Cool cool cool thank you!
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Tell you what I think; it annoys the fuck out of me.
Do you have anything in flower right now, with buds, with any “bud leaves” that come from within a bud, with purple/red petiole? Try and break it off right at the node (inside the bud) by pull it downward while supporting the rest of the stalk (so you don’t break it!).
I think it was @Dirt_Wizard who I mentioned this too a while back and he also thought it was noteworthy, and said he notices the same thing.
A purple/red petiole on a bud leaf will be perfectly green on the section that was inside the bud, completely hidden from direct light.
Also, find a nice piece of green growth (herbaceous), and try gently bending and manipulating it - it should be very supple. Try that with some purple growth, it’s hard and woody, not supple - not ideal for cloning. So I think this is actually an *issue.
Damn, that’s cold water.
They changed their binder (it used to be lime based I think).
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So the thought is too much light? What’s the practical impact on my plants? I’ll be the first to admit that I’m pounding the shit out of them, both with light and nutes the last several grows.
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Or at least that direct light could be a key part of it? Whether is the spectrum, intensity, technology/type (led), or something, I don’t know.
I don’t know. I wish I did.
What level of light pounding are they receiving? Just curious. Whether it’s “too much” or “too little” (or otherwise) I think would depend on the other conditions.
I haven’t checked ppfd in a week or so, because I have to carry a laptop to the room and connect apogee sensor (unless I want inaccurate results with the photone app).
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Corners are getting about 800ppfd and around 1100 towards the center. LED bar lights w/301b’s, running at 455w in a 4x4, about 10-12” above canopy. C02 averages 600. I know I could keep my plants prettier under less light but anecdotally the flowers seem stronger the more ppfd I give them, which makes sense too. I just need to find the balance 
.
I suspect C02 is my limiting factor, at least at the pace I’m pushing them.
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D39 of 12/12. You can see some of my leaf issues.
Jew Gold. Growing fairly light green despite the nutrient load. The buds have a nice … wait for it … golden hue to them.
Durban. Can’t tell much yet
Romulan. Greasy and pine/lemon. Edit: spot the nanner. Hmmmm
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I ran around 800ppm co2 last run. Massive buds.
I think wolverinegrown420 (or grower?) said a good “generic” thing to do was match the co2 ppm with the light ppfd.
I mostly just want the benefits of the sealed room, even if the co2 was just “atmospheric” levels (400-500). But I like 800 ish as a good, efficient use of co2 (I’m using a burner).
Edit: First plant pic of yours above looks really nice.
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I’ve always heard co2 level + 200 = a good ppfd#.
I need to get a controller that allows me to dim in 1% increments. That’s the one thing I dislike about my light, the 20% dimming increments. The ACI controller won’t work b3cause of the “tunable spectrum” feature of the light.
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D46 of 12/12, so it’s Week 7, Day 4.
Full tent shot. I’m riding them hard but they pretty much keep showing up every day.
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I recently checked my ppfd with my apogee. It was higher than necessary, I think (photone app is a liar). I was able to dial back both my lights/canopies from 90% to 75% (on the trolmaster).
Showing up?
Have you ever done a cost (per liter or cubic foot) for rockwool in it’s block or slab format? I’m gonna try at some point and compare to coco (canna coco dry bricks). Because I cut my coco with perlite and I really dislike perlite. Coco gets a little messy too, but perlite is the worst.
Looking good, man.
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I’ve not spent the money on that yet. My pulse pro and Photone app are close to each other, but I mostly rely on the par map published on a test site.
Just being a smartass, I half expect to see them fried some morning.
I purchase by the “case” and my standard starter block into a 4x4 onto a UniSlab is about $8.50 per plant. So it’s not cheap and it makes at least try to be selective before I commit to a UniSlab. Full slabs are probably 75% of that cost, but in my mind only make sense for mono crops/clones. Hugos don’t have enough overnight capacity for the size of plants I grow.
For my 4x4 tent it costs me about $75 per run for Rockwool, by the time I cull stuff, etc.
Thanks!
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Looking great dude!
Is that a rockwool cube on its side down in the bottom left of this pic? is there a story there…? drain-hole tek part II?
How large was the difference between the meters? What type of phone/paper diffuser?
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Ha. Can’t remember but I think it turned out male, so I chopped it down and stuck the Jew Gold 74 in there - which was 2 weeks behind. So I needed to raise up the JG in height somehow 
. The old block hasn’t turned skunky or moldy either. As with much of my shit, just me being lazy and not recommended.
I use whatever lb paper they now recommend but I’d have to look. My PulsePro measured within 5% of Photone , but I can’t remember which way. Once I saw that I never felt much need to use it that way again.
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How are you irrigating now, still using an rv/diaphragm pump? If so, you using that accumulator tank still, and do you have that “air/pressure” relief valve thing in your system, like floraflex offers too?
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Yep still using the pressurized system with the diaphragm pump and the pressure/accumulator tank.
I don’t use an in-line pressure regulator, I just modify the pressures on the pump and the accumulator tank down to something that seems “reasonable” (to me at least). I’m running about 25-30 psi I think. That seems to give me good pressure at each dripper (which are also pressure compensated) and, knock on wood, I haven’t blown apart any piping yet.
You setting up a new system?
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Just to be clear, I was referring to this, but forgot the correct name: Air Bleeder Valve:
That’s just a floraflex brand one. They come in other brands.
You have an inline gauge? I think I picked up a gauge, but not a regulator.
Not sure. I have more than half the supplies. I also don’t want high pressure stuff blowing hoses off or anything. Haha.
I think I’d want/need, an inline pressure regulator, an air bleed valve, and maybe an adapter or two (for pipe/hose).
Still unsure if I need the accumulator tank. The setup I initially was going to copy didn’t use one. They used a “T” fitting just after the pump, with a ball valve and a small section of pvc pipe that directed back into the res. They would use the ball valve to “bleed off” enough of the pressure so that the pump would stay on enough and not cut off, or cycle in a weird way - something to that effect.
It’s been a while.
So yours works and is setup properly, it sounds like, with an accumulator tank. So the system just keeps and holds that pressure (eg: 25psi?), or how does that work. These pumps cut off at a certain pressure, holding the system at that pressure, and then turn on when the pressure drops below (like when someone turns on a faucet in an rv installation)…
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Nah, I don’t have an air bleeder valve on my system. I’ve never had an airlock, guess I’ve never really thought about it.
I don’t have an in-line gauge either. The accumulator tank has an air valve on it and I can use a tire air gauge if I need to get an estimate of the pressure. (haven’t checked it since I set it up). Without the tank it was a constant “clunk clunk” when the drippers were going as the pump was constantly trying to restore pressure. Now it’s one clunk about every 10 seconds and the accumulator tanks handles the pressure the other 9 seconds.
Yeah, my system holds pressure all the time. That’s only possible because of the electronically actuated valves . When Growlink initiates a watering event, it sends a 24v DC signal to the valve, which latches it open. So that’s akin to opening the faucet in your analogy. Kill the electrical signal to the valve, it closes, and the system repressurizes until next time. Turning off the faucet.
I ran a non pressurized, on-demand type system for years and that always worked fine too. The only real benefit to pressurized system and valves at my small scale is the ability to independently irrigate different plants/sections of your grow using only one pump, etc.
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Hmm. Interesting. The system I was going to copy, long ago, did not use a solenoid valve at all. I would think it just used a timer for the pump, on the ac side, and maybe the pump would have to reach pressure or near pressure during each irrigation or something.
So when this valve is closed/not energized, the sections before and after the solenoid are still “at pressure”. Between pump and valve are at whatever pressure the pump is set to cut off at/maintain. And between the valve and the drip emitters are at whatever pressure is just below the “emitting” pressure that the emitters are rated at…basically? Is that right?
And, if I wanted to do this, timed - not growlink or sensor based, with trolmaster and a program timer (or one I have that does 12V) I could use something like this in the irrigation line (poly tubing), after the pump?:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0CSFK7YHT/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?s=hi&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw
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If you are using a submersible pond pump, then you just need to make sure it’s rated pressure is in the operating psi range of your drippers. When the pump shuts off, the water in your lines just drains back through the pump into your sump (unless you use a check valve then it’ll stay in your lines but it’s not really pressurized).
Yep.
I guess I’m not sure why you’d take this approach of using valves if it’s not pressurized? What would the goal be?
But for the valves themselves, I’d avoid brass and rather than going industrial I’d be looking at irrigation supply places. Dunno if they send to you but Drip Depot will give you an idea of what’s available.
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