best of luck.
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Although I don’t have an octopot setup, those things are pretty cool. I also just messed with my first wicking fabric bag. It has been more than capable of keeping up with the Autopots I’m using right next to it.
Also, for a quick connection hack, use rubber Top-Hat’s. They are super quick and I’ve never had one leak as long as I drilled the right size hole. Also, you CAN’T use them on super thin plastic like a milk jug. Amazon.com : HORTIPOTS 1/4 Inch Rubber Grommet Pack of 25 Top Hat, 6 mm ID Small Tophat Grommet for OD 1/4 Inch Vinyl Rubber Tubing in Hydroponic and Irrigation Systems (Pack of 25) : Patio, Lawn & Garden
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I find myself needing to order some net cups.
I was never happy with how the 3" I had fit.
What is the consensus? Were there some that fit the µOcto lid better that others?
BTW, mine is up and running as well.
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Sweet setup!
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Good work @JOHN1234,
One detail I caught, I think your float valve is installed upside down!
It looks like you have the same model I use, here’s a pic of the proper orientation
You should be able to loosen the nut enough to flip it over.
-Grouchy
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Hmmm, maybe I’m missing something here. When my controller water level drops and the float drops, the water from the res is turned on. When the float rises, the res supply is turned off. Same as a toilet valve. If I rotate 180, the opposite is true. I was confused during assembly because I believe you mentioned the elbow being up. Maybe I purchased the wrong type? Is your inlet hole as small as mine?
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I don’t recommend the 3" AC Infinity. The cup does not seat fully and is shorter than the cups supplied with the unit. I purchased those failing to realize cups are supplied.
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Hard to tell from the pics, try blowing through your float valve inlet, then see which way is UP when it closes.
That tiny inlet to the float valve is normal, keeps gunk from clogging the mech.
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The inlet hole, IMO, is sized for pressure. Meaning, if you drill out, like I did on a bucket I had that I filled with RO water from the RO system itself, you will find the hole will allow too much pressure to push against the float and push it open. Once I replaced with a stock float again, everything was fine.
But, if all you are using is gravity pressure, you should be perfectly fine in opening them up if you wanted to. Hopefully that makes sense.
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It definitely works properly as is. Weird that it is designed 180 out. Thanks for looking out for me 
Really appreciate your advice.
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Makes perfect sense. Thanks!
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Keep posting your efforts @JOHN1234, a learning experience for everyone…
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Will do. Thanks again! You’re an inspiration to us all. The seeds have all popped and are in soil under the light so I will continue progress in my diary.
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Too bad I saw this after I had ac infinity cups in flight.
However, I found you can wedge the ac infinity cup on to the bottom of the supplied cup after that one drops through the hole. I expect you could just cut out the bottom of the supplied cup to make an “extended” cup which rests nicely on the bottom of the container. A cup that rests on the bottom seems like it may more closely match the original octopot design with regard to the wick.
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got these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5DGDZ36?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
they work well.
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For the sake of proper documentation - This is the model float I ordered and is working upside down as compared to @GrouchyOldMan float.
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Merry Christmas Grouchy
: )
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Thank you @ifish, Happy Harvests to You! 
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Hello @GrouchyOldMan,
Hope you had a great Christmas! 
I’m about to up pot from solo to 3 Gal fabric bags and transfer to Micro. Did all testing as you said.
Yes it is cool! and surprisingly slow for anyone impatient.
I had to leave the room while waiting for changes.
Do you have a current recommendation on water height in pots for reaching roots? I’m using the net pot provided by the Micro and will be using equal parts of municipal compost, peat and perlite.
I will compress a small puck to place on top of hydroton in net. Puck will be ~ top 20% of net.
@Jetdro said he has good luck with 1/2" from top but you know Micro the best!
Hope all is well with you and yours.
Thanks!
John
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Hi @JOHN1234,
I have great respect for @jetdro and his octo experience, so take that into consideration, but my best results, meaning the quickest time for roots to hit the reservoir have been when I used the turbo-cup method* along with pre-soaking the netcup before transplanting. I then set the reservoir level at its lowest level, barely touching the bottom of the cup.
The idea being to make a damp path straight down from the seedling to the bottom of the res. Your roots will be seeking water and I want them to find it in the bottom, rather than in the soil.
Once I see roots in the reservoir I start edging the water level up to accommodate the growing root mass. As the water level rises, the soil in the pot becomes moist and the upper root system grows out along with it.
My theory, and it’s only that, is that you get one chance to establish the lower reservoir root system. Once the upper soil roots get established, that’s where all the new roots develop. My goal is a balance between the two root systems.
I’m pressed for time right now so if that doesn’t seem clear just ask.
-Grouchy
- TurboCup Method: establishing an empty space in your soil pot before the transplant using a dixie cup or whatever your seedling is growing in. At the time of transplant, you remove the spacer cup and pre-soak the soil at the bottom of the hole so the transplant roots find the path straight down. Done correctly this gets roots to rez pronto, my best was five days from transplant to first roots in the rez.
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