I do not use coco. But I am certain fresh coco is often a problem.
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This should be perfect in hydroponic and slightly low for soil.
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Ok. So guess my issue was bottom feeding caused the issue? I use peat pots and after its leaves touched the side I bottom feed. Then put direct into its final home a few days after.
So Iām just over complicating things and hand water, and Iāll wait till the roots are going through the pot,then put in its final home. Is that a good plan?
And the 2 mini ones, i guess my light burnt it.
@99PerCent thought above 6.2 was bad. Just read between 5.2 and 6.8 is good. Does the above sound like the issues? Seeing ph going in was 5.5 and any feed after that I let it creep up in a bucket.
Sorry high as hell and not sure if that makes sense lol
I finished the flushing, but thanks for the tip for next time.
Iām hoping the recover Iāll just let them be. More than enough water for them for awhile.
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If you check out the hydro FAQās, I bet you find answers to most of the questions you have.
My recollection was that 6.3 was the sweet spot for hydro, and 6.7 was the proper range for soil.
Good luck and keep seedinā
99
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Interesting. Your runoff was 6.5? Thatās my input feed, 6.5 is my sweet spot, I get lockout below 6 in soilless/coco. Your plants looked sorta low-pH with the chlorotic coloration and eagle clawing. Is it possible your pH pen needs calibration? I also typically have low pH issues in coco, not high. But if your runoff is fine, maybe itās another issue?
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Iāve been starting at 5.5ph and letting it drift to around 6 and have had success with that on a 4 plants. Only change has been new lights.
Another grower here runs it successful here and Iāve been following it on one of my plants and it looks great.
Iāll see how they are over the next few days. Also going to a convention tomorrow and Iāll get a few books to read. Iām clearly doing something wrong.
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Yāall have WAY more patience than me. I wonāt touch anything that requires a ph pen. lol
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Iām all about the pH drops and runoff pH rather than input. Pens fail constantly, and quite literally everyone has a story where a pH pen was giving false readings. Drops are less precise than a well-calibrated pen, but they never lie. Yellow is always yellow, green is always green. If your eyes work, the drops work. Iāll occasionally test pH as a prophylactic measure but mostly I just try to read the plants. Eagle claw with lime green growth/unusually defined veins means too low, pine needle green with holes in the leaves means too high.
My problem is almost ALWAYS too low; I can count on one hand how many times Iāve had high pH issues (pure perlite/vermiculite will do it). Coco seems to drop my pH like a bad habit, doesnāt matter the brand or the format, brick, bagged, Canna, Botanicare, GH, Roots, you name it, always low pH. Conventional wisdom says run 5.5-6.2 but I find 6.2-6.5 (greenish yellow) to be the sweet spot for soilless/coco/perlite/rockwool. Soft or hard water, doesnāt matter. Active hydro with a reservoir, yeah around 6.0 (piss yellow) is perfect, to account for pH rise as nutrients are consumed.
Soil/water only/organic is a whole 'nother can of worms. You guys are more art than science.
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I went organic this year. Sent my soil to a lab got all the readings and amended to proper nutrient levels. It was all science.
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Yes and no. Extension office can test soil for outdoor, but assuming weāre talking indoor, high production per cu. ft. of soil, itās more your read on something than simple pH, ppm, EC, what have you with calnit and micro/NPK. The science breaks down when youāre adding bat shit and bone meal in compost rather than mineral salts in inert media. Guideline rather than X=Y. Just my read on it I guess. I have a cursory understanding of organics related to hydroponics, so maybe Iām way off base here.
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I also have a cursory understanding of organics lol Still lots more to read and Iām learning as I goā¦
Yes and no I guess. I mean bone meal, bat shit etcā¦ all has NPK ratios to it so you know what you are adding to your compost. But I agree, exact ppmās and all that stuff, is very intuitive in organics. Soil is also very forgiving compared to hydro. imo
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vernal
1m
Organics is also a VERY wide range of applications. Some guys have promix with a handful of various meals of this and that, some guys do only recycled no-till with fermented plant extracts. I donāt quite understand but it seems to work for them. Some guys are water only super soil, some guys do native soil with bio-char, and everything in between. Beds, pots, companion plants, cover crops between cycles, KNF, clover to add nitrogen, itās all greek to me. Certain things are fast release, some slow, some very slow. Organic chelation, bacterial and fungal activity, etc. A lot of moving parts and variables to account for.
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I know. Aināt it great? Much more fun than a ph pen! 
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And plants are in charge of who needs what, when, and where, my philosophy is put a diversity of stuff in and the plant will use it if it needs it .
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