That might be better for me. Thank you. I’ll look into it.
I use Epsom, per the 3-2-1 ratios, but I’m thinking a quick foliar might be in order.
I know Jacks is widely touted, but at this point I’d use Miracle Grow if I got better results. Definitely not faulting Jacks here, but way open to any other dry fertilizer suggestions.
Just a thought… but when I get something odd going on with a plant I do a “Nectar Flush”.
Mix up some Herculean Harvest from Nectar for the Gods (micronized bone meal suspension) and water until you get lots of runoff and have likely flushed any bad residue from the root zone. Then resume your regular routine when it’s ready for more water.
Anyone else do this?
Unfortunately it is far to slow acting to be used as a pH up. Most commercial pH up is potassium carbonate.
I guess I’m late to the thread but what I see in those pics is nute burn. I don’t see any heat damage, I don’t see pH problems, and I don’t see any deficiencies. I mean, there’s plenty of good advice in here so far, so follow all of the advice, but what I see in your plants, in those reasonably good pics, is overfeeding, and you should back off on the amount of that fertilizer you’re mixing up.
I think if that was nute burn, all the leafs would have it, wouldn’t they?
Thank you @hush!
I appreciate the diversity of perspectives and I’m trying to let all the arguments play out, rather than jump to conclusions.
If it makes a difference, regular strength Jacks 3-2-1 comes out about 650 ppm for me and I walked it up to 800 ppm before walking it back down. The increased strength didn’t seem to make the problem worse, it just continued on its path. I’m open to dropping it further, since I heard K lock out can also be bad for Magnesium.
Nope. It has a lot to do with mobility of elements, but generally no the entire plant is usually not affected to the same degree at the same time. There are old leaves and new leaves, growth tips that are secondary to secondary branches, etc. No one can ever say for sure based on pics alone, all I’m saying is those pics are suggesting that general overfeeding is occurring.
It’s possible that it’s a bad batch of Jack’s, or possibly the plants there specifically don’t get what they are wanting. It’s possible they are just light-feeders. But the leaf tips curling up with that white/orange fade and other subtle hints just really suggest that it’s general overfeeding. Again, though, no one can say for sure from pics alone.
It’s all new to me.
I’ve only ever seen yellowing from deficiency (or senescence), claw from excess, and darkening from excess. Here I’ve got yellowing, tip burn, and upward tip curl starting before the burn.
There definitely are a lot of factors to consider. I’m sure I haven’t seen every possible deficiency or excess (with my encyclopedic knowledge of growing, lol), so I’m split about which direction to look here.
I could try for a double solution, though. Apply a Mag foliar and water in a flush followed by 3/4 strength feed.
Oh, and also remove the RO membrane from my filter. That will be closer to tap, hopefully without whatever made it taste funky.
OK.
Applied foliar at 1/2 tsp epsom to 2 cups water, in both veg and bloom.
Dumped the old reservoir and remixing a new one at 3/4 strength Jacks 3-2-1.
PPM now reads 485. No idea about pH, since I’m disregarding my old pH pen.
That looks like a K deficiency to me.
Thank you @SeymourGreen!
I still want to drill down on whether the appearance of K deficiency means it is actually deficient in K, or if the present K is unavailable because of a lockout. Kind of a symptom vs underlying problem situation. If it’s excess K causing a lockout, affecting both K and Mag, then I wouldn’t treat it like a deficiency even though it looks like one.
Speaking of which, my understanding of K lock issues in coco is very limited. I could be way off base, so please step in if I’m misstating anything. What I recall is 1. occurs in coco 2. can be complicated by buffering and washing coco or lack thereof 3. makes K and Mag unavailable or reduces their mobility 4. can be affected by pH changes 5. can cause people to chase the Mag deficiency train because it significantly reduces available Mag.
Your right about all of the above lol! I usually don’t run into K deficiencies in veg in coco but, the times I have it was always the result of my ph being off causing the potassium to be unavailable to the plants. Now I rinse, buffer, and charge all the coco I use even canna and cyco.
What do you buffer with?
Just soak it in full strength cal/mag water for a few hours. About 5 ml a gallon.
Do you not have the calibration solutions?
I do have them.
I’m not sure this is a matter of calibration as much as a defective unit that failed. I tested it with the calibration solution but did not use the calibration function because the readings were bouncing so wildly. I’m in the process of returning it now. I’ll recalibrate it and see if it behaves.
Still haven’t calibrated that pH pen to test it, but I’m getting a replacement.
Meanwhile, watering today I found nanners on one of my “girls” on lower bloom sites. 
Guess that’s one less cut I have to hold, while I look through the test pack. Truly, it’s easy to think one of the stressors I added could be the reason for the hermie. I can’t deny the possibility, but even susceptibility to hermaphroditism is a trait I’ll not pass down. Now I know to keep my eyes peeled on this batch of testers, though.
Good thing it’s all going to hash!
New tent, same coco (but thoroughly washed and buffered this time), more light, 600 ppm, 6.14 pH, temps between 75-79, rH between 51-58.
All the girls looked fine last week. I brought the lights down to 16" off the canopy and I get this response
Some more
It’s very frustrating. This should not be so hard. I’m also puzzled about why my girls seem to be doing better with lights 24", and higher, off the canopy. It’s not heat stress.
Ugh.
At least the babies cheer me up.
HALP
