Thanks Swe-can, none of this would be happening without you and your contribution! 
#52 has amazing warty trunk development. It really wants to pop roots and branches from those nodules.
Oh, and the Runt? It turned out to be male, still the runt but looks great!
If this plays out according to plan we will have a full āgenetic libraryā of all 15 crosses.
LOL, TRUE!
I stand correctedā¦ moderately stoner proofā¦ because we all know Nothing is totally stoner proof. 
Cheers
G
Itās all you @Gpaw !!
Sad that the runt wasnāt a female, but you have a lot to play with!
that is a simple fact 
or the world will build a better stoner 
Hey @Gpaw. I think your experiment went pretty well. 5 for the experiment 3 for the control are pretty good numbers. But I agree I would like to see the test again to draw a final conclusion.
Every thing looks great. Come a long way since the last time I poped in. How much flower to pollin did you use? Iāve heard to use as much flower as there is pollin. Iām verry excited to see if they took. to your proticalls. Loved how you used pollin from diffrent from diffrent males on the same female. Bet it took quite some time to do it properly. The amount of data you will get makes up for it. Keep up the good work man!
It took 2 days to do the initial pollination, but it could have been done in one, 12 Hr day. 
Basically 10 min. of work and leave them alone for 2 Hrs.
Like anything shiny new, you see 3 or 4 ways to improve it next time. Iām busy scribbling notesā¦ 
Flour to pollen was about 5:1.
5:1 and 10:1 ratios popped up several times in my research (Iām sure some of these sources ācribā off each other).
Saw one reference saying you could go up to 100:1. 
All in all, it is a bit more work but a lot of the guesswork is removed. You end up with known groups of siblings, 1/2 siblings and cousins.
If by fluke, you catch a unicorn you know where to look for more.
Cheers
G
Been a little whole since I popped in. Things are looking nice in your grow! Some really cool experiments too. Iāll have to try and remember to stop in more often
And Iāll try to update more often.
Iām in the long boring dog-days of flower right now.
But we do have beans growing on the Cool Runnings crew. So far I see one bean only on one of the Sour Strawberries (Iām sure thereās a few more).
It looks like my light calculations were off (on the high side of courseā¦)
Iām getting some foxtailing and light stress but all considered, it looks successful
(plenty of items to improve on & donāt count the beans before they ripen ).
Iāll post a proper update shortlyā¦ 
Cheers G
Time for a short blurb on a side project.
Part of my protocol (Ver. 0.1 in development 
) is to take clones of the parent plants.
For the Cool Runnings project this happened Jan 13, 2021.
Jan 13. I took one lower branch of each plant (typically node 2) and fired up my cloner for the inaugural run.
After a couple weeks we had roots (8 out of 8). That was interesting, you wait and wait for the roots to develop and when they do ~ Boom, lots of roots!
The rooted clones were transplanted into 5.5ā pots & installed in my temporary clone mother set-up. The lights were selected for vegging so way over powered, but with the dimming option, they are knocked down to about 10% power, thatās about 3K lux at 10~11ā canopy level. (running 18/6)
The object of this exercise is to see how slow I can go and still have them healthy.
After thinking and researching about optimal mother structures. I pruned them all leaving about 3 nodes on the main stem. Letting the side branches slowly grow and taking cuts (all viable for more clones but fed to the worms) I always leave one node attached to the structure as a future bud site.
To recap: 3 nodes (6 bud sites) on the main stem, each side branch trimmed also has a node (2 bud sites).
The tops I had cut off initially, I used to experiment with simple cloning (threw them into a glass of water, 2 out of 4 rooted)
Last week I tweaked the lights up to 6K lux for a week to see the response. The response was rapid growth!
So I dialed the lights back to 3k lux. NOTE: this translates to 3.3 watts per square foot.
Here we are 10 weeks since cutting with the current photo, about 11ā tall and āitching to put the pedal downāā¦
I have both males and females here. I have learned to keep an eyeball on the males as they like to pop pre-flowers.
Keeping the lights low dramatically slows the growth and minimizes water & nutriment requirements. They are not quite frozen in stasis but close! The cool thing is when you want cuttings just up the lights for a week or two. Then slow them back down. Next question is how long can I keep the mothers going at this level?
Cheers
G
Hey, just reading your issues and problem solving as I may be having some similarā¦ in trying not to exhaust much to keep your humidity up, how do you keep your temps down?
I am currently testing my setup and if I donāt exhaust my temps sky rocket to like 110F+ (still goin up/testing)ā¦ this is only at approx 33K lux also
Keeping the temps down in the lung room (spare bedroom) has been an ongoing set of skirmishes 
I get a lot of sun on that wall; there is 2" of reflective insulation in the window to keep that from becoming a solar cooker.
Iāve added 2 passive cold air return vents into a closet wall (one up high) to keep the heat from pooling.
The hot air vent is completely blocked right now. Air comes in under the door.
When the A/C comes on Iāll open that vent up wide.
The light I built has the drivers external to the tent (30~50 watts of heat)
When I installed the AC Infinity, I used insulated ducts in order to keep the heat from leaking into the lung room. The sound deadening is just bonus.
I think I could run in the summer now (last year was too hot, larfy buds) weāll see!
In hindsight, setting up in the basement would have made better sense thermally.
Cheers
G
Funny you mention a couple things, I have my driver external and am also in the basement and Iām still strugglingā¦
Once I get my humidifier finally up and running, am hoping I can crank up the exhaust a lil bit for a decent balanceā¦
My basement/lung room ranges from approx 67F to maybe max 73Fā¦
Iām only using cpu fans for my ventilation, one for intake and one for exhaust and itās only for a 24x24 x36ā high grow boxā¦
Any more ideas on cooling it down besides AC?
AC Infinity is a game changer.
In the wold of fans, back-pressure is right after CFM in importance. The mixed flow fans (Infinity, Vortex, etc) handle back-pressure better than axial (cpu fans).
Fun fact: one foot of the āslinkyā style flexible ducting we all use is equal (in air resistance) to 10 feet of sheet metal duct of the same diameter.
For your setup a 4" AC Infinity is more than enoughā¦ Unless you are thinking of expansion down the road.
Hereās some data I generated when playing with mine.
Where the Infinity āreally shinesā is the controllerā¦ both temp & RH regulated
Your RH has a tendency to spike after lights-out due to falling temps. This can lead to mould issues in later flower.
My setup right now is max temp = 82F, min temp = off, Max RH = 53%, min RH = off
max alarm temp = 85F, max alarm RH = 58%. fan on setting = 4
(82F sounds high but my leaf temps are 74 ~ 76F)
So what happens?
During the day the fan regulates the temp to 82F by changing the fan speed from 0 to 4 (slow change in speed as it ramps up and down) at night, the max RH is controlling the fan.
Why is there a max setting and max alarm setting?
Thatās the safety net!
If the temps creep up past 82F (fan running at 4) when it hits 85F the fan shifts to level 10
Belt and suspenders
No surprise my recommendation is āget a AC Infinityā. Even though you donāt need it, Iād suggest a 6" as this will allow you greater flexibility later if you decide to reconfigure your grow areas. The 6" pushes twice the air flow (400CFM vs 200CFM) for 30$ more.
Cheers
G
Nice info. I want both the 4 and 6 
Lately Iāve been looking at Infinityās Cabinet fan systems.
(been thinking about building a 2ā x 4ā x 7ā cabinet)
Specifically, the āController 8ā, it handles 4 zones (4 separate sensors) and 30W of fan per section.
They tell you their fans are customā¦ ā¦sort of, not really
Cheers
G
I have experienced all of that. At first I had no ducting and about 1ā between cpu fans and carbon filters; that made the fans essentially push the air backwards lol
I then added ducting which allowed my setup to push/pull sufficiently actually
So I think here possibly lies my issue. Are those settings for a flower room? It seems a lil dry on the VPD scale for veg no?
And so back to my issue, if wanting a higher RH, basically the more I turn on the fans to cool things down, then I lose the RH.
Fortunately for me Iām running a cap mat setup which def helps with the RH, and I just added a baby humidifier so Iāll see if I can now exhaust more (I put my cpu fans on a pwm, lowest setting for now) without the sacrifice). So far, my low light propagation/early veg is looking fine now, but the later veg may be an issue.
Maybe Iām shooting for too high of an RH.
Right now my low light setting, I got approx 82F and 82% RH, so that I can prob play with in either direction just by simply venting more/less (*this usually effect the rh more tho, or faster I should prob say)
Havenāt tested the high lux scenario with new humidifier yet tho, but I have my doubts.
I have some cheap rh/temp controllers and in fact I think I will employ two on timers (day/night settings) that control the intake/exhaust fans together.
I may or may not hook my humidifier into the controller as well but I have to give that more thought (might have to make a normally closed connection so it turns off when it goes above X% when the fans then turn on, or, maybe a simpler setup where the temp control is tied to the fans and the Rh control does the humidifier?)
Iām all for that (overkill/expansion options later modo 
) except I have prob 20+ cpu fans that were gifted to me so trying to make use of them.
This post might be edited a few times lol
Yes, Iām in late flower. I was running 65% during veg.
I could regulate the tent as low as setting 2 (during cooler temps in the lung room) & the RH was only minimally affected (-5%). I was shocked how little power it required, My previous setup was pulling 22W & I thought that was good, setting #2 is pulling 2 wattsā¦ Now Iām running at #4, thatās 7 watts.
It is the volume of air moved that will affect the RH & being a smaller volume that will swing quicker (and recover quicker).
Iām thinking your filter is adding significant back-pressure to your exhaust fan, Iād suggest an experiment, try disconnecting the filter and see how it affects temp. and RH (assuming the plants arenāt too stinky yet). I doubt it will directly help the RH but if you can get to a reasonable on/off duty cycle the RH will have an opportunity to recover during the off cycle.
Donāt ditch those computer fans, they are great for stirring the air in the grow environment.
Cheers
G
Ok, I like the idea of revisiting the duty cycle, maybe I could increase my temp control on/off range and increase fan speed (before trying to remove the filter; itās not stink but Iām looking down the road a bit)ā¦
I believe you are correct and it might be a good strategy to sort of take a min to get the temps down and just sacrifice the RH for that moment as it should bounce back faster than the tempsā¦ the only thing is, my box is made out of foam insulation, so it might tend to hold that temp a lil better than a tentā¦
Also an update, as my lights got hotter, the fan (at lowest pwm setting) has stayed on and now itās seems pretty stable at 82F and 65% RH coincidentally lol
Rooting for the runt
