Should ec numbers from a slurry test be similar to runoff ec numbers?
Maybe I did my slurry wrong?
Slurry comes back crazy hi numbers and runoff crazy low.
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Means your plants are using all your nutrition or it’s within the soil. If there are no lockout issues, I’d say you’re good to go! Generally this is exactly what you want. Nutrient rich media that isn’t bleeding nutrients during runoff. If they matched it would mean as much is coming out as is in the media(overfed).
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no such luck. big deficiencies in 2 out of 4 plants and the other 2 are starting to do the same. getting close to the “let em finish ugly stage”.
day 57 autoflowers. trying to learn to use runoff to see if i have a lockout or if theyre just starving.
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If it’s coming out very very low then I’d say add some food for them. They still have like 4ish-5 weeks left then? I’d say you’re good for a general feed. What is your feed going in at and what’s the runoff coming out at?
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i feed a brewed terp tea. i also topdressed the same tea powder a week or so ago. no idea the ec or ppm going in. can you ppm and ph test teas??
i just figured a way to get runoff out of my sips with a hypodermic attached to a tube. runoff yesterday was at ec of .5 and about 275ppm and ph7 after giving just a half gallon of plain dechlorinated tap water phd to 6.
that seems like starvation, right? but a slurry test(maybe done incorrectly) came back like 8 or 9 ec and like 5000 ppm. i figured slurry and runoff numbers would be similar. if my soil was really that locked out my other 2 plants would look a bunch worse id think. so im feeding heavy tonight. bloom tea plus bloom booster tea plus recharge and molassas.
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Feed em up! That’s pretty low ppm in runoff. See how they respond after a day or two of stronger feeds. EC in the media can get pretty high mid flower. I’d definitely feed the right ones and depending on how close they look to done, the left can take food too, in my opinion.
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It look like most of the yellowing on the right side plants are more towards the top, I’d say it’s ur ph & also a lack of food but that could be do to Ph.
I’d Fix the PH first then see how it reacts, if ur slurry is that high I would be worried about burning it, organic fertilizer I believe takes longer to work its way out the pot - so a run off test is not really reliable when using organic amendments.
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i dont have a big idea either of what exactly it is and i trust thees guys judgement more than mine almost. but i do agree probably PH and maybe if you flush with PHed water they will perk up too. If its too much nutes , give em PHed water and then re feed after maybe. towards the end of flowering like that its hard to get more nutes in the plant, id go water only and just come back stronger with the next 1s. its hard to tell, but they look almost done? Flush em out good and see what u get? idk
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Invest in a Hanna soil ec probe. The dist 5 i believe it’s called. Also a Hanna soil ph meter.
Should be able ti grab the pair for around 200-260 on-line
Hanna HI98331 direct to soil ec meter (old body was the rectangular blue waterproof body that they used across many lines, new form factor is the triangle head, thier “gro-line” can be found for $80-$120 (buying This meter used is safe, mines been in a drawer for 22 year’s and just put batteries in it, went to calibrate it with 1431us solution, it read 1.42 ec (perfect, didn’t even drift)
The soil pH probe -HI981030- has 0.05% accuracy, can be had from htg supply for $106. This meter is not One you buy used3, as the wet bulb needs stored properly.
Avoid Blue Lab meters, they’re trash and accuracy is not a tight resolution.
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Hanah huh? I’m pretty loyal to my blulab stuff. I have the ph pen and the truncheon for hydro. I’ll look into hanah i know they’been around for a while.
They still have 2 weeks left on most.all of them at least. And yea I’ll chalk it up to learning experience. Now I’m fired up to pop the same 4 strains again and do em justice this time
@BudLarfy
When it comes to testing meter’s, Hanna is the King hands down.
Blue Lab soil pH meters are highly inaccurate as are the apera.
When you go to real labs and important manufacturing places, the meter’s in use are Hanna across the board.
I got meter’s from Hanna (PhEP 4 and PhEP 5) that were bought in 2008. Stored since 2013. Took em out to use. Soaked the probes for 10 hours. They took Thier automatic 2 point calibration almost instantly like when new.
Had a hanna gro-line 9841 combo EC pH meters.
Has s self diagnostics probe evaluation mode. Bought this used on eBay for $60. Self check said probe was cooked, no bars (there’s like 6 bars like a wifi signal meter, giving you probe condition, if it’s got none and 4 reference solution reads over 50ms,its needing replacement
Cleaned it with Thier cleaners, soaked for 2 days, recalibrated it to 2 point (7 & 4) and i got full bars And reference reads 30ms.
As long as Hanna is maintained they’ll literally give decade’s of accurate use
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Ok I think you sold me.
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You needing pH or ec. Solution or soil probes?
If i have what you need in extra, it’s yours. Pay me shipping after receiving it.
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That’s super generous there holmes. I need to wrap my arms around soul ph. I was good with hydro and have all the ph and ec pens I need. Bluelab truncheon also. They’ve served me well for rdwc. But dirt farming is like witchcraft.
That’s very generous holmes! I wouldn’t want you to send your back up pen. I will shop hanah for soil ph probes. Probably cheaper than bluelab. Super thoughtful but too expensive of a gift to accept.
I’ll make it easy for you when it comes to soil pH.
There’s nothing you can do to correct so that’s not buffering pH where it needs to be.
If your soil isn’t correcting pH now I’m talking like soil that’s built with compost and amendments and shit like soilless mix is not considered soil it just has a different CEC of hydro. But it’s not going to buffer things properly and yet controlling your input solution pH can help buffer the feeding until the next watering.
But in organic soil if your soil is not buffering and setting the pH there ain’t shit you can do having a reading having a number it’s just going to rub it in your face.
But I’ve never really came across a organic built soil that I even needed to check I’m talking like years like I have these soil pens that I don’t even fucking use I’ve never had to use one. Now the EC pen I do like to check that.
But if you build yourself a good organic soil and feed it good vegan bottled nutes or it’s built to where it’s just water and keys only you ain’t got to check a damn thing. If you’re feeding it synthetic yeah you got to try to come in low so it goes high and all that weird circle of hell
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I used roots lush soil and their terp tea line of ferts. Was my first try with both. I always heard organics don’t need ph adjustments.
So when I started seeing a deficiency the only tools in my bag are either feed more, feed less, or check the ph.
Runoff ph was never much higher than 7 but they just went straight downhill. All except for one and that one was stunted early.
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Lush is the base i use for mixing build a soil 3.0 mix.
I mix it a lil less than they say about 3/5ths the recommended mix.
But i use lush straight to germinate and early Veg.
So the thing with organic soil, you need ro Water, but still need to buffer it with calmag. I found that the organic Cal mag (roots and general organics) just don’t do the trick.
I use 2.2 ml per gallon of GH Cali magic. That tiny bit of salts (0.2 ec) isn’t going to harm nothing.
But chloromine in the water will.
And the ONLY’ filters that will remove chlorine is a reverse osmosis with the carbon block replaced with a kdf85 catalytic biological carbon block.
If you’ve done all these things mentioned above then we gotta dive deeper into it.
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Also be wary of plastics that are pvc that arebt NSF certified and any plastics with phthalates in it. It’ll mimic over under fert with such a Small margin it’ll have you chasing your tail