I’ve got that one Amazon wireless one that everyone has. The AC Infinity sensor. My Heat mat sensor (Same type of silver tip as the AC Infinity one), and a random wireless digital thermometer. Nothing analog.
Every single one of them is reading at least 4° higher than the AC Infinity so it makes me wonder if it’s calibration is off because they are all in pretty much the same location in the tent.
Hatf to to tell though it doesn’t feel 80 in there with my hand… gonna have to assume the 3 are closer to real tell than ac infinity…
Is there a better way to calibrate it other than comparing it to other thermometers that I’m not thinking of?
I’m looking at leaf temp thermometers right now on Amazon
I don’t use a heating mat past 1 week, usually sooner, as soon as I transplant from a starter plug or solo cup or whatever I’m using. Sometimes never in the case of a raised bed (in one tent).
If the temperature is much different on the tent floor vs the soil line, I know my oscillating tent fans and mulch aren’t doing a good job, or there is not enough soil microbiology composting the soil, and I reposition my heater, fans, or amend my soil.
Yeah, I’ll take a look when I transplant. I know the roots are pretty wound up in there. I can’t really dig more than maybe an inch without hitting root ball on the bigger one…
So far everything is pointing to high VPD/Lightburn when they were seedlings. Now that I’ve taken the light up a few inches the plants are loosening up, and I can see the visible burn on their leaves… They still feel like sandpaper But the new growth doesn’t
That difference doesn’t really make sense to measure. There isn’t really a temperature to go by for the canopy, as it depends on the spectrum distribution of the light I am using, and how close they are to the canopy. For the canopy, you should follow VPD, taking into cosideration LTO (leaf temperature offset), rather than air temperature. For the soil in an organic soil grow, there should be microbiology for the rhyzosphere to be efficient. If you dig your hand in the soil and it doesn’t feel hotter down deep, there probably isn’t much active bacteria working on the soil for you.
The reason for me suggesting this is being comfirmed by the root mass you speak of it could be binding up due to poor drainage
Iv see this happens in smaller pots how long have they been in there
There are many ways to grow though, soil medium-wise. I practice no-till organic living soil gardening techniques. Basically “feed the soil, not the plant”. Most of the nutrition my plants receive comes from the soil recipe from the very beginning, relying on soil microbiology (bacteria and fungi) to feed the plants. Very occasionally will I top dress or drench with a tea.
So, basically don’t listen to me or anyone else, if it’s not how you want to grow in soil
Just taking it all in and learning as I go. I don’t even know if I want to do organic yet. That’s just what I went with for this run because I was just figuring everything else out.
I might Google later to see if there’s anything I can add to the ocean Forest mix to make it better for cannabis, but it was probably the best option I had at the time. Now that the light is better placed, the germination mix seems fine… I’m pretty sure the plants have just been stressed out by the light the most part.
I’m leaning toward mixing my own organic mix for my next grow, but we’ll see.
Yeah, I’ll take a look @Papalag - When I water them, the water pretty much instantly starts draining through the bottom so it seems to be draining pretty well. It dries out very fast And I can see it through the bottom a little bit, it’s definitely drying out thoroughly. The roots are poking through and look healthy… fuzzy and white.
Working on another heat source option. I can crank the humidity up and down easily with this humidifier, but with the lights only at 50% I can’t really get it above 75 right now. Once the plants fill out and I get the lights up to full power, I think the temps will be pretty on point… Might need a little supplemental heat… though I like to run as little wattage as possible
Yeah, not using it yet. Waiting till I see the sex before I moved to the nuted soil… should be any day on a couple… did some reading last night and I’m gonna add some perlite to it but nothing else.
These things work surprisingly well for heat.
Need to figure out some intricate timer for it though, because it doesn’t need to stay on very long… I could run it through the AC controller I guess
Bear in mind that infrared, while not visible to humans, is still light. Not only that, but plants respond to it very well. Far-red, infra-red, and surprisingly, green, all have one thing in common: they are the only wavelengths that can easily penetrate the leaf surfaces, hitting leaves down below. But, it should be used sparingly, and under the right phase of growth, as it also promotes apical growth and flowering. Basically, using too much red light in vegetative growth may result in drastically different results. Dr. Bruce Bugbee and his colleagues have some interesting papers and talks on this subject. Blue light, for example, promotes cell density, resulting in shorter internodal distance.
Attempting to clone the first top… I dunno… it took me a month and a PAR meter to get my lights and VPD set right… I had to back them up a couple feet to get it down to around 400sh for early veg. They took a beating but pulled through.
These plants would probably be about twice as big … but we are learning LED for the first at time. Boring stuff I know… just logging.
For faster growth and to prevent stunted growth, consider up-potting. Starting in a solo cup is a good first step. It is harder to maintain a consistent microbiology in the rhyzosphere with such a pot for starting, unless you are confident in your soil recipe and watering techniques. I usually up-pot 2 or 3 times into the final home to promote rapid root growth. More root is more fruit.
it’s worth a look
