From what i can gather the two big white cannisters fit 2-3/8" x 10" sediment filters similar to these:
The clear canister I imagine is for a carbon filter and is the first stage in the filter process and then to 2 of those sediment filters…my question is what are the other two tiny cannisters? One doesnt open. The other opens but nothing is in it for a filter. Looks to be 10" long but less than 2-3/8" filters.
One is likely the membrane (I explicitly don’t see it your picture). There could also be a mineralizer. When used for drinking water to make the RO taste better.
Those sumps can be broken out off that header and re-piped to accommodate standard size sumps and cheaper/better filters but in the long run likely cheaper to replace the unit as a whole.
Best to know who made that system and order parts from them. Tech support from one of those places might be able to identify the proper replacement
It’s a guess. A generic RO unit will have pre-filters that feed into an RO membrane. For RO, you need the RO membrane otherwise the conglomeration is nothing more than a filter. So, one of those must be the membrane. Probably the larger piece. For the final piece, that could be a variety of things. Depending what it is, it could be either before or after the membrane. Mineralizers are fairly common for home under-the-sink RO units which would end-up after the membrane. A lot of this depends on the water quality. E.g. if you have high iron content, you might have an iron filter in there which would go before the membrane.
Are there any part numbers printed on those things?
Membranes do need to be replaced from time to time and they are usually the most expensive component. As Herbies notes, for these small units, sometimes it’s cheaper to just replace the whole shebang.
FWIW, you can pretty much build your own and probably end-up with something that has a greater flow throughput. Despite sounding complicated, the non-recirculating RO is straight forward to piece together. Also, the larger the membrane, the faster the flow particularly if there is no pre-booster.
I ordered the unit from Purewaterclub and their customer support is shoddy at best.
I think I found what I need.
Ive had issues day 1 with this filter. Leaks on the clear canister. Could literally see water being pushed through the threads. I decided I didnt need RO and its been sitting since.
I looked closer at the photo, most certainly the piece with the ‘flow’ check value is the membrane. Once of the two outlets is the waste, the other is the RO output.
No, you don’t need to replace it every time. But it does need to be replaced from time to time … when the flow goes down. Much of this depends on the ratio of RO to waste and the how good the pre-filtering is.
A friend had passed over the summer and ive been keeping up with his orchids until they are donated. His 100gpd unit is spitting out 5gpd. I was going to get a set of filters for my 50gpd unit and bring it by.
My small white sealed canister has two points or sealed ends. The carbon final filter in that picture just has a cap. I wonder if its a DI filter since that has two caps
I am an expert in this field as I have been doing water treatment for 20yrs.
The color of the filter housing means nothing but the order of filter types in very important.
Your 1st filter should be a sediment ( 5 micron) 2nd filter should be standard carbon filter ( usually carbon paper) 3rd filter should be a carbon block.
The 4th filter is the larger tube thats the membrane and the small tube is most likely a post carbon filter which is last in line.
The post filter is not necessarily. The only purpose of the post filter is to keep the water thats in the storage tank from tasting like the the storage tank.
All of the actual filters can be purchased at any lowes store pretty cheap except for the membrain. If $50 includes the membrane then yes thats a good price.
You should replace all filters every 12 mths EXCEPT for the membrane. The membrane should only be replaced every few years. You can check the membrane once a year by comparing it to the feed water. Your looking for 90% rejection so if your feed water tds 300 tds your product should be 30 tds or lower.
Thats correct…lowes you can buy the sediment, and paper carbon for about $8 each but the carbon block will prob be about $12 … not sure about the membrane as they can come in different sizes.
The membranes range in price from about $25 all the way up to $100
Also make sure that after its installed you empty out the storage tank 2x before using. There will be some carbon dust and the membranes come with vegetable oil or something similar to keep them from drying out.
80 gal? Thats freaking huge dude. Most residential ro systems come with a 3 gal storage tank. I use 9 gal storage tank. If your tank is really 80 gal then just let it fill to about 20gal then empty it out. Then you will be ready to roll
