This coco you’ve used to make your medium mix, have you got any to test in a cup. water it with neutral ph 7.0 water and 0 ec and collect run off to test. Do this in 1 of your plastic cups, no plant required. Let see the results.
Some coco can read 2.4EC on run off and needs washing before use.
there are two types of coco. inland and costal. you do not want costal. than even if the coco is prewashed, rinse it with at least 3 times the volume of the pot with water. 1 liter pot, run 3 litres of low ppm water through it. you can also use a flushing solution if it has a high ec. in contrast some coc you may also rinse with a mild cal mag solution. here in Mexico the coco is costal and NOT prewashed. sucks balls. coco can also be batch dependent. try to buy all your coco from the same batch or lot. do the test Herbie mentioned
Thats all good your coco is neutral, the 1.2ec is the food you have put into it.
When you mix your nutes solution set the ph at 6.2-6.5 PH that will slowly bring it up. 5.8 would be better.
No need to flush them through. Wait for the swelling to go down and the black and red colouration to go down and it will be about time for watering. We will check them in 3 days.
How have your max min temps been and humidity?
How much distance is there between the light and the top of plants?
Yes but when you fed your plants the one time you mixed it at 1.2 ec from memory and I said to bring it down to 0.8-1.0ec for those. My reason was becuase the tap water will have som ereading but I think you used RO water from memory, correct me if im wrong.
A plant that size only needs 0.8 -1.0 ec above the water reading before adding nutes. And the ph I would set at 5.8-6.2 to start with.
Once they start their rapid growth they will require watering more often, and that will adjust your ph when allowing some run off.
They should be good if left to dry out and grow. If you must love them spray with growth enhancing seaweed extract just before lights out, mist so it stays on the leaf and absorbs in their sleep, not till it runs off. Breath CO2 onto them, just dont add any more water.
Did you have a job in Guantanamo doing water boarding rofl.
Thats too warm hence the leaf curl on the edges, that temp wuld require humidity in the 80s-90s for the stomata to work properly, plus over watered, hence the crispy yellowing ends of leaves. Sure you didnt work for uncle sam with that water torture stuff.
Lift the light up if possible, keep the door down to create the negetive pressure with your fan and filter so the air is sucked through from bottom upwards pulling the heat out of top. The lowerin gof themps should cocncur with humidity going up.
25-27c and 50%RH at canopy level if possible please with lights on, a drop of 10c is ok over night but I prefer to keep it closer than that difference night and day, and RH will increase it ok to go high at this point 60+% night time.
Are you sure you used up?? Its more usual to use down or the nutes have humic and fulvic acids and silicone init to stabilise the ph at approx the right level when mixed?
How did you guage this without a ph pen to read/test liquid?
Have a look at the ingredients.
Yes the ph buffers do add to the ec and as the ph changes so does the ability for the plants to take it up. Normally they are phosphoric, potassium and nitric based acids in the ph adjusters. Some have growth and bloom options.
Your ec will not be the same at ph 7.0 as 6.2 your ec will read a bit higher when the ph is 6.2
Yes as an alternative to a ph pen. I meant when you mixed the nutes. How much volume did you put 1.5 ml of up into, and what is the strenght of the ph up%
Im not sure but i think the aquarium test kits may not be as accurate as the nutes sometimes have strange colours in them like greens and browns etc
Next time i’m gonna run hydro… This soil pH bulls**t is got me tired. Wouldn’t it be easier just to feed the water with the proper pH and EC, and VOILA!!! Change it in a week or so…