Seed Quality

I had a client recently mention to me that the old addage of pale seeds being undesirable was not necessarily true. He shared with me a video produced by Dutch Passion, showing a germination test between 9 White “Think Different” seeds and 9 Dark “Think Different” seeds:

He was under the impression that an old wive’s tale had been dismissed, and that “white” seeds were perfectly fine to grow. I was inspired to write a bit of detail on seed processing and storage.

There are three types of “white” seeds:

  1. Those “White” Seeds which were Fully Matured and have had their Tiger Stripe seed coating removed from physical abrasion after harvest; such as from seed sorting or dry sieve tools.
  2. Those “White” Seeds which were never matured, and contain a frail under-developed embryo.
  3. Those White “Seeds” which are an empty husk; sterile, with no embryo inside.

The age-old lore of “don’t grow pale seeds” speaks to #2 and #3. In the case of this video, Dutch Passion has highlighted “White” Seed type #1: Fully ripened seeds which once were Dark at harvest when they had their Tiger Stripe seed coating–but have since had the seed coating worn away in the harvest/sifting/sorting/packaging process.

If Dutch Passion explained this, people would ask: Why are my seeds exposed to abrasion, and what is the consequence of purchasing seeds without a seed coating?

The answer is: Seeds without a coat will not store as long. It is simply a thin layer made of lipids, intended to help the seed overwinter in wet conditions. Seeds with a Tiger Stripe coating which is fully in-tact will store much longer than seeds with their Tiger Stripe coating removed from abrasion; ambient moisture from the air will penetrate the unprotected seed, and over time changes in humidity and temperature will affect the viability and vigor of the seed.

As well, seeds ripened outdoors in UV exposure and/or cold temperatures will develop a thicker layer of protective coating–a fatter seed coat. The seeds develop such thick seed coats that minor abrasion from harvest, handling, sifting, sorting, and packaging will not remove the seed coating. These seeds will store decades.

Dutch Passion gains advantage by creating this video: Customers who receive fully ripe matured seed that is perfectly vigorous and germinable will not pre-emptively gripe or inquire due to the apparent seed color. By showing their coatless white seeds germinating fine, it gives the impression that they are of equal value to dark seeds: for they have absorbed water and germinated more readily without a seed coat.

Dutch Passion may not gain advantage by explicitly explaining why the seeds are “white” in the first place. It would be akin to a car salesman telling you to “just ignore” the crack in the windshield and the scratches on the car, because it drives just fine and will get you to work. But the truth is: a cracked windshield and scratched paint job significantly de-value the car.

The “White” seeds pictured in this video are mature and healthy–but they were not ripened in an environment which favored strong protective coating, nor were they handled with care; they were machine processed, and as a result, many seeds will suffer reduced viability over time.

One way to avoid distribution of low-viability seed stock is to not pre-package your seeds. By individually packaging each seed order, the breeder can feel between his fingers on a seed-by-seed basis the integrity of the seed hull. Pre-packaged seeds which have had their seed coating removed, such as the ones sold by Dutch Passion, will not store well because of their vulnerability to atmospheric moisture. By time the customer purchases the seed, several may be compromised.

Further, the same machines which sort seeds and tumble dry sift cause small cracks in the seed from repeated impact in tumbling or sorting. These cracks are more than just abrasion–they may be microscopic fissures which allow moisture and air into the seed, lowering viability and vigor over time, while making it vulnerable to fungal attack.

The best way to grow seed is under direct unfiltered sunlight. Cooler temperatures and more humid conditions during flower–if your area permits–can help improve seed quality. However, high humidity can predispose the plant to fungal attack, and pathogens may become present on the seed; fungal hyphae may even penetrate and compromise some seeds.

The best way to store seed is in the bract. It is important to fully dry and cure the seeds while they are still inside the plant material, for a minimum of 2 weeks. As much as 6 weeks cure time will improve seed quality.

The best way to harvest dried cured seed is by hand-rubbing closely over a sieve tilted at a 33 degree angle, in front of a fan. The angled sieve allows seed to roll to a collection point, while the plant material should be cleaned from the sieve regularly for 2nd sieving, as trichomes are collected below.

The best way to store seed is with silica gel beads as a dessicant. Purchase them bulk loose as beads in a jug, and in 10gram sealed packets.

For small quantities of seed to store short-term (less than 5 years), store the seed in air-tight plastic bags, adding roughly 5-10% of the total seed volume in silica beads.

For large quantities of seed to store long-term, place a 10gram or larger packet of silica beads into the bottom of a glass jar; using brown/green tinted or painted glass is best. To protect from light, you can spray paint the outside of jars black and line the inside with a ring of paper. Fill the jar with seed and vacuum seal the jar. Label with dates and quantities.

-Store jars inside cardboard boxes in a cool dry place with a stable temperature for approximately 10+ years.
-Deep freeze or refrigeration will preserve seed 15-20+ years; consider a dedicated freezer and backup generator; open the fridge or freezer seldomly.
-Bury seeds to 4’ to 6’ depth for 20-40+ years preservation; seal all exposed metal (the jar lids) in wax to prevent rust, wrap in thick cloth, and double-bag in a thick heavy duty moisture-proof plastic. Wrap the package with brightly colored 14 gauge electrical wire which leads to the surface. Drive a stake in the ground, wrap the wire around it, and label the wire coming out of the ground with a copper or aluminum orchard tag; engrave/write the label with deep textured letters that won’t fade in the coming decades. Seal the label with a waterproof coating, and place a stake to mark it.

Thanks so much for reading about seeds =) I’m a multi-lifelong cannabis steward and I think and feel it is important to intelligently handle and store cannabis seeds. I hope a few people find interest and understanding, and that some may adopt more careful cultural practices.

Take care now,

-Dr. Zinko
Seven Trees

25 Likes

They don’t look as pretty but fully mature pale seeds have comparable rates to dark ones.

Usually if they pass the crush test they’re good to go, IME.

7 Likes

back in 2003 I had a heavy indica plant that if you let get over done it would give some fake seeds

pale and like paper no nanners just fake seeds

be safe and be well

Dequilo

6 Likes

I’ve gotten a couple of those on occasion…no nanner anywhere just a few random “sorta seeds” that had nothing really to 'em…no inside.

Or like a few “baby seeds” like it was gonna make a few but never got around to it.

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