Advice Needed: Grow Box Door

pulling up a chair, will you post your build progress in this thread??

2 Likes

I actually think I’m going a different direction. I can get it going about a month quicker and with a lot less hassle by modifying an Ikea cabinet. If I had to build it from scratch I’d have to wait til June at least to get down to my moms and build it out. With the ikea cab, I can hopefully be popping by mid May since I can build and modify it in place. Yields will be a bit less with 3.8sq ft vs 6sq ft, but I can further mod it out later to have a small mother chamber and clone/seedling chamber which would allow me a more perpetual grow. Saves a bit of money on the build as well. Still glad I asked for this advice, as now I know how to seal it up and lock it down. I’ll start up a new thread when I get everything going (just need the final go ahead from the boss). Put the modification and first grow all up in the same thread.

2 Likes

Hi @ChronicMcBudz,
Some bad experience with wet particle board had me swear off wood for cabinets.
Wood harbors fungi and in my case that was bud rot.
The time you spend waterproofing the interior will be paid back hopefully by problem free grows.
I would seriously consider using at least a boat paint for the interior.
Caulk all joints with 50 yr caulk too.

I was impatient and anxious to start my growing and failed to do the above.
I spent so much time hanging the door if I were ever to build another or adapt a bought cab I would make the door removable with full length latches to hold it secure.
That way it is really able to be light proof.

But if you keep the hinges, look around for articles that use bicycle inner tubes for light blocks.:+1:

3 Likes

What do you recommend for water proofing? I had intended on just painting the interior flat white (kilz primer, its a sealant too) and having a catch tray on the bottom (really just a lid to a tote). I also planned on caulking up the seams as well, but was thinking more on the lines of drafts and light.

For the door seal, I was just planning on old school foam weather seal. I’ll look into the inner tube seal too. I’ll attach a board to the back of one of the doors to be able to seal the mid seam and latches at the bottom to keep everything shut.

Gotta figure out a light trap for the intake and possibly the out as well, depending on how light proof 4in ducting is.

1 Like

Grab a roll of black/white plastic and cover everything. If you overlap and tape the seams nicely you end up with a single smooth, reflective surface that’s easy to clean.

Rip it out and replace every couple of years for that ‘new room smell’ lol. It will also block any small light/air leaks. Use the red tape that’s for house wrap or vapor barrier, its really strong.

4 Likes

I painted a shower stall once with a paint similar to this.
Held up for years.
I seem to remember specific, significant prep work though.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Duralux-Marine-Paint-1-qt-White-Marine-Enamel-M720-4/205113915

I like doors on cabs that overlap the frame.

EDIT
Read the specs, wood needs to be primed with Yacht Pirmer.

3 Likes

You talking about panda film?

3 Likes

Yep that’s the stuff

2 Likes

I would make sure to use a fixative to the plastic/wood interface.
Water has a way of finding holes in plastic liners.

3 Likes

I think I’m going to hold off on the panda film for now. I am only going to have time for a single auto run right now. Might be able to squeeze in a second if i start them at the right time while the first batch finish. I think kilz and caulk should be enough for that if I’m careful to not splash water or anything. I’m going to have to do some more modification before I start it back up anyway.

Hey @ChronicMcBudz I’m not sure where your from, but I’m in Ontario, Canada and I had somewhat of a similar issue. I’m gonna suggest going to your local 2nd hand stores and look for their closet doors and older home wooden doors. They will probably even have some proper hinges you can snag up at the same time.

1 Like

I actually had originally intended on modding a cabinet from a 2nd hand store… then covid-19 hapenned. Basically, I’ve run around in circles trying to get it put together while I have the extra cash. Went from mod a wardrobe/cab from a 2nd hand, to ikea cab, to build from scratch, to ikea cab again lol. I can have the ikea cab up n running by the first or 2nd week of May, otherwise more like June. The extra month will allow me to get one to two runs of autos out before I have to shut it down to move. The ikea cab I’m looking at (Brimnes 3 door) I can further mod out for mother and clone/seedling chambers later and just use that side for storage of supplies for now.

1 Like

I have a 4x4x6 with a panda door /stick on zipper behind a plywood door to protect light from potentially going through the zipper. Negative pressure keeps plastic up against the bottom for air tight seal

I am using magnets. Quite a few of them, have to open the door with a butter knife.
Cant beat them for stealth, cant see anyone accidentally prying panels off furniture.
Pops off nicely and stays put.

Grow box pic , closed pic.

Will probably rework it, paint and make it seamless , for now it`ll do.

3 Likes

I ordered some magnets on Amazon for my amp rack in my work truck. Some of those things are so strong theyre dangerous lol. Panda film definitely beats a blanket hung outside of door though as a plan b

1 Like

Nice for the light proofing, really squishes the rubber strip.
If one had plenty of room, could make a pedal or hidden lever that pops it open.

2 Likes