In a couple weeks or so I’ll be planting my Hazemans’s chocolate thai x wild thai ryder f1’s. My ultimate goal is to create an equatorial jungle sativa auto. First by taking this strain to f3 and then starting the process again but with a 6-month thai.
If I select for the last to show flowers after 12/12 will this work? Each parent expresses wide leaves initially before they stretch to narrow. In fact the auto created little triangle leaves.
I don’t have the space to grow them all out and wait. So the sooner I can ID the most NLD plants the better.
Any tips would be appreciated.
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Thats probably a good idea. To see wich ones trigger first on 12/12. Ideally select those that take longest an you might be able to get rid of the afghan wos bred into their thai an what ever was used to bulk up the 2.5. Some of the seedlings might show slimer leaves too. But in working that way you might end up after some work with seeds with very little wildthailand in them. It might be better to select afew most sativa wildthailand leaning. An the same amount of the most sativa chocolate thai leaning so your next generation is still a balanced hybrid of the sativa side of both parents.
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Thanks for the reply @ NIGHTMARE. Sorry I’m slow responding. I read your post and then lost track for a few days.
I would have had a few more WOS beans to work with but they got caught up in covid, Spain freezing over, and a 3 month shipping delay. The pkg itself was in such bad shape even many of the seeds were cracked into pieces. I managed to get maybe seven into seedlings and then that snowstorm that blacked out Texas hit us in Arkansas and I lost power for 2 sub-freezing days, killing my grow. So I only had 2 WOS seeds left. I bred one with the last male choc thai (out of four) to show flowers.
It wasn’t until I pollinated the fem did I read about how shady WOS is. I was going to cross my last Wild Thai seed with one of these f1’s but I’ve lost interest in using WOS gear.
Also, will these f1’s I have now be an “early” thai?
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“Each parent expresses wide leaves initially before they stretch to narrow”
This can be steered with nutrition availability. Not necessarily a genetic trait.
It’s like saying this landrace sativa plant is actually a hybrid that genetically has half big 9 finger leaves, and half small 5 finger leaves.
No. It just ran out of nutes at bloom, thanks to transplant into crappy soil mix, the leaves stopped growing when the buds started.
Cannabis does not vary as much as people pretend. Columbian Gold was gold from harvesting techniques, the only difference from ‘Regular’ Columbian. People with diabetes are bad at processing sugar. They aren’t a new species. They just need pre processed sugar or whatever. One gardens sativa is another gardens indica. Cannabis is a highly “adaptable” plant.
Diet is the difference between a 100lb and 1000 white girl.
I’m growing the original cannabis plant right now. And will breed the first evolutionarily familiar cannabis plant from it. The petals wrap all around a singular bud, like a stereotypical flower, on roids. It’s a beautiful plant. All the stoner posters will be obsolete once the Original Weed returns, lol.
This is the original Cannabis plant:
Unrecognizable to most. Which pheno should I use? I Do you think it will be indica, or sativa? Hopefully it’s the wonder drug Cannabis used to be known as, before “evolving” into Cookies Cake.
I take devolved cuts as a signature against the “looks mean everything” mentality. Don’t worry about physical looks. Worry about your grow skill. They aren’t interchangeable. Unless you work for Cookies.
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Are you saying the only difference is in how you grow? I’m not following you here. How much do you think genetics plays a part? You said that landrace sativa stopped it’s fan leaf growth due to environment. So if you transplanted it into better soil they would have grown out into narrow leaves right? I mean the genetics are what I’m after. If I cut off both my legs that doesn’t mean I then give birth to one-legged children.
Sorry If I’ve misunderstood you.
I understand what he is saying. For example some people cull by leaf shape but ive seen some slightly wider leafed sativas produce nothing but thin braids for buds. In other conditions an grow rooms the leaves on the same cut can display differently an sometimes nutrition can change looks too. But thats why its good not to select just by leaf shape but plant growth structure, bud structure, vigor, internode spacing ect. If you use whats available to you you can easily separate a f1 sativa/indica hybrid into two separate lines. One being a mostly sativa an one mostly indica.
It was a shame you lost so many seeds. I have seen some very very sativa phenotypes come out of regular wildthai seed. There is a beautiful one on the seedfinder. As to your question regarding your auto wildthai x chocolate. Your seeds will mostly come out as normal flowering. some will be a semi auto, meaning outdoors in certain areas it will have the big growth but trigger into flower quicker an earlier than normal as the light hour get shorter. But a small percentage will be full auto, so if you can find a male auto an a female auto when you breed those you will have a fully auto hybrid. In those look for the most sativa ones to make a full sativa leaning thai auto.
At f2 I would like around 30 autos to choose from. So I’ll need about 120+ to start. Starting off under 12/12 should expose the photos quickly. They should be culled in the first two weeks.
But these won’t be where I want them at f3.
I’m nearly 50 and I’ve never had true equatorial jungle sativa. The 20+ week kind. That where I want to take this. Next I’ll be collectig pollen from a six month thai and starting over.
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Oops wrong spot. I was high af
Yeah I considered restarting this because I had only 4 males and a single female. And the female was no more sativa than auto ak’s I’ve grown. I have considered pollinating a Mephisto Mango Smile with a landrace equatorial sativa.
I do know the steps needed to make an auto and the importance of starting off with the right genetics. But I spent the better part of a year just trying to get those WOS seeds just to have customs take them (twice), then ask a very cautious friend if I could have pot seeds mailed to his house because my address has been flagged for receiving pot seeds. And then I had the problems I wrote about above. So this is just a final lap for me. At the very least I plan on growing out some f2 autos this summer.
But you’re right on everything in your post. The odds for the ibl working well is pretty slim. But those wild Thailands became such a frustrating ordeal I’m going to make autos from this cross just to see it through.
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if you select for auto traits in you Auto x Thai, you can simply watch wich ones start to flower, those are your autoflower Thai.
However, best is still to select for those Autoflower PLUS trippy Thai effect… otherwise you will take alot unwanted traits from the Auto-side with it.
the good thing : that does still mean you can cull everything that doesent flower very briefly,…
probably you can select from those remaining autoflowerers just the thin Thai look alike individuals to save yet another couple months?
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Im not hundret percent shure if what im saying is the case, but this was the anwser someone on another thread gave about the same problem.
There is a thread on icmag called : Breeding a cambodian auto.
Stems are often an early indication of wide or narrow leaning traits, the thinner woodier ones tend to be associated with narrow leaves, the thicker celery looking stems tend to correlate to wider leaf types. As with any mixed genetics though, this is only a general guide and not always the case.
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