It does in my experience, and that of several others I’ve read. Seems like the 2.0 formulation is somewhat better, according to my cheap ph pen.
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I have found the same thing. MC2.0 is quite an improvement IMO. One Love…
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pH will rise with bubbling to begin its just the way the process works, try bubbling just pH lowered water and take some measurements if your interested but i wont go further into that. pH also rises over time as the plant consumes, but for me bigger spikes in pH have typically been due to bacteria/algae growth. In general say i put in at 5.8ish by the time that fill has almost run out im at 6.2ish depending.
As for PPM thats my objective with keeping it the same, its a decent way to tell what your plants are doing, Say for example PPM are increasing over time but gradually to me that shows the plant isn’t consuming everything it gets, big spikes or more drastic changes typically shows potential system evaporation or lock outs, if PPM’s drop means the plants want more food. So saying that i measure every time i mix up a new fill, but im also measuring whats left at the end, i don’t always check it at the end but it allows me to fine tune things if needed and typically i only check my pH when something is off, just cause it pretty consistent for what goes in, just water, megacrop, and a bit of calcium hypochlorite “dead res” which puts me in a happy pH range consistently.
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Day 71/28
Well left side started having some deficiencies and looking like they were hungry which they were, but pH also shot up to 7.2ish, diatoms or brown algae or whatever was the likely culprit, so did a clean and fill and is being fed at 1100ppm ill be watching the pH a bit and keeping up on the calcium hypochlorite just to try and get whatever it was in check.
Also the peppers and basil are starting, and dropped a bunch of seeds so should have a new round going shortly.
As for the other side, yep they be fading and aging most i want to still give some more time i just be watching them start to retreat and go more brown, obviously looking at seed ripeness here but what
noticed is when the calyx’s start going brown your seeds are usually good to go.
Saying that “The Fuzz” came down today, i chopped a few of the tops off a couple days ago here are those after a little trim, i just let them dry and collected seeds from them tonight
The seeds from it so far, figure ill probably double or triple this once i work through the rest of the plant.
And what was left of it before the scissors came out tonight, chopity chop.
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Could there be a residual someting or “whatever” effect from the ‘pool shock’ whatevering? 
Diatoms ripping away at your nutes with their claws 
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@Mr.Sparkle I’m very inspired by your grows. You are the master of small spaces! Can you help me understand what the strategy is to keeping plants this small?
- 12/12 from seed or autos
- small containers
- supercropping
Have you ever run into any strains that you couldn’t control inside the space? Equatorial sativas would probably do it, but are most hybrids/indicas generally OK to work with?
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Autos
Yep
Yep
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If anything it’s cause the amount I use is skirting the lower limits of effective use and is non existent after a couple days so if say something does take hold it usually will take a “shock” of a higher concentration and keeping up on it to counter act it.
Saying that, that res was back at 6.6 this morning so I made a new batch and upped the calcium hypochlorite, I really need to try running it at a higher initial level because I don’t come back after a couple days and re add like one should to bring the concentration back to effective levels, so we will see but hey change my levels to counter act my own habits lol.
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Rekio gave the basis of it but honestly root limiting is the most effective way to keep things in check, but if plants are fighting each other for space and light it will be a challenge as well, I don’t pack in pots like I use too anymore because of that, so it’s just finding that balance for the space your in and how many plants you want to run.
But most all plants can be run considering above some just need more training than others.
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Good day @Mr.Sparkle. I hope you’re well. Your “teenincie” dark beauties are striking! I can taste it now! Do you consider “flopping” LST? Do you ever tie down or just supercrop? Are you flopping autos or is that not recommended? I believe I’ve used my quota of questions for now, but I’ll be back! Much love and respect my friend.
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I have found that the small size of autos means their height differences are more pronounced than say photo plants… and without using elevators on the “shorties” or burning the tops of the leggy 
ones & starting a fire, the Sparklejutsu-fu bondage 
is the only reasonable & logical thing to do(in a confined space).
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Thanks @cannabissequoia. I always knew they don’t tolerate topping well. My Divyder is in the veg tent with my seedlings. Had to elevate seedlings and tie down the Divyder. I was Leary of “flopping” the top of the Divyder for fear she would just stop growing. She doesn’t seem to mind bondage.
I found my Happy Frog mix is too hot for some autos. I don’t even consider feeding them for the first 3 weeks. Always learning!
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Do I need to adjust my screen, or are those seeds actually kinda purple?
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Scrolled and can’t find it. I’m Curious what the purple strain is?
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‘DARK Sparks’ 
DarkDevil F3 
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If done right yes, but its more a HST technique if done more aggressively like supercropping. I do both if needed, and auto or photo i do what is needed to keep things in check and to get somewhat even canopies.
I disagree but i also grow on the smaller side, saying that some auto’s like rekios divyder’s for example most likely due to the lowryder side in them do stay quite small, but i also haven’t grown one out to completion so :shrug:.
Well one the photo does have a blue tint to it, but the purple pigment is therein the seeds because they pretty much match the calyxes they are in, but they will go brown as that pigment degrades with time.
@cannabissequoia is somewhat correct in thats what ive said they are in this thread aka"Dark Sparks or DD F3’s well for this round of these seeds anyways", But they are actually probably a F4 or more, they are just F3’s in my handling ;), but at this point they are different than where they came from thus me just calling them Dark Sparks the name have more meaning just cause i plant to branch off from here using those sparks of inspirations to maybe make some great fire in the end 
haha
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Nice 
it looks like a very unique strain. Has great colouring.
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I’d really have to start catalog-ing to verify my suspicious hunch. 
…I always was an A- student 
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Thanks for your guidance and time my friend.
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Figured i should take some shots for myself of how these plants looked at the far far end of their life before they get chopped this weekend. Will be exciting to see what comes from them and carries on.
73 Days “So Long lol”
“Da Greens” green pheno
“Easy”
“Aubergine Toots MaGoots”
“Dark Spark”
Also a sappy sugary bonus shot, tasted good.
Also add a quick update for the left side, now that the pH/bacteria/brow algae issue is startling to get in check the plants are startling to do pretty decent, but they are running out of time, oh well.
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