Mine hovers around 150 - 160 mark.
Ph in the high 7s
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Cheers mate.
I was probably unnecessarily adding a tiny fraction of cal mag for fear of having it too low despite my starting values as everything i read about coco growing led me to believe you just can’t over do it. Wrong I was.
I’ve eased off and as said run a heartier feed. So far so good.
Think I can for now rule out nutrient burn as they are looking happy and the new top growth is looking healthy.
Humidity still an issue though. Getting loads of condensation amongst the fan leaves. Has me super paranoid on developing mildew / bud rot later.
Hope clearing out the leaves once I start scrogging and adding a few small fans (when there is a little more room) to the oscillating one will help.
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Looking gurrrrrd man did you move the net down or have they stretched that far? And on your mildew worries it depends really on how the area breathes so when you do crop all the lowers when you’re at scrog level I think you’ll be fine.
Cal-mag is a funny one I only know this due to my friend doing the same thing basically killing them with cal-mag 
unless you run RO water there isn’t much point adding calmag unless you have a deficiency or if there are other benefits at the end with calmag.
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Thanks for the guidance sir.
Gonna keep as is for now and just focus on the Blue Gelato 41 and scrogging it.
The Auto DPs are a bonus and hope the flowers fill out best they can. Might even instigate an occasional slightly stronger feed just for the flowering DP ladies.
On the run off. With coco I was under the impression that 10-20% is minimum to aim for and other than boardering on over watering / flushing nutes down the pipe there is no major issue with a higher % volume run off.
As for the rise in the EC. Seems lots of debate on validity of measuring run off EC out there. However, most will potentially agree that a big spike is a clear sign of some form of malabsorption. Some would say - including link below - that it points to insufficient watering events and hence evaporative accumulation in salts. However, as mentioned I’ve never actually had the coco dry - only the smallest fraction (5mm max) if the surface dries between my watering events. The sides of the fabric pots are always cool and moist to the touch.
Anyway. Latest res is running at 2.078 EC & 5.76-5.80 PH and RTW run off is measuring 2.414 EC & 5.35-5.40 PH. Again the slight drop in the PH and a 16% / 0.35 EC rise in nutes. Seems this is just above where it may be an issue. Going to trial switching to two watering events. One just after lights on (as done currently but shorter) and a second mid way through the light on cycle.
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Hey bud. Thanks for the cautionary tale from your friends experience. Makes sense to lay off it.
Indeed. No lowering the screen they just popped almost overnight with the new feed regime. So heavily leaning to having left them too hungry and potentially nitrogen deficient before.
I did some bushwhacking this evening and chopped out the monster indica squat fan leaves. They were beautiful. Bigger than my hand with fingers all stretched out.
Felt it was necessary given I came home to a first tonight: condensation running down the inside walls 
.
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So I think I’ve spotted the first little white pistil this evening after doing some fan leaf trimming on the Gelato to help manage humidity. Upper plant branching is also starting to alternate.
Any agreement on this being pretty solid signs of sexual maturity?
Plants have also started poking through the top of the screen and I am worried about managing the space not knowing how much stretch to expect.
As a result am tempted to switch to 12/12 lighting and as it is expect I’ll potentially end up with a jungle and may be overwhelmed with clone potential.
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If the nodes are asymmetrical, then she should.be ready to flower! 
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Thanks mate. Am planning to switch soon. However want to try get a bit more initially screen fill.
Ive come across a lot of commentary that one really only has 1-2 weeks of initial flowering to weave the screen. Dependent stretch in a particular genetic.
Separately. Growing in Canna Pro coco with Canna A+B mutes - would anyone recommend as critical adding Canna Boost into the mix? Is it a noticeable bud outcome factor? Does the single feed of PK13/14 have a significant impact?
As a first time hobby grower I’m wondering if this ends up being a kick yourself moment. Spent cash already so what is another 15squids on the boost or the PK.
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I’ve written off the Durban Poison Auto’s to “a return to learning” but the buds are looking a bit too fluffy and not really filled out.
I wasn’t too worried about it but today noticed that some of the buds may be “Fox tailing” and getting a bit thin and whisky.
Hence the question on the nutes during flowering.
I wanna smash the Gelato out the park… well exceed the DP Auto outcome at any rate.
Canna Boost?
Alternatives? Big Bud for Coco? Do you add all flowering nutes to a baseline A+B solution?
Input please.
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How close were your lights to the canopy in flower? Also, remember Durban Poison is “sativa” type plant & doesn’t generally form big or dense flowers, as far as I know.
What air temperature was flowering in?
From the last picture, I’d say a bit too much feeding N possibly(?).
Autoflowers are new to me & they evidently use less nutrients than regulars from what I’m reading.
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Lights were never more than 10” or less than 6” from the tops.
Total 6 solstrips @ 145W - roughly 40Wsqf
Temps always between 23-25*C (73-79F)
RH has been high at 55-65% mid cabinet (70-90% amongst the leaves) but then left it to bias photoperiod plant still begging.
Feed has been Canna coco A+B at 75% of recommended preflower Levels (again biased to photoperiod).
Been giving Autos a discrete feed every two days at 100% feed of flowering A+B dosage.
Have wondered if stretch on buds was P or K related. Hence questions on supplements.
However while I was worried about underfeeding the Auto as I was feeding basis recommended strength for veg period, your comments non N and Autos leave me wondering if I over did it.
No signs of burn on the Auto from the extra feed.
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This is what I would expect as well.
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So. Flipped to 12/12 with 20% of the scrog net filled by weaving the longest tops.
No doubt I’ll still be cutting a lot of clones because I don’t see how all the shoots are going to stretch but let’s see.
If length doubles from here I should be able to almost fill the screen. Before I get there im hoping my Durban Poison Auto should be ready to harvest giving me more screen to fill.
To be honest. I’ll be glad for having less plants in there and being able to trim away loads of the Gelato as she stretches. Reason is the humidity. Really really struggling to control things.
I even got a mini dehumidifier from the charity shop. It’s pulling about 300ml of water a day. However, humidity is still at 65-70 in mid cabinet airspace and 85-100% in amongst the leaves. Since the 12/12 switch ive now also got water running down the inside of the cabinet everywhere!!! 
How I am not going to get bud rot with that in my DP buds I do not know 
I think the lesson is less plants in the same space…
Here latest shots of the DP buds. Scrog updates soon.
<img src="/uploads/default/original/3X/a/1/a1a25992612f19e27ca91e26d60799e21c984d49.jpeg" width=“666” height="500”>
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Update on the scrog.
Been 3 days of 12/12 and stretch so far has been limited but that’s all possible to change as we go to the next phase of nutes.
I’ve also got to admit to being a complete failure from the school of LITFA. As if life with two different strains on different timings and a humidity issue weren’t enough I decided to drop the screen 2”.
The DP buds were never going to be prize worthy but they’ve been a bit manhandled now. At least I can attest to good stickiness.
Thankfully no growth tips were lost on the Gelato and no snapped buds on the DP.
Scrog has begun to weave. Will be away for 10 days. Terrified of what I’m coming home to. Part of the reason for the “screen extreme” decision was to ensure I had a chance of keeping the tops as far from the lights as possible.
I plan to early harvest the DP in 2-3 weeks to leave more screen room.
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After 10 days away this is what I’ve returned to.
DP Autos have added bulk and weight but also gotten a bit more fox tailed with the whispy ends getting a bit bleached under the LED.
And… dumm dumm dumm… BUD ROT!!! 
given my humidity issues I am not in the least surprised.
I’ve managed to snip out the affected area but no doubt this will spread. I’ve inspected best I could and not noted it anywhere else.
It’s the end of week 10 from seed sprout and Dutch Passion reckon the Autos should be done here. I don’t have a jewellers lens or fancy microscope. Though by the eyes alone I think the bit of frost I’ve got looks a bit more dull than when I last saw it.
As a result I plan to cut them down this week and hope I don’t see any more rot develop on drying.
Any ideas?
Cut it out as soon as possible?
Once the space is cleared it will give me more room to train the Gelato.
Things learnt so far:
- This size box is a maximum two plant scrog. Potentially one big plant.
- planting autos and photop plants at the same time can be managed but far from optimal
- Sonoff TH16 boxes are fiddly pieces of crap: they short out on using a 4pole extension cable and the included temp & humidity sensors cable is too damn short
- SCROG is a lot harder than i thought… possibly my first and last?
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Managed a few close ups of the DP using a digital camera.
Definitely going to let this Sativa dominant go a whole lot cloudier and maybe even a touch amber - but I do prefer a nice clear cerebral dominance so not too long.
Would anyone leave much longer than another week?
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I’d take it out as long as you possibly can & watch the resin pack on during the next couple of weeks. 
Try and wait for no new pistil formation if you can. (totally understand the urge AND the preference)…just think the yield increase will be worth the wait. A lot of those trichomes are just babies. 
Nice clear pics.
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Baby trichomes? Wow. Now I am intrigued to see what this turns into.
Given my last grows 20 years ago were pretty basic and never achieved much frosting I was pretty okay with this bit of snow.
I did manhandle the buds when I moved the scrog screen 3 weeks ago so wondered whether I’ve just smashed or prevented development of much resin / trichome growth.
Going to have another look this weekend.
An on going concern for me is making space for the photoperiod scrog.
The Gelato is responding well to the change to 12/12 and starting first flower sights.
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So… these USB scopes are tricky. Hope to gain some more skill in shooting close ups but here is the latest on the Durban Poison.
Most of the tric-heads are still clearer than thought although starting to show some general opacity.
pistils are still plentiful and only partially brown - they’re not yet retracting; though not certain i want to go as long as that anyway.
I think in a week tops they come out - various reasons probably trumping further time to ripen.
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