basil oregano marigold as companions for vegetables outdoors. I will add mint and nasturtium this year. Last year there were no mosquitoes. Still learning how to help balance things. Only the okra had aphids because no companions.
Learning types of flying predators. Lots of wasps hoverflies… they come to drink water … I sugar coat the hornworms
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