This is my fall arrest rig for hanging off of formwork.
Here’s my tool bags on vest.
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I have a similar scaled down rig I keep in my apartment for a quick if necessary fire escape.
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you work any bigger camp job here in Canada they will almost always give you a deal they will pick up half the cost and take the rest off a few pays if you will get one. have two the first one i got came with 2 yoyo’s fastened to the D ring you could not remove them it hangs on the wall (heavy). the next one i paid attention it is the same as the one in the picture 100% tie off so it came with the yoyo’s just you can take them off.
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Those PFAS systems are nice and safe, but I hate wearing them on my shoulders and would much rather hook into a retractable as needed.
I did take a little fall using PFAS retractables and I only fell like 4 feet. Not even enough of a fall to engage the bungees on the lanyards. It did bust the safety tabs on the harness.
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I love Klein Tools! Top notch!
Someplace above I said I post pics of my Pro Pac. Here are the two pockets open.
Depending on what you put in them, the main pockets will hold multiple tools. For example, you see the large scissors on the right? The nail cutter behind it is in the same pocket. The upper right pocket that the square, next to the poke saw, also holds multiple hacksaw blades as well as a small hacksaw frame.
On the other side of the bag, you can some small pockets below the vice-grips. Because my work sometimes called for small work, I kept small screwdrivers in those pockets, as well as the two stubbies on the right and various punches, etc. Also on the right, above the stubbies, you can see a telescoping magnet and another screwdriver on end in their own pockets for long, slender tools. Just to the left are the three sharp chisels I carry. I keep their original plastic edge sleeves on them. Of course, I also carry a stone The Craftsman in front in the beater that I carry. The small plastic bag next to it has wooden golf tees for Dutchmen. In the other photo, you can see the small pull saw’s case. It’s what I would use to cut the tees off once in place as well as other precise wood cutting jobs.
In this last photo, you can see the snap that’s missing. The only other thing that “went wrong” was, I use to carry my hammer tines up. It eventually wore a small hole in that side’s cover. You can see it where there appear to be some loose threads at that brown spot. The hole didn’t wear through to the outside. You can see that I started to carry my hammer tines down after that. The hard bottom allows that with no damage that I have been able to see.
That bag saw hard use for well over a decade, and for residential maintenance work, which is what I did for most during that period, bags or vests wouldn’t have worked as well. It was, I think, the perfect tool carrier for my work.
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Here’s a neat tool holster made by one of my favorite knife and tool sellers, he also has his own sharpening stone company and some custom cutting tools, this is a really slim way to carry an axe in the woods or around your property if you use one:
They make a couple neat things that are pretty handy and cheap for carrying tools
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That’s some cool stuff.
I hadn’t heard their name.
I had a very short-term axe fixation about 2 years ago, so I’m only so knowledged on the subject.
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@Dope_Heffalump they used to go by Baryonyx Knofe Company but with the house-brand abrasives being named BYXCO I think he simplified it. The guy is prolific, a legend on BladeForums he goes by FortyTwo Nlades
Same name on YouTube, he’s a scythe fanatic, probably the last person in the US specializing in them, and he also does custom knife mods, including inexpensive fine-tuning of the factory edge on any item you buy as an option. I love the store, he only carries a selected assortment of what he thinks are the best traditionally made edged tools.
Other good places to get into the intricacies of axes and knives are
And the best axe book ever written:
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So back to my faucet question. I was contorting myself to have a look behind the pedestal sink. I had to vacuum dust blankets out of there first. I have a replacement faucet and drain assembly. I’ve been thinking I’d get a plumber just because the space is so tight and my back is a mess, not to mention I know how diy stuff can go, especially if things weren’t done to standards or cobbled together. Then I thought about it and decided I could maybe do the actual faucet, and have a plumber do the drain assembly part. Here comes the question…
That grey drain assembly, it doesn’t appear to transition into the abs like it “should”, at least the way I’ve seen in a few videos (like the one I posted in the post I quoted of myself above). There is no threaded nut with some type of gasket that you can loosen and then pull the drain assembly out. I just goes straight down into a piece of abs… that’s what it looks like to me. In fact, the slightly yellowish tint where the grey pipe meets the black abs makes me think that might be glued in!? (abs glue).
What do you think?
If that’s the case, how would you get this crap apart? Would you have to go in and loosen that large metal sink drain fitting at the very top (of the grey drain assembly)? And if so, would that let you pull the basin part of the sink UP off the pedestal? Hmm.
Another thing, I can’t get calipers in the space to measure the drain assembly (grey), or the abs that it goes directly into. But down a few inches, the abs goes into a 90*, the horizontal, then another 90*, and I got the calipers on that and measured something like 50mm or 1.970something inch, so I guess it’s 2 inch abs. The drain assembly that came with the new faucet feels/looks like it might be smaller than the grey one in place now. The new one is 32mm or 1.25".
Lastly, if I replay just the faucet, the stopper “actuator” (the thing you pull up to plug the sink) will have to come out with it, and there’ll be no way to plug the sink until the new drain with pop-up plug is installed - which is ok. However, the actual stopper/plug would still be in the drain hole… can I just rip it up and out with some pliers or something?
Let me know if more pics would help.
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more pics but there should be a sideways S under the pic lower down. that is what is called a union it will undo not easy but it will and you are missing the compression cap were the grey meets the black i would change the grey sink stopper assembly as well when you have it apart that ball valve will leak 5 minutes after you put it back together if there is no sideways S all should be redone under there as you need a gas trap somewhere under that sink or sewer gases are getting in and standard under cupboard stuff is 1.5 inches the tail stock is normally 1.24 to go into the 1.5 with compression cap
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More pictures would be great but I would cut all that stuff out and plumb in new…from the description. Sounds rigged and may hold now but the minute you touch it going to leak. Unless you can get the faucet out without banging on it and you don’t mind the faucet and stopper not matching
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does not need to look exactly like this but you must have these components under the sink P trap for gases the fitting at the tail stock brass peice coming out of the sink and for sink plugs i use the clicker (pop up) style
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Nothing I do in software to rotate these pics 90* to the right is actually saving these changes. Does anyone know how to do that? I’m using “Okular”.
-Nevermind, used “paint” and it worked.
Anyways. There is no p-trap. Just a 90*, a short horizontal section, then another 90* or maybe even 45*, then another 90*, then vertical pipe down into the floor.
I duno what is going on there, there’s no “sewer” gases/smells ever coming in.
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Now that’s what I call a Job Site shitter right there!!!
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i’d tackle it myself because i’m an idiot that way but if i were you i’d hire a plumber. but if you decide to do it yourself, just take it all out, use a saw if necessary, and put it all back the way it is supposed to be. you can cut that black pipe right under the last 90 before it goes straight down and put the new stuff in. yeah, it’s a mess for sure.
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Thanks bud. I might attempt the actual faucet itself later.
Thanks guys.
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If the sink pipe connects to another there may be a p trap further down the line. When I put in our new bathroom and plumbing I connected the sink and shower on one line then added a P trap before it connected to the main sewer from the toilet. Just saves a bit of money doing it like that.
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Ahh, that is possible. Ok, thanks for commenting. We had the ceiling open on the floor below a year or two ago and I think there might have been a p-trap before the this visible abs went to the “stack” or main drain.
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