I thought I would throw this little guide in to help any others that found themselves in similar situation. Unfortunately, some seedbanks sell old seeds and when that happens your germination rate may be determined by how much you help the little ones along.
I had some obviously old seeds when only a few out of 10 would even pop tap roots in a paper towel. Actually two out of ten, “Crystal”, and four out of ten, “Ice”.
I save and use rainwater for my seeded paper towel and always transfer seed with tap root to small cup with hole in soil about 1/4" to half inch depending upon length of taproot without touching taproot.
Oftentimes it seems on old seeds that some use all available energy/fuel? to push out the tap root and got nothing left to push seed too surface once in soil and if seed sits there very long with tap root not doing anything then, “damping off” can begin to occur rapidly.
This is when after a few days may have to dig down with a toothpick carefully to expose a seed head to light. Careful not to touch the actual seed head! When the seed head is exposed to light it will usually begin to grow up towards the light.
Old seeds that break the soil on time (plus those one has to help break surface) often won’t shed the seed hull! They just stay kinda bent over and damping off (and death will soon follow).
At this point I mist the seed head lightly and let water suck up in and around the partially separated hull. Then let that sit for say 10 minutes and lightly mist again.
Then you can take your toothpick and hook it under where the seed hull is separated and carefully tug to open the hull. I have had good luck with two toothpicks (one in each hand) and separating the hull by pulling it apart from two directions at same time.
Then usually the cotyledons (first leaves) are stuck together at tip by, “small round rust colored thing”!?!? I have scrubbed these off with misting and toothpick but have found the easiest way (at least for me) is to use my fingernail. I have even countless times pinched off much of the cotyledons and as long as they open (even if stuck at angle) and 1st true leaves tips show up then you got it.
On one shown in pic I supported one side of seedling with finger with one hand while I pinched off rust dot with finger nail on other hand so as to prevent shocking.
If the cotyledons don’t open then fluid will rapidly rot between cotyledons and damping off occurs and dies but if you can get the cotyledons open (even if one gone and only part of other one) and tiny tips show up in there then you got it.
All of my seedlings (in post after this one except the two WW X AK-48) were done this way to some extent or another. Best I had was two out of the 6 actually penetrated the soil surface but then had to remove hulls (for me it’s obvious after some hours after breaking surface if gonna shed hull or not by itself). Problem is the longer they sit with partial hull and cotyledons clamped together the more likely some form of damping off will occur. Certainly can’t leave em more than a day with seed hull still attached. The one in pic had half the hull literally stuck to cotyledons (definitely not normal).