received my trehalose today, msg asi no moto also here only the chitosan takes a bit longer bu will start today with the 2 that i have
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Good luck, I hope this works out well for you.
I know it will be a while before you see any results.
If you have the time, please report back any findings you are able to. 
Shag
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This stuff might go well in a compost tea, instead of the small amount of molasses I use. Compost tea, not much in it. Not a nutrient tea.
I’ll check Microbe Mans thread as some stuff kills everything fast.
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Trehalose should be fine, but check it out to be sure.
Not sure Microbeman will mention Trehalose.
He should be aware of it though, I learned of it through a mutual friend of ours.
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@shag Yes i will and im doing test grows in between hplvd, and in my recicled mapito media ( 3 years of dead roots in it ) infected recirculating tank ect ect
I did not find any study about that ( how to beat the hplvd systems)
And i realy appreciate the help and tips of @shag when he heard that i lost everything due to hplvd 
I can pick the easy way and just start from scratch and that was it or take the time and effort to study this shit and know in futer how to deal with it
Just my 2 cents
I am not sure I mentioned this before but standard H2O2 is not the best choice for disinfection of a virus.
We need to use bleach or hypochlorous acid to soak scissors ect. to prevent the spread.
I am not sure it is a guarantee that it will kill all viruses, but this may be the best choice we have.
I feel iso alcohol is another good choice for this 90% would work best.
from the web…
To prevent the spread of cannabis viruses and other diseases, it’s important to practice good sanitation practices and disinfect your tools regularly. One effective way to disinfect tools is to soak them in a solution of 70% isopropyl alcohol for at least 30 seconds. This concentration of alcohol is effective at killing many types of viruses and other pathogens.
Another effective disinfectant is a solution of 10% bleach (sodium hypochlorite) diluted in water. Soak your tools in this solution for at least 30 seconds before rinsing them thoroughly with clean water and allowing them to air dry.
It’s important to note that some disinfectants can damage or corrode certain types of tools, so it’s important to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for cleaning and maintenance. In addition to disinfecting your tools, it’s also important to avoid sharing tools or equipment between plants and to practice good hygiene, such as washing your hands thoroughly before and after handling your cannabis plants.
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I use bleach on tools an each mum its own tools
I use a stabilized 50% h2o2 that they use in hydro systems here in holland
Someone that works in under glass agriculture her in holland recomended to run x ppm of it in my recirc tank ( viroids does not have a protein… ) so this h2o2 will destroy it with all kind of bacteria ect ect so it will prevent it from spreading through my water
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Interesting, thank you for sharing that info.
Maybe I was wrong, H2O2 is not a bad choice after all. 
I feel this line of thinking that H2O2 is ineffective may come from the fact that H2O2 breaks down very quickly, therefore an old product may become ineffective at killing viruses.
So it should be said, that if you choose H2O2 it should be stabilized or it should at least be very fresh, this may prove difficult to verify unless you make your own.
I found this…
To effectively kill viruses in a hydroponic system using stabilized 50% H2O2, it’s recommended to use a dilution of 1-2% (5-10 mL per liter of water). This concentration should be allowed to circulate through the system for at least 30 minutes to ensure that all surfaces are adequately disinfected.
I think hypochlorous acid is another good choice for hydro, but I have not yet used it.
Now I know someone will ask this question so here is the answer…
The main difference between stabilized hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and regular hydrogen peroxide is their chemical stability and shelf life.
Regular hydrogen peroxide is an unstable compound that breaks down into water and oxygen over time, especially when exposed to light and heat. This means that regular H2O2 has a relatively short shelf life and needs to be stored in a cool, dark place to prevent it from breaking down too quickly.
Stabilized hydrogen peroxide, on the other hand, is a more stable form of H2O2 that has been treated with stabilizing agents to slow down its decomposition. This increases its shelf life and makes it more practical for commercial and industrial use.
In addition to their chemical stability and shelf life, stabilized hydrogen peroxide may also have a higher concentration of H2O2 than regular H2O2. This can make it more effective as a disinfectant or oxidizing agent.
Overall, stabilized hydrogen peroxide is a more stable and long-lasting form of hydrogen peroxide that is often used in industrial, agricultural, and commercial applications where a reliable, long-lasting source of H2O2 is required.
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Yes the one i use is stabilized with silver and that also have anti virus and bacterial properties 
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Yea, pretty slick. 
Who did some foliar spray with trehalose?
I did a spray with trehalose and msg
No neg affects only saw that the leaves changed color to more milky matt green color and the seedlings are not streching but thicker stem (compacter plants)
I sprayed on 2 weeks old seedling direct 12/12 from seed
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So i will test this also as a cheap natural non toxic pgr to stop reduce stretch in strechy plants
growing_compact_plants_by_altering_carbohydrate_m-groen_kennisnet_393834.pdf
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Thank you for posting your findings.
Very cool info there @tamimes
Keep us posted with your progress if you could. 
Ppppffffff finally received my chitosan it is 99% pure labgrade ordered it here in the Netherlands but it took so long because it had to come from japan😱
Tomorrow will be my first spray will keep an update
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Treating plants with trehalose inhibits the transformation of T6P into trehalose, leading to an increase of T6P level which will inhibit starch degradation in source leaves.
As it is known that, the starch accumulation is a result of starch biosynthesis and degradation, the reduced starch degradation will result in a higher starch level at the end of day by spraying trehalose in the daytime.
Therefore, more carbohydrates will be stored as starch and less carbohydrates will be used for soluble sugar synthesis. As a result, there will be less sugar available for
growth.
Furthermore, it will also activate SnRK1 and inhibit growth through sugar signal pathway.
3 concentrations of solution were used in this treatment, which were 40, 20
and 10mmol/ L.
20 mM Trehalose spraying treatment:
Trehalose spray (Tuesday & Friday of every week, 2*4=8 times in total)
Week 1 : 5ml/40plants 10mM solution
Week 2 : 10ml/40plants 10mM solution
Week 3&4 : 10ml/40plants 20mM solution
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Need help with some calculation
So trehalose is 342.296 g/mol
So what is 10mMol solution in grams / liter??
@shag do you know someone that can help with the formulation of this calculation " for a simple brain to understand"
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Let me give this a shot…
The molar mass of trehalose is 342.3 g/mol. rounded up.
To convert this to mg/mol, we multiply by 1000, giving 342300 mg/mol.
Therefore, 1 mol of trehalose contains 342300 mg.
And a 1 mol solution of trehalose is equivalent to 342300 mg/L.
Now we need to divide that by 1000 to get mM’s
We find that 1 millimole or 1 mM of trehalose is equivalent to 342.30 mg/L.
But
We need 10 mM per liter.
So multiply that by 10 and you should get 3423.0 mg/l
Or
10 mM of trehalose = 3.423 grams of trehalose per liter.
That should be right.
I am not the best at math so if anyone wants to double check my math, I am not opposed.
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Good info shag!
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FYI
That is a pretty dam strong solution.
You are carving a new path here, might I suggest you go slowly and test this on a few plants before you spray the whole bunch?
We are kinda in uncharted territory, so we need to tread lightly.
For reference, 10mM is about 3500ppm. 
Pretty dam strong…
I fear this may leave a residue on the leaves.
This may or may not need to be washed off.
It should wash off very easily and in fact, act like another smaller application was made increasing absorption.
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