@Couchlocked I remember my HID days. You’ll get the hang of the new fancy LEDs. You should notice a difference in electric bills. Bonus
I don’t know why manufacturers say that you can put them 8" from the canopy. They do create less heat than HID. But they still create heat. If I can’t hold my hand comfortably under the light at canopy level then it’s too close.
Edited to correct my unintelligibleness.
Turns out my issue was leaf temps.
Can’t run room at 75 like hps with led without intense ir
Upped temps, problem solved.
Was gonna add t5s to the cabs for veg (flower tent has all the bells and whistles, additional uv strips and ir strips between my medic grow Smart 8+ bars.
What gets me is why manufacturers would eliminate ir addition.
I get the science of it not directly powering photosynthesis, but it has others things it does secondary that’s critical to letting photosynthesis happen correctly. Main things being plant metabolism.
But have you figured out your issues?
Question, are you running any heavy kelp supps or overdoing recharge?
Recharge is one myco inoc that you can definitely over apply. Due to its heavy additions of humic and kelp.
One reason i always stick to Great white, has the most comprehensive and diverse population of Endo and ecto Mycorrhiza and bacteria and trichoderma.
Most other products fall short. Also it’s only Bennie’s.
But heavy kelp can cause some oddball leaf expressions due to being heavy in NATURAL pgr’s
All bennies aint the same. I agree Recharge can be used too much. One time i used it like week 5F and it wasn’t cool. These phosphorus specific ones are the shit. Seems to make my plants frostier.
Grow on
Edit: LABS used up to week 4F.
Do you dilute LABS? 
@George I do. Like .5-1 tbls per gallon. Been mixing with Banana tea recently.
Peels and molasses in fridge over a year.
Edit: first time using Microbial Mass, dude gave me a sample, but thats my 3rd bag of Mega Phos.
Thanks, I’ve switched to organic recently (the lazy way: prefertilized soil) and still have to learn what to add when depleted… 
I use general hydroponic three part with the addition of silica, calmag, koolbloom and Cannazym. Cannazym only used durning flower at half strength
Untill the last week. Only change with my set up is the use of new IPM and bringing new snips into the garden. I was unsure of cause of mutation. I have a tendency to jump to the worst conclusion. I was thinking. maybe it’s some sort of virus that was brought in with new snips? when I first sprayed new ipm. There was a tiny bit of burning on leaf tips/serrations. Monitored for another day or two With no change too leaves. Then I started seeing mutations on new growth. The new IPM was not the first thing to mind Considering mutation wasn’t happening to all of the cultivars And it looked like it was spreading started with one plant.Then the plant next to it then the plant on the other side of it. Looks to me like they’re growing out of the mutations
I have sence sprayed same IPM at 1/2 Strength on undamaged cultavirs. no damage occurred.
Hi MOX, it looks genetics and mutation so not related with fertz or virus imo.
What is the strain?
Im willing to bet a localized mutation due to the ipm spray. Ive seen this after spraying potassium salts of fatty acid in the sunlight.
Not Sure what causes it, but likely your plants have grown past it by now?
I believe that was alien o g. They are growing out of it now
Yes, they have grown past. look messed up but grown past.
I had this problem several times and couldn’t figure out what the problem was. I asked friends, sent photos on forums, to expert growers, but everyone gave me a different answer and most thought they were mites(broad/russet mite). I looked above and below the leaves with the microscope for hours and hours but nothing… I couldn’t find any mites or eggs and it didn’t spread to the other plants. I finally understood that it is a root problem(look if yours roots are a healty white color or yellow/brownish) , but always linked to too much humidity, not circulated air or sprayed products. Sometimes I gave anti-mite products and the situation worsened precisely because I increased humidity. After transplanting them and improved air circulation I have always solved the problem. If the leaves turn yellow, recovery times become quite long.
Welcome to overgrow.
Thanks but that’s not it. It was the alcohol in the IPM.
Burned the Leaves while they were small and in mature.
