Yes the runoff water, but as a whole. By example if you’re watering with a “runoff” of 25% of what you’re pouring : collect it, stir it and test it. It avoid to have a “runoff” lower than the regulated watering, killing PH buffer in the medium, shocking roots with regulation over regulation etc … then managing the drift.
Being obsessionnal with the PH, outside rockwhool and clay pellets, is not specially good with our plant. Your water being good, you’re barely in the case to can grow PH free with coco and count only on buffers of coco and nutrients to LIFTA it for you.
the new growth on tops seems OK…keep your eye next few days on new growth…personally you should be OK…if the new growth forming was burning and showing signs of anything I’d concern but at moment the plant isn’t critical…your doing OK bro…let medium dry down and keep an eye on new growth…
Never give up never surrender! Unless a plant has gone completely south these littles should bounce right back once you remedy your issue.
In my opinion I believe you have a PH issue. I’ve never used coco loco myself but being it is a coco based medium with some organic inputs and I think you would benefit from a lower PH than you’re currently running like @Longtooth mentioned. If i were you’d I’d be in the range of 6.2 - 6.5…
I’ve run coco with dry amendments in the past and it’s worked pretty good for me.
also since you’re plants are small and in a bigger pots they should have a decent amount of food to get them by before you even need to add anything to your water. Which leads to the next question…
Do you know the PPM’s of your tap water? I have extremely shit tap water at the faucet. My city tap water comes in at around 1400PPM’s on its own. Completely trash! I use R.O. for my plants. Before I had R.O. I used 2 of those cheapy charcoal hose filters inline to try to clean up my water just a bit and it worked decently(one at the front of the hose one at the back)… not a bad option if you can’t afford an R.O. system.
P.S. your name completely reminded me of an old band I used to love…
Looking ok still I think but I have one plant w spotting on the new growth leaves. I attached a photo of all the plants and this one. I noticed it had a root or two poking thru the soil somehow. Thinking maybe that caused the spotting on the newer leaves. Last pic is the problem child.
Inter-vein chlorosis is often an indication of a magnesium deficiency but I’d hate to see you start chasing deficiencies this early in the grow, I’d ride it out and see what happens personally.
When they are small, little things will affect them, which a larger plant would shrug off. If I get spots on young plants I just stick with my plan as long as they aren’t looking terrible or dying.
Woke up to to of extra water on tent floor u see risers. Soaks it up w towels and drained. Filled three solo cups so I’ll keep eye on watering amounts. I took this as opportunity to measure PH in that runoff and got the below result. Is that a cal mag deficiency? A few of the plants today got a few yellow spots starting f
I’d agree with other members…there’s not to much to worry about here but normally at young seedling stage the watering regime has to be very minimal…as soon as you over water at this kind of age it will show these tell tale signs in the pics you show…its not feed related as the soil is new and adequate enough to serve food to the seedling…there could possibly be a division between the pH of your water currently and the soil…but at glance and studying new growth with no burn tips…I wouldn’t worry a great deal…let the soil now feed the plant and try not to add extra nute into soil for time being…just water it when it needs it…adding nutes to rich soil with seedlings this age is not needed…if you need any advice on anything I’ll be happy to talk on mail with you if you have any problems in future…good luck!!!
Do you recommend less water then? How do I know when to water? Sounds silly I know. My tent temps are stuck at 69f and 67-68rh. In light off t gets to 61-62f not sure if maybe cold also effecting color of leaf
bless you…I think sometimes the problems can start when small seedlings are put into to larger pot from birth…very difficult to navigate a watering regime because the pots too big and the roots are just too small bless em…lol…adds to many problems when you water…too much and you drown and choke everything…but 2 little is sometimes manageable…but when a pot size way outsizes its seed form you have to know exactly what your doing with watering…I’ve been around flowers 40 yrs of my life and I’ve never attempted what your doing here…and what I’ve seen many doing…the seedling pot you are starting in is way to big…that kind of pot size doesn’t come along until the seed is Bush size…I understand growers want to give seedlings ample feet space to grow but you cannot correctly measure watering with younguns when you do…your pics look like the classic signs of “pot to big, seedling to small” and a watering regime consistent with being safe and its only waterlogged slightly looking at pic evidence…it needs to have a version of dry though as roots will just choke in long term water at that age…temps are fine and if anything better to err on the cooler side than not in vegg growing…your OK fella… edit and if you can manage it try not to let them lights off temps go lower than they are if possible…but you are bang on track so far…bless
the pics shown is how I’ve started seeds for an absolute age…a very small dixie cup pot…easier water management and less chance of any damping off and overwatering problems…at this age I use a spray bottle to water seedlings and I don’t ever soak even this little pot size when I do…watering is given sparingly and very minimal at this age…they stay in these pots for 2 weeks…pic 2 shows you the up pot size I’m using(3ltr).and at this age watering is still to the point I don’t water to run off at bottom of pot…I spray water enough to heavy the pot without seeing excess…keeping so the roots are breathing and moving…pic 3…at 4 weeks old and the second up pot at 6.5ltrs I then proceed to start a watering regime where I see just the very minimal amount of water on excess at bottom of pot .a trickle…then i leave to thoroughly dry and water till same run off again…when you stage pot sizes like this on early growth its difficult to run into problems…all 3 pics shown are just biobizz allmix soil and water pH adj 6.7 and nothing else…you don’t need it in this particular soil and it aids you in not needing a nute regime which does invariably toxicate the soil early in seedlings…
Garden looked ok this morning but that little tiny plant seems to be going nowhere and it looks like its one leaf was eaten…. But there’s nothing in the tent to eat it… is it just deformed?
Also see one little gnat or some fruit fly buzzing in there any concern this early? Is it a spider mite?
a little water on leaves shouldn’t hurt although I tend to not mist leaves or foliar feed at all…just personal preference…but spraying pot and getting excess on leaves is OK… just don’t drench them…lol…I would invest in a sticky yellow fly trap fairly close and hung up in tent to attract adult gnats…fruit flys I’ve never experienced in my garden but I would imagine a stick trap would catch these as well…the gnats are there probably due to overwatering…that mute seedling I would say let it grow through and watch the new growth…certainly looks muted and a sign of maybe genetic mutation…but it looks alive…maybe a little overwatered but seems OK for now…let it dry down…if you start to see quite a few gnats in future and it becomes a problem…stay using the yellow sticky fly traps and peel some potatoes…use the skin of potato and Place flesh side down onto soil…any fungus gnat larvae and pot pest will be attracted to the potato and start eating that and not your roots…leave 4 or 5 pieces of potato face down on affected pots until the peel virtually drys out…when you pick it up to discard closely look at the peel and you will see it teaming with larvae normally…discard peel and put fresh back on soil top and keep repeating everyday…in conjunction with a yellow fly trap as your defence against pests…you should be able to contain gnats easily…but they have arrived in the garden through possible overwatering or the soil u used could have had larvae eggs that have hatched in the warmer temps…I cannot diagnose the symptoms or presence of mites because I’ve never witnessed them here so don’t really know what I’m looking for…lolol
it can be a good defence against pests and critters attacking your roots to feed on…once potato peel lays on soil top everything in that pot living will be attracted to it…lay maybe a few pieces each day and periodically check if they dry out…if they do…add more fresh peel…cycle this approach over a week or 2 and you can contain the critters and larvae to concentrate on potato starch and potassium and not the precious roots they love to devour…pest control on a budget…and it works!!!