Can someone confirm mag def?

Using promix hp, perlite. 3gal fabric.
Mega crop, kelp, cal mag, Silica and yucca. Was feeding at 1.2 ec until last feeding. (cal mag def early in veg)
PH between 6 to 6.5
Stopped with the silica, and dropped the ec to .8 because they looked like they were starting to get some burnt tips.
I think I’ve made a mistake and have never added epsom salt.
Thoughts growchachos?

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Looks more like K issues,not Magnesium at all

@George he knows Better :sunglasses:

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That’s a bummer…
I questioned the bag of free MC I got. Has a huge baseball clump that I never broke up. But they assured me it was ok.
Just using the loose MC around it. Wonder if all the K is in the clump? If that’s even a possibility.
Ty

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Well,I think Someone wiser than me with MC Will chime in,what I can Say Is that all the K can’t be in that cluster.Seems difficult to me.
Can you give more pics of the underneath leaves?
Also,do you mix It in the right order?
SILICA(WAIT LIKE 20-30 MINUTES)-CALMAG(WAIT A BIT)-BASE NUTE-ADDITIVES/ENZYMES-PH UP OR DOWN

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Kinda. Silica first, wait an hr. Add mc and kelp that I put into a warm solo cup of water and mix that dill desolved. Add that.
Then cal may and Ph down to 6.5ish

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Start by mixing Calmag before the Base nute,I would also work Silica out of the feed during flowering,then all those burnt tips look like a K issue.K Is a mobile element and It started Indeed in the lowest leaves.
Have a read here.

What I Guess Is Silica or the order you mixed the solution made a pH issues or some reactions between the elements in the Nutrient solution giving some lockout.
I don’t run Promix but It Is soilles mix,I run Coco coir and can’t tell you for sure where are the issues,but can tell you that leaves are looking like a K mixed Calcium issue

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Also,you do you tap or RO Water?

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Tap.
And thanks. This definitely looks like the problem.
It says to add a bloom booster and see in a week.
I picked this up because I couldn’t source any green leaf bud explosion.
I didn’t use it cus I’m obviously noob central and didn’t know if I should add or use on its own.


The only thing around at the time
Or just do the right order… Don’t change to much at once?

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At the moment,I would feed with the right order,trying to get silica away,run the base MC and maybe calmag,until you dialed in you Base feed.
K Is also responsible for stomata opening and so transpiration rates,together with environmental factor like VPD and your light source and Power!
Calcium Is best absorbed when transpiration rates are good enough,long story short:if your environment Is not decent and you have not decent transpiration you are gonna see Cal deficiency even tho you put It on the feed.So you put more and more and the Plant Will go on lockout soon.
The strenght of your solution must be dialed with you environment.Takes Just time and practice don’t be afraid.

Again what I would do Is light feeding with base Nutrient,calmag maybe and see how It reacts in a matter of days.

Also,your tap could be the issue,do you have a water analysis ?Is It city or well water?

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I circled around for 5 or 7 months before I understood that my tap could be the issue,when I went RO I Just confirmed It was Indeed my bad water quality affecting all the Nutrient uptake by too much hardness.I started diluting the tap with Ro and I solved 80% of my issues
Get some analysis of you can and start by using only the Base nute and calmag with the right pH.
Also get some runoff too to push the salts of the last feed away

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Awsome Andrexl!
Will do. There is a store next door to me that I call fill with RO. It’s just very difficult to lug up 2 flights of stairs with a broken body :wink:
I’ve git the report. I just don’t know what I’m looking for.
I know it’s chlorine and not chloramine.
PH is 8.
Ro mix with reg water and base mc, kelp and cal mag, next feeding
No silica…

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You can buy a cheap Ro 3 stage filter,you clamp It to your faucet and you have pretty good Ro water without having to transport It from outside the house.
Just post the values you got from tap water,Someone Will chime in and help too,a lot of people does Promix
Important values:Sodium,Ca,Mg,water hardness ppms
Feel free to hit my private messages whatever you Need,I Always ask asap

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Calmag first , mix , then base feed , mix ,

Silica I only use as ph up , if needed
And in flower I don’t use silica , I just use regular ph up if it’s needed

: )

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I agree with K and nutrient burn, too much Calcium and Magnesium may have blocked it … icon_e_confused|nullxnull

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pH is too high for pro mix. EC is pretty low too at 1.2. 0.8 is way too low IMO. If you’re using the one part Megacrop it already has Ca and Mg so adding more is not really necessary. I would just majorly bump up the EC to 2-2.5 of just megacrop until you get runoff. Make sure the pH going in is between 5.5-6.2 (5.8 is a good spot to start).

I wouldn’t bother with any of the additives to make things more simple. Pro mix HP already has a wetting agent so as long as you don’t let it dry to the point of becoming hydrophobic you’ll probably be good.

It’s a common misconception that burnt tips mean too much nutes but IME it’s actually a deficiency. I think it might have to do with the plant not being able to bring enough Ca (passive uptake/immobile nutrient) to a fast growing plant due to the stoma possibly being closed due to low relative humidity or drought stress. Although I don’t think that’s the only possible reason.

The unfortunate thing is those leaves aren’t going to get nice and green again but you should be able to stop or slow down the spread of it.

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Thanks for all the input fellas.
I guess it’s back to basics.
Tap water it’s good. Vancouver BC. RO is not an option in apartment.
Just going to try MC only and Ph to 5.8
Start there and see if any improvements over the next couple of days.
Keep it simple. But it’s not :wink:

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It s about trial and error too.
You ll get It,you LL get to know what Is best for your environmental settings too.
Just takes some time and trials

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I’ve got inkbirds setup for humidity and temp. They have never been over 85 degrees and 60% humidity. Was at 70 during veg. So not sure. Always have been in vpd range according to the chart

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That’s some very good starting point,you have some nice gauge,I have the same Two meters
You Need an Ir thermometer to measure leaves temperature and do your vpd calculations

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Sry. Got that as well.
Averages around 3 to 5 degree cooler :+1:
Learned alot from my first grow using gaia green organic but screwed up topdress and n burnt the shit outa them.
The disappointment is real.
But that’s to y’all, hopefully I’ll learn even more.
Update later when I’m home from work and lights turnon

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