Because Mapito is a eu thing
Mostly USA and Canadians on here , and it’s not really easily available there
1 Like
Roger that,One day I ll try to Jump from Coco to mapito too,It s on the shopping cart
1 Like
I will sometimes mix my veg and bloom ferts together if I feel a ratio change is required. I don’t do this often, but I will.
3 Likes
@Andrexl you can use mapito over and over for years , so extremely cheap in the long term
You just flush the crate after the grow and of you go again and again and again etc : )
1 Like
Not really. Let me clarify that a touch. Organic and inorganic terms of horticulture at it’s most basic level refer to the method in which nutrients are delivered to the plant. Organic means, as they also present in nature, rely on microorganisms for nutrient chelation and uptake. Chemical cues are sent out to the microbes that tell them what the plant wants, they in turn deliver for the price of sugar, provided by the plant in a sort of give snd take. Inorganic means use the water uptake as delivery of dissolved salt based nutrients in fertigation, and it’s not natural for a plant to eat while it drinks some say. That’s the brass tacks of it. Organic is not marketing term to deceive people, it’s a method designator.
3 Likes
I am in complete understanding of how microbes do their thing. This is a good definition though 
Obviously my point has gone over most people head here. I wasn’t trying to teach people how microbes and organic soil work. I was simply stating that I dont think man made nutrients are evil like I used to think.
What is the definition of organic when it is not applied to horticulture? (People never respond to these points I make when it doesn’t help their argument)
In my mind Phosphoric acid is a organic substance that can be found within nature in an organic state. Weather man makes it or not it is something that is natural to this earth before man arrived.
On the other hand something like DTPA is a chemical that man made that as far as I know was not around before man made it. DTPA is entirely synthetic where as phosphoric acid is organic.
I like the method designator part, well spoken.
The term Organic is being used to deceive people in almost every single market today.
This is because a plant feeds using a type of electrolysis, meaning it is in constant exchange with the medium of positive cations and negative anions (the positive and negative elements as well as the positive and negative hydrogen).
See dude this is where you keep loosing credibility, you use terminology improperly and/or erroneously within a tone of expertise. That’s called ion exchange, electrolysis refers to something completely different. It’s redundant to say positive cation and negative anion, you wouldn’t say “positive positive particle” would you? Hydrogen doesn’t exist as an anion typically, and not on its own outside of a binary compound. Furthermore, soils are typically negatively charged and CEC is the chemistry at hand, because nutes and waste are cations. Only tropical overweathered soils retain a net positive charge and are not considered fertile for that reason.
Do more research on what you speak on.
5 Likes
If someone doesn’t know what cations and anions are, stating their charge helps to clarify the context of the sentence.
The ion exchange is very similar to electrolysis and saying electrolysis helps paint the picture of how this exchange is taking place. But you are correct they are different. I guess I should have said it is similar.
From the research I have done I was under the impression that the hydrogen was being exchanged through opposite charges. Doesn’t the plant release the negative hydrogen when it takes the positive? @Cannacryptic (If I am wrong you should chime in, if I am correct definitely don’t acknowledge so as that might effect your own credibility.)
So you are saying that a person has to know every single detail about a topic to post their opinion on why they are doing something a certain way? I wasn’t trying to school anyone. I was stating my reasoning for what I do and giving the thoughts behind my reasoning and simply creating a dialog… I used to think synthetics were evil, after doing the research I find that it is the organic nutrients that hold more of the bad elements that hurt people. I’m not saying that organic is evil either.
Nobody should do anything the way I do it… I’m a Dragon for gods sake and you are a normal human being.
When it comes to your grow, listen to everyone else and don’t listen to me. I’m just here to tell you what I am doing, not here to tell you what you should do.
Thanks for all the info guys, I guess its like @Cannacryptic said, jump in and give it a go.
2 Likes
Few tips I picked up along the way.
Jack’s 3-2-1 is hands down the most cost effective total nutrient package on the planet that produces top shelf yields in both quality and quantity.
A dry back done properly, and strategically, will instigate a growth response as it triggers genetic memory, the plant’s internal clock so to speak. Especially early on from seed, the wet dry cycle tells the plant when to grow and how “old” it is. This is also the mechanism at work that makes small containers so effective with coco. The study that proved this tested variables such as mat density, shape, nutrient source (dtw or reclaim), etc. and found the single most influential variable on growth rate in coco was container size. Although you don’t dry it back like soil, the ability to cycle quickly and multiple times a day from saturated to near dry and back is a growth “on switch” for cannibus.
Unless you dial your feed in such that you have no overfeed, hit them with only RO water fortified with cal mag once per week. Bottled water works also.
Spend some money on a good conductivity (tds/ec/ppm) meter and a good pH meter, and calibrate them often. These instruments are the window to your system health, entire grows have been nuked due to shitty meters and bad calibration habits.
Ditch the perlite, you don’t need it.
3 Likes
I’m chiming in, you’re wrong, my credibiilty is solid. That’s why it’s called cation exchange. A similar event happens in water softeners. A wanted cation is statically bonded to a negative substrate. The unwanted cation bumps it out of place as it bonds to the substrate at the same site. Root uptakes the wanted cation that is now free and active.
Sure dude, post whatever you care to, but don’t expect it float around without anyone challenging it, especially if there’s holes in it. Take it as a learning opportunity, if you’re gonna post your opinion don’t ya want it to be accurate? If your opinion is rooted in fact don’t you welcome friendly debate to prove to yourself you are indeed understanding the reality of something? Do you have a grip on your ego so it doesn’t inhibit you from receiving constructive criticism? Or do you just want to believe your opinion is fact because it’s your opinion and expect me to as well? I can’t do that bud, I’m a scientist, ethically bound to to value fact over feeling. Plus, there’s people reading and learning from these debates and discussions, we owe it to them to be certain we are presenting knowledge known to be true and vetted as such when presenting it from a position of expertise and advice given.
I’ll be honest with you, I sense immaturity. Your write up read like a book report and was laiden with error and misused terminology. You have an emotional response to any question of your opinion and couldn’t see that it’s a great thing when your thoughts and ideas spark debate and discussion. You seem to be the only one being deceived by the word organic and it’s meaning, and unwilling to learn. I’m not trying to be a dick dude, this is what help looks like.
12 Likes
I like turtles.
4 Likes
I Second all your words @Cannacryptic
If you don’t want answers or feedback as you Say don’t post,Just let It stay as a thought, don’t express opinions on public thread then
4 Likes
Hey Fellow Janjo. I used coco coir for a few years and really liked it in some temps .Also coco peat (which everyone should avoid) also used Deep Water Culture systems, aeroponic systems too (which with areo cloners you will absolutely get the fastest roots out of your cuttings. 6 days 7-8 days tops.
avoid bubbler cloners.
However i was travelling and moving further into the tropics each yearwhere its harder to source coco and the old DWC and aero systems are too hard to keep the water temps down.
Root rot and losses of crops.
Also power outages on the reg up in NT australia means you can not do standard hydro such as aero or DWC,.
Then i went back to straight old coarse PERLITE. 100% PERLITE.Easy to get cheap and good.
not only because it works and is hard to kill with tropical temps but because its meant for DRAINAGE!.
Drainage means the roots lose water faster so the roots spread faster seeking out water. much faster spread of roots than coco and more regular waterings. once a day in summer of NT australia once every two days in perth winters.
In fact the less you water the less chance of over watering and im pretty sure the product ends up more potent.
I have left plants outside for 9 weeks in perlite pots (12litre) and i dont remember it raining at all in that time. i never watered the plants, but when i went back for harvest they were close to done, a little early but the person i gave the buds to thought id laced it as the buds were so potent.he pretty much had an anxiety attack as the buds were too potent
Do not underestimate the power of great price and produce of perlite.
One thing- with pots over 20 -60 litres and plants over a pound or 4 the perlite is easily tipped over exposing roots…And the whole damn tree could tip over as perlite is TOO light weight.
1 Like
Hey @NightRider good to have a fellow ANZAC on OG, welcome brother. Thanks for sharing your experience I’ve only used soil/perlite mixes and yes the heat in summer is a big consideration when using substrates that drain quickly, and power outages too. Time to experiment I think.
1 Like
Outdoors top watering coco went poorly for me, bottom feeding went very well. Bugs could not get enough of the ones I was hand watering, same strain next to it in amended soil was immune to them and grew itself. Don’t know where I went wrong as I was busy but i doubt I ever got close to locking pH down.
4 Likes
I never once questioned your credibility. My book report (on my grow log) wasn’t titled: Why everyone should grow in coco exactly the way I do because I am the upmost expert, was it?
What do you think is immature about me telling you that you are right about hydrolysis being the wrong term? Then explaining why I thought there was a negative hydrogen involved somewhere within the entire process in some way, and then asking you to chime in whether I am right or wrong and not just abandoning the discussion like most people do without any real proof of their claims.
Do you go onto every persons grow log and create a debate about why they should do it your way. I certainly have not done that to anyone, that in my mind would be very immature and I would understand then if you were to come at me the way you have.
On the other hand, there seems to be a huge effort in some of the members here to push me out of this community… which is funny because this is supposed to be a place all about everyone sharing what we are doing and sharing genetics. Sharing is the key word, not creating conflict or hierarchy or segregation. The feds have done that for far to long to this community and I am not sure why anyone would want to pick up where they left off.
Now lets get back to the premise.
I applaud this response much more than your first because it is directed directly at the premise of what I wrote, which was why I fertigate often, and now I see a small reason as to why you might be all up in arms about how I grow my head stash way over here.
What would make it even better is if you had provided the community with a link to the study you refereed to so we could read and think it through ourselves, and know it is a real study.
There are several people on this board that don’t want “the people” to grow marijuana, they go around posting contradiction without any real proof of what they are saying to confuse those who are trying to learn. I’m not saying that this is what you are doing here @Cannacryptic in fact I believe there probably is a lot of truth to the dry back that you speak of in coco. I’m guessing that this occurs in my process because I only fertigate during the night once. But my coco doesnt get so dry that the cation pockets become empty enough to show signs of deficiency in the leaves, or to let the roots shrivel up.
It would also be better if you provided your suggestions as to how often this study or you think a person should fertigate their coco and how much drainage should occur? Since you are teling everyone that you are the upmost authority on the matter and the way I said that I do it is totally wrong.
-So from what you are saying about the unwanted cation bumping the wanted one free… That’s what I thought the plant was doing with the negative hydrogen that it was releasing when it picked up a positive. So you are saying that the plant is not releasing a negative hydrogen to get the positive one??? Then what is the unwanted cation you are speaking of that is bumping it?
It would make sense that it is replaced with the same charge not the opposite like I was thinking.
I’m all about healthy discussions and I have not once told anyone that they were wrong in the way they do things.
I didn’t write that book report for someone like you @Cannacryptic I wrote it for someone who doesn’t know anything about the ion exchange and thinks a plant feeds like a dog, or a human for that matter. And for someone who might be switching from soil to coco to help them understand how different these two things can be. When I switched from soil to coco I thought I should water the coco like I watered soil. My plants grew buds but they didn’t thrive the way they do now with the process I explained that I am using.
2 Likes
Hey @NightRider good to have a fellow ANZAC on OG, welcome brother. Thanks for sharing your experience I’ve only used soil/perlite mixes and yes the heat in summer is a big consideration when using substrates that drain quickly, and power outages too. Time to experiment I think.
Well thanks for the welcome Jango fellow ozter where we chunder and drink out on the cornfields watching lightning burn sugar, haha but i would not pay too much attention to my above quote of not watering for 9 weeks. im guessing it must have rained in that time. i was on the east coast where rain is common. 9 weeks without at least water and definitely only nutrients already salted up built up in the root mass of pots medium is asking for trouble but i panicked as a rookie teen and had way too many plants for my flower room or veg setups. so ditched about 30 out in a cliff face, facing east not NORTH as most outdoor crops do best…
.got some yeild and potent buds but it was a gamble and just taking that many plants in my car down the highway at 3-4am with one trucky pulled up right behind ,me at lights with a view inside my boot of all these green leaves…would not do that again for the life of me.
As for perlite under 18 litres its great. water 4 glasses per 8 litres of pot every 2 days most of the time. once a day in hot days and should be sweet…over weatering for coco and perlite kills crops so if you are a rookie going hand watered- feel the weight of each pot before watering.
I only do scrogs these days which means 2 months of veg so im not wating that time with non feminised seeds. Yet i still hand water each pot (with a screen close above medium)judging by its weight of water left…best to miss a watering if there is any weight in the perlite.
overwatering has caused me more drama than ever underwatering.- besides a bigger hassle when a driver dies and it takes two weeks for a new one.i always thought healthy plants would last 5-7 days without light…NO. 3-4 before DEAD.
On that note- if you can afford it buy a spare led/hps 250 watt flouro or hps to back you up because light led drivers failures are getting common and waste your time if you dont have a spare light with decent output.
1 Like
Cheers for the info mate, like you I run fems for flowers and cant afford the time lost with a crap run with only one tent so I’ll try coco on some regs, this summers forecast is for a real hot one so it should be interesting.
1 Like