Ok I have applied a dose of litfa for the last 2 days. Real life had me caught up.
The photo shows my issue. Yellowing in-between the small veins and a bit of leaf curl at the tips. Only seems to be affecting some of the upper leaves. I’m growing in Coco and pearlite using gh maxi grow nutes.
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I’ll wager excess N, & a bit of burn. More LITFA & some flushin between feeds. 
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@joecool what strain is that?
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It’s off a mk-ultra first issue I’ve had really sin e it started growing
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It’s a magnesium deficincy.
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Where on the plant is this leaf from? What does the rest of the plant look like?
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They are upper leaves. Within the top quarter of the plant. Just started happening within the last few days.
Just flipped to flower 2 days ago now. I just hope I can pull it out of it’s funk before it gets to serious flowering.
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That seems to be the issue from the research I’ve done. Next watering is tomorrow and I’m going to add some epsom per @smokenhike recommendation and see if that fixes it.
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The worst thing you can do now is to start giving it more nutrients without truly knowing what caused the problem in the first place. That could cause you more problems in the long run.
What I see in the pic provided is intermediate leaf chlorosis, but not to the point of necrosis just yet, however, it won’t be far behind if not properly remedied.
Chlorosis is the cause of leaf tissue yellowing due to a lack of chlorophyll. Causes of chlorosis include poor drainage, root damage, nutrient deficiencies and high alkalinity within the plant.
Nutrient deficiencies that are known to cause chlorosis in plant leaves are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and magnesium.
Necrosis is the death of cells or tissues, it is not a disease, but a symptom of disease or distress within the plant. Disease is a known common cause for necrosis, however, environmental stress, water quality, insect pests and nutrient deficiencies also may play a part.
I am leaning towards a magnesium deficiency too. If you plan on using Epsom salts to bring up the magnesium level in the plant, consider using it as a foliar spray, as this will make the magnesium readily available for the plant to use right away.
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I have never tried foliar spray. What time of day should I use a foliar spray? At the plants nighttime to keep from burning it up?
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First, the most common plant deficiencies are nitrogen, calcium and magnesium. All three may be remedied quickly with foliar feeding.
Foliar feeding should only be used on plants that are in their veg cycle, on up to the first few weeks of flower. Don’t foliar feed plants with developing buds on them, this could cause more problems down the road.
The stomata on the leaves are open during the light cycle to aid in photosynthesis and they take approximately 20 minutes to close after lights out.
Just after lights out is the best time to foliar feed, as this allows the plant to absorb the nutrient solution quickly before it’s stomata close.
Stomata are small pores on the leaf surface, responsible for cation exchange, but can also absorb nutrients when they are open… and at a much faster rate than liquid feeding or top dressing.
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As it’s on younger leaves I’d suspect low Boron and/or Manganese as the culprit. Mg, N and other mobile nute deficiencies show up on older leaves first as the plant robs them to keep the tops healthy and growing well.
I used boric acid from the drug store a couple years ago when I had leaves showing up like that and it fixed it. A tsp in a gallon one time is plenty as the plants need just tiny amounts. I’d like to find a manganese supplement and may just see if health food stores carry it.
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Okay I gotta get a spray bottle but the 1.5 grams of epsom per gallon in the last watering 2 days ago has already cleared up most of the yellowing that was happening now time to get the clawing figured out n then I’ll be set again.
Thanks all for the answers you have shared.