Thy some bud candy should help in like 2 days.
Magnesium nitrate
Also looks like iron deficiency… Def a micro nuts prob .🫠
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I just cut it down. It was just getting worse and I didn’t think I could fix it. The plant wasn’t growing, it just stalled. I tried the calmag. It didn’t help. The rainwater was around 5.5 (at least that’s what I read online) I honestly never tested it. and when the plant needed to be watered, when the pot was very light. I watered it with 6.5 water.
My fertilizer and amendments are a little bit of azomite. Craft blend from build a soil. A little bit of bloom from Botanacare, that’s bloom fertilizer from the same company that makes the soil I posted. A little bio char, some worm, castings and quatty blend compost from coast of Maine. I don’t add a lot of the stuff, maybe half a cup to a cup of each in a 7 gallon pot.
I have another plant that’s doing the same exact thing but it’s not as bad (no browning) so hopefully I can fix that one because that one’s still growing taller but the yellowing isn’t going away.
I grow a lot of other things. Different types of peppers, pumpkins, squash, flowers, and even wildflowers. The only plants that have a problem are the ones that I put in this particular soil.
So all the different comments are confusing me a little bit to be honest. What should I do exactly to correct this problem because all of my other plants are doing great and they’re just starting to bud.
What do you mean a combo? Too much or too little?
And I’m not saying they’re not overwatered but I’m pretty sure they’re not. They’re never drooping from overwater. Or needing water.
Your nitrogen, toxicity, makes sense though. Fan leaves were getting darker it looked like. The clawing, the plant not growing. And the drainage is pretty good. Water is actually never ran out of the bottom. Because I’ve never actually put a lot of water in the plants.
we were getting a lot of rain for a little while though…
What can I add to the plant to correct the problem like the sulfur, zinc iron you were talking about in your newer comment?
What do I need to do here?
Like I said, in my last comment, multiple people say multiple different things, and I don’t know who’s comment to go by. Basically, I need someone to tell me exactly what to do. Because I’ve been growing for a long time and this is something I’ve never come across.
I stopped growing cannabis about 10 years ago and focused on fruits and vegetables and flowers. Now I’m back into the cannabis and there’s a lot more information, fertilizers amendments, and knowledge on the Internet out there that wasn’t out there when I was growing years ago.
And a very long time ago when I was a teenager, back in the early 2000s I was getting a lot of my information from the original overgrow.com. But like I said, I was a teenager and didn’t have access to anything. Basically I was broke and dumb. But I will say, I was growing pretty good weed with the limited stuff I had.
If it’s really nitrogen toxicity then you could cut off the gnarly tops, get some poor soil, or coco coir and take the plants out of the pots, take away most of the earth from the roots, then mix that soil with the poor soil or coco, and put the plants back in.
You’re gonna see a lot of contradicting opinions here, we’re playing with life, it’s a mysterious affair to be alive at all, so tune into your gut, your solar plexus and go with what feels right to you.
Unfortunately all you are going to get are opinions and second opinions on forums, extremely hard to diagnose from pictures alone. it’s up to you to trial and error what direction you go with, I don’t know your medium, feed and watering schedule, Ec or feed schedule , ph of input and out put, humidity of your area, temps…etc, like I said it’s all opinion based on things that I’ve encountered and that may possibly help you pick a road to explore. All that can say is Learn from mistakes, in this case use ng different mediums during a run.learn what not to do next time. It took me a few years to dial in growing under led after growing for 20 under hps. I Tried a lot of things and did lots wrong, including blaming the lights lol but I learned what not to do over time and by growing the same clone a few times. I used online sources and read forums but never participated and found it actually made things more confusing. That’s the problem when everyone be is trying to help. Are you feeding salts or organic?
As far as combo I mean the domino effect of having micro nutrients either unavailable from ph lock out or non existent in the medium. essential secondary nutrients are magnesium (Mg), calcium (Ca), and sulfur (S). These nutrients are often unavailable to cannabis if proper pH levels are not maintained.
These secondary essential nutrients perform a wide range of critical functions to proper cannabis development. They are often necessary components or complementary parts to other nutrients and functions. They are all needed for plant and root growth, but they do have specific roles. Calcium assists in transporting other nutrients and aids in their absorption. Magnesium is a critical component of chlorophyll. Sulfur aids in the transport of chlorophyll, but also assists with plant metabolism and transpiration.
boron (B), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), and molybdenum (Mo) are always listed as essential micronutrients. Like the other essential nutrients, all micronutrients either have a unique function or serve to assist in the functions and processes of the other nutrients. Again the domino effect, the combo I was referring to
What follows is not an exhaustive list, but a sampling of some of the roles of micronutrients and how they aid in the development of cannabis plants:
- Boron — helps with the development and growth of root tips. It also helps plants to absorb Ca and transports sugars within the plant.
- Manganese — is a vital component of chlorophyll production and the photosynthesis process. It also aids with enzyme interactions.
- Zinc — aids in the development of stems, leaves, and branches. The more mature a plant is, typically the more Zn is present and required.
- Copper — aids in the development of plant proteins and helps with the strengthening of stems and branches.
- Iron — is important for chlorophyll production. Iron deficiencies often present themselves as a yellowing of the leaves between the leaf’s veins (nueinal chlorosis).
- Molybdenum — helps to process nitrogen.
So if you have a ph problem and any of these go out of the sweet spot a long domino effect can happen. It depends how far along things are and only you can really asses that.
The easiest and fastest way to get the micros to your plant is via salt based micro nutrient line this
A really great way organically is via alfalfa meal and kelp. Alfalfa meal is a relatively high-nitrogen natural fertilizer. It provides a wealth of other nutrients, vitamins, and minerals to your plants, including: phosphorus, magnesium, potassium, calcium, sulfur, boron, iron, and zinc.Yiu can use teas, top dressing but I would recommend watering in the teas for faster absorption.
Kelp meal contains over 70 different vitamins and minerals. It helps promote overall plant health, vigor, and tolerance to stress, pests , and disease. It is also a renewable, sustainable resource – so that’s a huge plus.
Neem seed meal enhances microbial activity, making your soil even more alive! It also strengthens root systems, and can help control unwanted nematode populations, fungus, and soil pathogens.
Alfalfa meal is a relatively high-nitrogen natural fertilizer. It provides a wealth of other nutrients, vitamins, and minerals to your plants, including: phosphorus, magnesium, potassium, calcium, sulfur, boron, iron, and zinc.
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Great information man. Much appreciated!
I grow organically and I grow outdoor. And I know one of the things I use has those things in it, like kelp and alfalfa meals. I use “craft blend” from (build a soil). That stuff has a bunch of things in it.
I’m also using calmag to try and correct this problem and I think I see it working on the bottom of the plant just not the top yet. Maybe I’m not using it enough and I think that’s because I can’t water the plant as much as I’d like to because of the rain. it’s already doing that. And I know that if it’s going to rain in the next couple days that I’m not going to water my plants, even if they need it. Because then they would be overwatered.
But, like you said, trial and error. I’ve been growing outdoor for years and I’ve never come across this problem and this is the first time I’ve used this soil, so I am blaming it on the soil. Haha! The soil just doesn’t go with the things I’m using I guess. So I guess I’ve learned my lesson. Don’t use this particular soil. I’m sure the soil is good, it just doesn’t work for me and what I put into my custom blend and my outdoor growing and all things combined. It also has something called yucca in it. Which I don’t know a whole lot about. I guess it’s some type of natural plant based wetting agent. Maybe that’s keeping my soil to wet for too long between waterings and or rain. I don’t know.
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If they were my plants I would flush the shit out of them with pH’d water and then add just a small dose of ferts.
Hard reset. Hopefully flush out what’s in that soil too. Then use your bottled bloom fert as scheduled.
9 times out of 10 a micronutrient issue is really a pH issue.
That’s what I would do. And rip off the ugly bits.
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If they are outside. You know the rain is pushing your nutrients right out.
@Foreigner and @George has some good advice.
After it rains feed them. Drop the ph down. 5.6 and up to 6. The reason why I say that to combat the higher pH when it rains. Plus, Rain Water is acidic IMOP
Definitely some deficiencies. You can maybe take some tinfoil and try to wrap them around the stalk and the cover of your pots.
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One plant was too far gone, so I just cut it down. The other one is coming back. Calmag, a little fertilizer and some 6.5 water all seem to of helped this. But not the tops of the plant. they were too far gone. The rest of the plant is coming back pretty good and healthy. So I just cut all those tips/tops off. But this main stem that I cut is pretty exposed and it’s the only thing I’m worried about now. What can I do to this fresh cut to protect it and protect the plant. I don’t want bugs or rot getting in here.
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All the new fresh growth is starting to bud just like the rest of my plants. I even have a plant right next to this one of the same cultivar from the same group of seeds. But the growth that was yellow and too far gone wasn’t doing anything. It was basically dead and no growth not budding, nothing. So I figured I’d cut it off and let the plant focus on the growth that was budding. I couldn’t wait to see what this dead yellow growth was going to do.
So the plant in these early photos I cut down and composted. The second plant had the same exact problem but like I said in this post (or my other one) calmag and some Dr Zymes seem to bring it back. The damage Growth was too far gone so I cut it off, but all the new growth looks good so far. When that “too far gone growth“ started coming back, (I think because of the calmag and properly pH, the water) the leaves were deformed because of how bad they were deformed from the problem. It’s like the green was breaking through the yellow, I think that’s why they’re curling and misshapen. But from my research, some of these signs and symptoms are also a result of Hemp russet mites maybe?
Do I just keep adding the koolbloom and no other nutes to keep N low?
I am getting some tip burn finally and maybe the start of some claw or even some lockout using the GH floranova bloom only at a total of 750ppm or less per feed. I recently started adding Koolbloom with a tiny bit less floranova bloom. Leaves are super dark. Since this is week 5 or 6 flower with run times of 9 to 12 weeks, i expected nutrient requirements to go up a lot. I think i need to dial down the nutes. I’ve been giving low or no nutes the lasts few waterings. This last one was koolbloom at 75% dose and water.
Is there a solution by controlling ph?
Also, the plants with the biggest problems are very NLD. A few plants don’t care about the nute levels.