They had none of the same size timbers in b and q as wickes. So I scrapped the 18 x 92mm faces and replaced with 11x92mm. For the frame face boards.
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That’s fast progress bro 
that driver @Gaz29 is contributing should work if you turn the current right down and connect the cobs in parallel eh. Think it puts out just over 3A at min which will still max out the cobs but the fan cooling should deal with the heat 
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That all sounds too tricky. I’ll end up blowing it up. I don’t want to seem ungrateful @Gaz29 but I’m gonna swerve it. I remember why I started using constant current drivers in the first place. There’s one on eBay at 57 quid I’ll just wait till I can afford it and get it.
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Here you go bro, 150w should be loads in there and this one will let you use that pot you fitted eh.
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/HLG-120H-C700B?qs=%252bmCJZPMmHFMz0p7%252bjcolCQ%3D%3D
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It won’t actually push 150w though bro. 36 x 4 =144
144 x 0.7 = 100.8w
That’s why I was looking at the 1050s
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Isn’t the b driver dimmable? I need one that pushes 120w and that seems to meet my needs 
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A and B are dimmable bro. Is it for strips or cobs. That would dictate the voltage and whether you need CC or CV
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OK I’m lost. Constant current and constant voltage?? I’m a roofer not a sparky 
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Constant current maintains as it says a constant current. I wish to use 1050ma on this build but usually use the 700ma drivers @Albannach suggested before for cobs.
Cobs run on 36v
Strips on 24v
Strips are wired in parallel
Cobs (preferably by me anyway) are wired in series.
If you’re meaning for your strip build and you wish to run 120w on them I would recommend
A meanwell HLG120H24A. If you’re happy to wire an external potentiometer then a B would be the one
Constant voltage maintains a constant voltage like the driver @gaz29 has is 36v constantly but fluctuates the current to maintain that voltage
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I’m just trying to understand the difference in the drivers and why they are different. No nothing to do with the strips. I understand amp and voltage but this stuff is all “newish” to me.
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There’s plenty of info about if you have a dig around bro.
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https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Ironmongery/d170/Night+Latches/sd3221/Traditional+Nightlatch/p63968
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Yep I got ya. Correct me if I’m wrong though but doesn’t the cable gauge effect the current? Resistance and all that complicated stuff. 
ignore me. I’ll do some reading me thinks
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Long lengths of wire etc can cause voltage drop along the way. (I think my soldered tails loom deals with that about as effectively as possible) off you pop down the rabbit hole for reading There’s no going back now 
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I may be gone a while.
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Looking really nice.
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@Esrgood4u my b and q receipt from yesterday and nowhere near yet lol. (Just so you know your donation went where it should) 
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Cheers bro. Should be able to get a bit more done today. At least some of the sides. (3 of them)
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No need to prove stuff to me mate. I’m just pleased I could help a little to push your build forwards. Your an honest bloke and you’ve never let me down with anything so…
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