That sounds good to me; I would recommend removing any possible runoff after watering that may be reabsorbed by the plants if the containers are sitting in tubs, trays, or saucers. That way if there is anything in there that the plants don’t like, it won’t get taken back up into the root zone. Much love
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Don’t worry, I noticed that, seems we are getting some conclusions, that’s the most interesting thing … 
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Phosphorous excess in the latest feedings (as @Sbeanonnamellow pointed) may have blocked it?
Possibly. Usually an excess of Ca or Mg is the culprit when it comes to K deficiencies. Also, if the OPs soil is pre amended, flushing will cause more nutrients to be released making the problem worse.
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Here’s the measurements!
So it’s safe to rule out nute lockout?
Edit: the rain water(sat in open jug) pre check ph was 6.8
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Are you letting them dry out some between waterings?
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@SeymourGreen i think I agree with you that it’s a combination of both. So now it’s apparent we don’t have lockout issue(hopefully) I just need to hammer them with a higher ppm of a nute solution?
@Heritagefarms i water every other day with these. My temps run at 88-90(live in the south and it’s a shed grow) so water disappears quickly. Tho I don’t wait for bone dry between watering, pots still have a hint of weight
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Sounds good I always ask because I find a lot of people drown there plants and create all kinds of problems. sometimes to heavy of soil will create root zone oxygen problems even with proper watering that will cause nutrient problems regardless of the perfect ph or nutrient levels. I’ve seen bag soil I thought looked great based on the numbers and ingredients dam near kill plants especially the stuff from local hardware stores.
My tried and true method involves having to much to do and there fore if I see issues I know it’s under feeding or watering and not the other way around , easy to fix also.
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Strange, I always thought flushing just wiped out nutes 
, after all that time and with a 361 ppm as runoff I don’t think there’s much left. If we discard nutrient lockout maybe she is just hungry with proper deficiencies …
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I agree. Seems low but, didn’t OP say problems started after he initially fed them?
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After rereading. I would say that they are hungry and most likely not adjusting the Ph made the nutes unavailable. I would try feeding them at 1/2 strength again but, adjusting to a proper pH value.
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I know soil will usually buffer pH to an acceptable range but those look like small pots correct?
@Heritagefarms. Tips pleases lol! I’m just starting to get back into soil growing myself, after a few years running dtw coco and mixing salts. My biggest issue so far is having less to do lol!
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@Heritagefarms you bring up a solid point, this soil looked good and is thick, but noticed there’s NO perlite in it and seems, thick I guess to say. My seedlings are loving it tho, maybe the autos just don’t like it!
@SeymourGreen one thing I did NOT do was check the ph AFTER adding to the water! I just did that and checked PH with these nutes and the ph went down to 5.7! Holy cow I did not know it made that big of a change! So I guess I just need to flush and then add wood ash or lime to the water with the nutes then start a 1/2 strength feeding?
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In case he is using now Advanced Nutrients pH perfect (as I do), there’s no need to correct the pH. Doing so is like chasing shadows and that can bring problems too …
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I would just use something like earth crystals pH up or down.
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Indoors Fox farms ocean forest works great for me , in regards to nutrients I use general organics and mix in soil amendments plus the occasional cal mag feeding. Also occasional applications of t.harzianum works wonders on mother’s , clones and seeds.
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Awesome thanks for all the information and your most valuable inputs! I’m going to see if my local store has fox farm in yet and either repot or top dress then add some nutrients and see if that helps. Even my new seedlings in the same soil are starting to yellow up! I’m convinced it’s the soil. Seedlings only been watered with half strength nutes one time, they shouldn’t be turning color this soon.
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Really enjoyed coming back to this thread today and seeing the progress. Such a wonderful, kind, and helpful community here. @Heritagefarms with the good eye on the soil! That’s whatsup dude. I totally agree with the Ocean Forest and sometimes mix it up with some Happy Frog to spread the aquatic mineral rich love.
@SeymourGreen I was listening to a podcast last night and they (Advancing Eco Agriculture) were talking about trace minerals and how important they are and how their imbalances are often misdiagnosed as other things. Basically to start there. I thought that was interesting, and at the end there was a listeners question asking about trace mineral toxicity and the conversation shifted to molybdenum and it’s relationship with nitrogen. They also touched on the relationship between boron and calcium, how a toxicity of boron would present itself as a calcium deficiency. What was fascinating to me is what the dude said next, he said that you could address the imbalance from either side. That they’re essentially the same thing.
Either provide less of the mineral that’s overabundant or supplement the nutrient it’s adversely affecting. More calcium, for example. Does it really just come down to ratios at some point? Admittedly, this is all a little over my head, and I’m trying to learn, so most of all I don’t want to unknowingly spread bad information. I appreciate the conversation.
@Dalorean 361ppm runoff seems really low and they’re flowering a bit now, I think they’re pretty hungry too. If you get the seedlings repotted in a quality bagged soil I think the plants will rebound fine. Literature would suggest that bottled liquid style chelated nutrient applications would work the quickest because of their supposed bioavailability compared to non-chelated forms. I think it’s true too. Wishing you the best with your plants.
J.C. Stitch in the Garden Saver for Healthy Plants says molybdenum plays a critical role in converting nitrates to ammonia which is required for protein production.
Much love
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@Sbeanonnamellow you are so right, the people here are WONDERFUL! No one needs to go this far out of their way to help out a complete stranger on the other side of the world, this site encapsulates the absolute best of humanity, and shows how amazing this world could be when people don’t see color, political views, etc…we simply see best friends who share one of the best hobby’s on earth and embrace the love😊
I’ll post an update on the girls in a week or so with this knowledge gathered here and see what happens! Have a blessed day everyone!
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@Sbeanonnamellow. When it comes to hydroponic growing and mixing raw salts, ratios are everything in order to avoid antagonization of certain elements like you describe. They are also important in soil growing but, obviously have less control unless your adding your own amendments. I started messing around with salts so I can have more control over the actual elemental ratios the plants receive. My quest is for perfect elemental nutrition and high brix, with raw salt synthetic nutrients and maybe the occasional compost tea, to see if that don’t boost terp production.
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I’m totally on the high brix highway! A buddy was battling some mites a few months ago and was doing the occasional Neem + Dr Bronners peppermint oil soap spray. It would knock them down but application’s weren’t routine enough and the mites persisted with their larvae picking up the slack when the adults were knocked down.
All of a sudden the mites are gone and buddy is like, yeah those couple of sprays must have done it; but I don’t think it’s that. Around the same time he mentioned being stoked on some healthy new growth after adding some new supplements to the nutrient regime. Turns out, he was low on nutrients and the plants were struggling. I don’t think it’s a coincidence that’s when the mites came and they left around the same time the plants for back to being fed adequately. They sought out the weaker and dying plants. The decaying plant material is their food, where high brix healthy plant material is supposedly not their food!
I’m saving up for a brix refractometer and can’t believe I’ve slept on having one and being interested in it for so long. And I’ve heard of brix before, another friend used to always talk about high brix plants but it was just in one ear and out the other. Do you foliar feed much? Those podcasts I’ve been listening to are all about foliar feeding and chelated nutrients. They talk about how efficient plants touch on all things, even lighting. We can have the best lighting but if the plant has one tiny missing link, a trace mineral perhaps, it can be all the difference in that plant being able to use all of the available photons. What do you think about Botanicare products? That’s what I’ve been pointed towards. Much love
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