Yellowing and other problems

[SEMOActivist]

All the plants are in the same soil and have had only water. I wait to water until I can stick my finger into two inches of dry soil. There are fungus gnats in the tent. I live real close to a wooded wetlands

The three plants in the back have yellowing issues. I believe it is caused by the Updayday light. They are the only one that get all their light from the Updayday.

I have another plant with a different issue with the big fan leaves.

The Updayday light is not a normal LED. This is what the manufacturer says about the light.

• New LED HPS FULL SPECTRUM: HPS lamp always harvest double big and heavy buds in planting,Its spectral is concentrated in yellow light 580NM, orange light 610NM red light 630NM, UPDAYDAY UD4000 HPS lamp, increasing 390NM, 660NM, IR740NM. VEG model add blue light helps plants grow rhizomes and lush leaves during seedling ,BLOOM model add IR stimulate the growth and flowering of stems,forming a multi-band full spectrum and increasing yield

[Kushking902]

What size pots are those? I find with organic water only soil you have to be on top of transplanting. It’s not so much they become root bound but the level of nutrients to roots in a smaller pots become low if your not running a hot soil.

[SEMOActivist]

I put them in ten quart pots a week ago. I have other plants in the tent that are doing just fine in the same size or smaller pots in the same soil. These plants are under a different light in the same tent.

[Jango]

They look hungry to me the plants are using its lower fan leaves

[Jango]

Hey @SEMOActivist that sounds an interesting grow lamp, HPS and LED, got any pics?

[George]

Agree they look hungry …

Amazon.com: UPDAYDAY UD-4000HPS Full Spectrum LED Grow Light Plant Grow Lamp...

[SEMOActivist]

Veg mode on the Updayday

Bloom

Controls and display

I bought this light when it first hit the market in January this year. It was on sale plus there was a good amazon prime coupon. I paid $135 for it. For that price it was worth it. Now the price is $340

The dimmer switch is terrible. You turn the dimmer control and turn it and turn it and nothing happens then all at once it dims by a lot.

[Jango]

Just had a look at the link that @George posted, it uses the spectum of HPS for flowering.
Seems to be doing the trick👍

[SEMOActivist]

I use Pro Mix all purpose, with kelp meal, blood meal, gypsum, dolomite line, ton of worm castings and humus. There is an very large oak tree that fell in the woods within thirty feet of a swamp close to my house. The top part the bark is still hard. The rest has decayed down into a dark humus with some spongey wood bits that break up easily. I leave the hard top bark in place when I am done collecting the humus to protect it from washing away. This stuff works great in my garden and my roses. If you find a tree like this protect it!

Any suggestions on plant food to add to this for the hungry ones?

[shag]

My advice is…
Spray some magnesium nitrate 1-2 times a day for 1-2 weeks.
Magnesium sulfate will work but the nitrogen is needed too, so that is better.

Good luck
shag

[DesertGrown]

There are a some things you mentioned that are a little concerning to me, as far as your plants health goes.

First, I don’t believe your light has anything to do with your plant issues.

Second, I’m pretty sure the main problem you’re experiencing is caused by the decomposed oak that you’ve incorporated into your organic medium.

This first part isn’t what is causing your immediate problem, but it’s good information to keep in mind for later use.
Oak wood/bark/leaves contain moderate amounts of tannins. When oak debris decomposes, these tannins can inhibit the germination of seeds, (if the oak debris is completely composted, then it won’t affect seed germination this way). Otherwise, use a different medium when you want to start more seeds.

Moderate amounts of decomposing oak debris immobilizes nitrogen in the soil, rendering it unavailable to the plant… which in turn, makes other nutrients unavailable to the plant as well, literally starving the plant.
Good eye fellas… @Jango and @George, they are right in saying your plants are hungry.

Fully decomposed oak debris does not immobilize nitrogen, nor does it render other nutrients unavailable to the plant, in fact, there will be more nutrients unavailable to the plant.

Maybe consider watering your plants before the medium becomes too dry to combat unnecessary plant stress.

If you’re holding off waterings until the top two inches of medium is dry, then you could be causing your plants unneeded stress by allowing the soil to shrink away from the container sides, damaging root tips and drying them out. Root tips are the only way plants absorb water and nutrients needed for proper plant hydration and growth.

Maybe put a saucer under your containers during waterings to make sure the rhizosphere absorbs all the moisture it can hold and leave the saucer in place until the soil in the container swells with enough moisture to close the gaps.

[3MBT]

Calcium locking out boron magnesium and nitrogen.

[SEMOActivist]

The only part of the tree left is the top bark with a little wood the forms a shell… The rest of the tree is completely broken down. It is laying on the ground next to a wetland that has water all year round except in heavy drought years. It is a nice dark color with centipedes, night crawlers, sal bugs, mushrooms and a white root system growing throughout the humus pile.

I do have clear plastic saucers under the pots.

I start all my seedlings off with happy frog. They do not go into the soil I make until they are an inch taller than a solo cup.

Here is some soil I have now that is aging. It has a roots and a few bits of old leaves that are blackened but no whole leaves, bark or chunks of solid wood.

One thing I have noticed that is different between the pots. The ones that are yellowing have the most white fuzz growing on top of the soil. Could too much microbial activity be a contributing factor?

[George]

That white fuzz and yellowing could be white root rot:

Symptoms of white root rot

As the disease progresses, the infected tissue becomes rotten. Trees develop a generally unthrifty appearance with leaf yellowing, halted root growth, wilt, small leaves, early leaf fall and small, shrivelled fruit (Figure 2). Infected trees will eventually die

https://agriculture.vic.gov.au/biosecurity/plant-diseases/fruit-and-nut-diseases/white-root-rot#:~:text=Symptoms%20of%20white%20root%20rot,-The%20following%20symptoms&text=As%20the%20disease%20progresses%2C%20the,Infected%20trees%20will%20eventually%20die.

Wood-decay fungus

[SEMOActivist]

The fuzz is growing on top of the soil.

[George]

That could mean it is in an advanced stage:

Try to check roots, this may help …

[EugeneDebs420]

Hungry, probably root bound. Yellowing from the bottom is n deficiency. Transplant and give em some fertilizer. I’d go with salts not organics at this stage cause they need the food fast. Pick up something like jacks 20-10-20 mix it to like 1.2-1.6ec ph it, feed every watering and hope for the best,

[George]

If the rest of the plants have the same soil and no problems I don’t think is food or lights related but could be a root issue, that’s typical when problems start from above and go up. Plant has enough food but cannot process it, check this veins:

[CapnCannabis]

Would too much water causing lockout in the roots cause that?Im going off the mold on that soil too that doesn’t look like a mycelium bloom to me looks like that soil is drenched.PH is probably out of whack too

[George]

As the OP says:

One thing I have noticed that is different between the pots. The ones that are yellowing have the most white fuzz growing on top of the soil.

Maybe overwatering has promoted root rot because of a wood-decay fungus (white fuzz), don’t think about pH issues because the rest of the plants would be affected. I would take a plant out of the pot and inspect roots and smell them, but that’s me …