Why do you have those other plants in there again? I forgot. If you took those out, you could easily be using three- or maybe even five-gallon pots.
What does FPT and FPF stand for? I see the products, one is humic acid, the other is fermented grain extract, but what do they mean? I’m pretty versed on KNF, but these are new to me.
I always eventually experience the remorse of wasting space on non-cannabis plants lol! The struggle is real.
@minitiger @JoeCrowe i will be taking those other plants out, maybe even today. Mostly been temporary, or well they have been doing better than one I took out that’s on the kitchen counter which doesn’t get as much light.
@ReikoX Those products weren’t sold to me as KNF products and I got them before I even knew about KNF lol so mostly am just using them cause I have them, but I think they a good anyways and maybe are in line with KNF since they are fermented products is what I was thinking mixing them into that maintenance solution
I’d point you to the website but it looks like you already have seen them… I think FPF mean fermented plant food? And I’m not exactly sure what FPT stands for lol kind of bad marketing on their part not to really explain the abbreviation I guess but they do give a lil more in-depth info when you click on and expand the “Dig Deeper”:
FPT:
The composition is long-chain open organic acids and amino acid groups with high molecular weights. The major functional groups include phenolic, carboxylic, carbonyl, quinoaid and peptides.
Long-chain organic functional groups help in increasing nutrient exchange processes through the root system. This process results in higher nutrient uptake leading to accumulation of sugars, chlorophyll synthesis and amino acids in plants. Higher brix helps the cells to stress tolerance. Peptide group protects the plant cells from physiological stress against peroxide compounds, toxins and free radicals generally build up in them. As a result, all the plants’ cell energy is used for growth and development. FPT also stimulates microbial population in soil resulting in better nutrient’s transformations and improving soil quality and plant immunity.
FPT is made from natural and organic sources. Using fermentation practices we use small amounts of Canadian Leonardite to extract humic acid.
Humic acids biologically stimulate the plant and the activities of microorganisms.
- Stimulates plant enzymes and increases their production.
- Acts as an organic catalyst in many biological processes.
- Stimulates growth and proliferation of desirable microorganisms in soil
- Enhances plant’s natural resistance against diseases and pests.
- Stimulates root growth,
- Increases root respiration and root formation.
- Thickens the cell walls in fruits and flowers
- Increases germination and viability of seeds.
- Stimulates plant growth (higher biomass production) by accelerating cell division, increasing the
- rate of development in root systems and increasing the yield of dry matter.
- Increases the quality of yields; improves their physical appearance and nutritional value.
- Humic acids physically modify the structure of the soil, with benefits such as:
- Prevents high water and nutrient losses in light, sandy soils,
- Humic acids chemically change the fixation properties of the soil, with benefits such as:
- Regulates the pH-value of soils.
- Retains water soluble inorganic fertilizers in the root zones and reduces leaching.
- Enhance cation-exchange capacities.
FPF:
FPF is fermented grains liquid which we isolate and extract using a non-base method for pure and clean material containing no heavy metals.
FPF contains high levels of small molecule composition acids, amino acids, humic acid, minerals and enzymes. It is of low molecular weight. Because of its low molecular weight, it has the ability to readily bond minerals and elements into its molecular structure causing them to dissolve and become easily absorbed by plants.
- FPF is organic and non-toxic.
- Dissolves silica and magnifies the many benefits of this element.
- Responsible for an increase in stomata opening and transpiration and assists plant respiration as well as improving the respiration of beneficial microorganisms.
- Directly influences numerous enzymatic processes and stimulates the plant’s immune system.
- Beneficial for plant RNA & DNA.
- Increase the activity of multiple enzymes.
- Aid chlorophyll synthesis.
- Enhances terpene profile and increase brix.
- Increase crop yields.
- Buffer soil pH.
- Synthesize new minerals.
- Stimulate plant metabolism.
- Decompose silica to release essential mineral nutrients.
- Detoxify various pollutants (pesticides, herbicides, etc.).
This is looking pretty cool, plunking down on the grass to watch the show.
I use similar products, FulPower for fulvic/humic acids and malted barley for the enzymes and amino acids.
Classics! I don’t know if I’ll rebuy the O.A. stuff or not, I like to know a lil bit more about what I’m putting in the soil and how much… they really need to list ingredients better.
Day 22 Veg - Friday
Here’s a pic of the cleared out space, not sure if it helped much, will prob have to come up with some defoliation strategy at some point:
I also leaf tucked a couple fan leaves on three of them.
Here’s a close up of the FIMed UK:
And here is the new home for a bit for the Purslane:
Anyone know if these can be topped and cloned?
Will prob bring some outdoors at some point.
Day 24 Veg Sunday
Just a lil update, everything seems to be humming along:
Here’s a better idea of what I’m working with height wise currently:
Can anyone tell yet if I did a successful FIM:
Other things I’m thinking about soon, a top dressing of the O. A. premium mix, maybe a sprinkle of some slow release, some labs, cuttings and side branches toppings.
if it’s successful there would be several new shoots growing out and it wouldn’t look normal. The quote I always remember was “never underestimate the mutagenic effects of a sharp stainless steel blade”.
Hah well I don’t know if it looks normal or if there are several shoots yet, I’ll have to double check shortly unless you already know lol
Day 25 Veg- Monday
A few things happening, so I didn’t mention/didn’t fully realize, but the other day was messing with the Blumat surface mount (cap mat valve essentially) and I adjusted it a lil too much, end of story, they got a tad bit overwatered I think?
Ironically, all but the variegated one have roots coming out the bottom:
Speaking of the variegated one not being the happiest, it’s got this on its leaf if anyone has any idea what this might be a sign of:
Not too bad on the overwatering, they are somewhat snapping out of it, but a lil droopy(also cause near end of day) and almost all of them have some purple stems which some say can be a sign of some sort of stress. I have also tried to turn down the humidity a bit as it’s been way too high anyway (seen +80% at times) and now it’s ranging from 70%-75%; less as time goes on and things dry up a lil. I increased the temp controller to 83F to help with that a bit with also a slight increase in the lights (maybe 400-450 umol/ppfd)? About 80 watts for 4sqft; not too high as far as I know?
Another plant, I think the UK (btw the BB, the variegated one and this one I believe are both the complex mixes) is starting to show the slightest sign of something with the faintest yellow and a yellow dot here or there you can barely see:
Besides that, I finally gave a very slight spray on the soil (since it’s plenty moist) of some 10:1 LABS (double recommended concentration since it was a light spraying?) tonight and will also do a tiny bit of 20:1 foliar once the lights go off. Hoping the LABS will help prevent any PM since I’m running a lil bit moist.
Tmr I think I’m gonna give a top dressing of the OA premium mix, seems like it about the right time seeing those slight signs and and seeing how apparently you got to apply it a bit ahead of time before it starts taking effect?
Day 26 Veg - Tuesday
So I think with the overwatering and my high humidity, it may have caused some sort of nutrient issues? Well, my guess is that since the humidity was high, it had been hard for them to drink up the water in the soil and thus also take in nutrients.
However, with that being said, it seemed like a good time for top dressing and I def could be wrong here, but I think the signs might be pointing to possible cal/mag deficiency? The O.A. Schedule even mentions to supplement cal/mag cause their products don’t have it… now I did put a lil in the bottom layer and like I said before maybe it’s this overwater/humidity thing cause this all seemed to happen around the same time, but I decided to add some anyway cause of signs on the leaves like this:
So for the top dressing, for each container, I did about 1/4 tsp oyster shell flour, 1 tsp dolomite lime, maybe 1 tbsp of food grade diatomaceous earth (for silica), then about 4 handfuls (1/2”-1” thick?) of the O.A. Premium mix which I believe is mostly ewc, then compost, rock dust and kelp; mixed with some yucca. I sprayed/watered (approx 80ml) that in with a combo of O.A.’s FPT(%20humic) at 0.4ml, FPF (fermented grains) at 0.1ml, and 1/2tsp of their V-N dry soluble (10-2-2). Before I sprayed it down I also sprinkled some of the myco/benes mix.
To help solve my humidity issue, I made an adjustment to my temp/rh controllers at the end of today which I’m hoping will play out well along with this top dressing in the next few days.
Basically what I did was lower my temp controller from 28C (83F) to 27C (81F) and I think this is going to be a sweet spot for my setup.
So right around that temp, since I recently increased my light intensity, it will basically keep my extraction fan on and seems to maintain at 27.5C. With my short observation, this seemed to bring the RH way down where I could get it to maybe around 61%. So, hopefully, this will have the plants drink more and clear things up
Here’s how they’re looking, if they start looking better, the next moves will be cuttings/lollipop of the 1st/2nd nodes as suggested:
Next time I’ll get a pic during the day, I think near the end of day they’re dropping more and ready for bed.
Day 28 Veg - Thursday
So kind of not sure exactly what I should do, thinking I should still wait a bit but the ladies are still showing some sort of nutrient signs, the soil is still moist so it really could be from overwatering… maybe phosphor deficiency (apparently give purple stems)…
What I’m sort of weighing here is about taking cuttings and flipping cause of height vs waiting to see if they get out of this funk and are more heathy before I do?
Here’s the FIMed section and overall view:
Just flip them, dude. You’re in those one gallon pots, so it’s already gonna be less than ideal. I feel like the longer you wait to flip, the more issues you’re gonna have.
Having said that, you’re fine. Those little yellow spots? Whatever. They might be something, probably, but it’s not a big deal. You’ll still get some sticky, stinky bud from your plants.
are the roots coming out of the bottoms of those pots?
Yes they are sir… think either just cause of cap mats in general or when it got flooded maybe a 1/4”?
@minitiger how bad do you think is it to flip and take cuttings when they are showing less than ideal signs like those?
Well, one, I would take cuttings before you flipped. And probably give them a week or so to recover.
And two, you’re fine. What’s “less than ideal”? A couple yellow spots on your leaves? You’re fine, dude. Just flip them. I don’t switch to flower any earlier than 60 days of veg, but I don’t grow in one-gallon pots. I think the longer you wait, the more issues there will be. Like I said already.
I was thinking the roots had grown out of the “good” zone and into space that’s what’s causing it.
Well, less than ideal to me would be purple stems, yellow and brown spots…
I guess I’ll take cuttings tmr or tonight and wait a week then unless somebody else has a different suggestion?
@JoeCrowe maybe that’s what cause it, I would think the plants would still get enough from the roots that are still inside the pots?