Yeah, I after plugged the numbers into the nute calculator, I was like “definitely got to lower that a bit” lol! I got it down to like 122 ppm now, but would like to lower it to 100.
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Black ash is not completly burned, white ash is completely burned. (Mosture content will have alot to play.)
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You will notice a good change to bud quality on next grow since the n will be lowered for all of flower not just the end : )
Get rid of them extra leafs it has to grow to store that n and it will up the terps and trichs for next grow too : )
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never has for me
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Heavy defoliated at the beginning and 3rd week of flower will def help with yields, not sure about trichs and terps. I did a side by side for my brother with 2 clones same strain, light, feeding schedule. They were treated the exact same except the one we decided to defoliated must have been in a slightly lower light zone because the buds were a little smaller. After defoliating and waiting a week it pulled ahead of the other one and my brother was shocked and we have done it that way ever since.
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What is this calculator you speak of?
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On the site Cannastats, there is a nutrient calculator called angelfire. You can plug in the percentages of the macros, and micros of your nutrient brand, and it will tell you how much elemental ppm is in your mix.
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There is a study that was very comprehensive about flushing…the results showed …it didnt matter. All of the plants came out pretty close to each other from plants that were flushed either from a few weeks before harvest to plants that were not flushed at all before harvest. Blind panel actually picked the no flush bud over the buds that had been flushed. The Thc and so called “residual nutes” were basically the same in all flowers for the most part. As far as ash goes …who knows
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Is there anyway to find out if that study was done with soil grown plants or hydroponics. Also the way they were fed throughout the plant life cycle. One other thing the method and time of drying and curing used as these things would make a difference in the outcome of the study. For example 10 identical cuttings all grown in a very light soil. Fed only plain water till bloom. Once in bloom they are fed a very light flower nutrients regime once a week and plain water the rest of the time and maybe a little topdressing here and there when otherwise required. Towards the last few weeks five of the plants continue to undergo the same feed regime while the other five get nothing but fresh water. once cut and dried over 10-14 days and cured for a futher 14 days something like this I dont think many people at all will know the difference and I doubt in any scientific tests done on the flower there would be much difference either. But repeate the test with flood and drain grown plants that are force fed excessively high fed strengths. With one set being flushed for the last week or two and one set continuing that high strength feed. Cut and dried in 5-7 days there will be a noticeable difference. So really the study/growing flower producing part would have to be done with people who know what their doing and not some scientists or people who think their professional yet they dont have any real experience with this plant and are probably some scientific suit types who probably have only have very little hands on experience with the plant (maybe a few years )and different methods and outcomes that can be had.
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I’m not sure this is true. If you overfeed your plants you’re going to hear about it.
I grow in Promix and when it’s really hot I need to water more often. I have to dial down the nutes to compensate.
I’m on team don’t flush so, .02
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They used a coco based medium.
I stopped flushing my plants back in the '80s. Since then I feed them right up to harvest.
I use ProMix and feed with every watering.
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The thing is its not so much the flushing. If you are providing what the plant needs then its good. If you start going into excess some things get stored in the plant and arnt easily moved. What flushing is based on is then cutting off nutrients to the plant to force it to try and use those excess stores. Also when you cut a plant it dont just die straight away, it goes through a process were it starts to breakdown whats stored inside it which is a similar process to what people try to achive by flushing. You feed a plant properly you dont need to flush.
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I tend to feed at a level where the leaf tips get ever so slightly burnt. This way I know things are optimal. I might dial it back a little but it’s a good benchmark.
Any more feed than that and they would start to really burn. I guess I’m saying that if you’re over feeding your plants you have bigger problems and flushing isn’t going to help you.
It’s an old argument and it depends what side of the fence you’re on.
The plants tend to fade on their own in senescence so there’s no need to cut out food to achieve this.
Go team no flushing!
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One thing about the study and that it adds the fact that flushing a plant during the grow can be beneficial in order to flush out residual nutes and salts but flushing under the belief that it will make a better final product is not exactly true when looked at through a scientific lense. What makes or breaks your final product has more to do with genetics and the dry and cure process
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Just out of interest Foreigner or any of the other guys who use pro-mix, can you guys tell us a little about what feed you use and roughly when you start using it and why…eg for example the plants start to yellow or something as such. Ive never used pro-mix before but its supposed to be a mix of sphagnum peat moss, perelite, I think co-co and some other beneficials. Its supposed to have about 9-11 months of feed in it. So im wondering if you guys get to the burnt tip stage from too much nutrient. Im not sure if it works like soil or not, but in good soil with organic amendments or additives its usually quite hard to get the plant to take up more nutrients than it needs and it usually takes some time before organics are broken down and taken up by the plant. I was just interested in how you guys see the pro-mix works compared to soil. In for example flood and drain its possible to force the plant to take up alot of nutrients and you can see the results almost immediately.
I think you put that perfectly. Thanks
There are different kinds of promix. Mine is HP myco and it has no fertilizer in it. I prefer it this way as I have more control over feed.
My issue with mixes that have fertilizer in them already, whether organic or not, is how am I supposed to know when the initial charge of fertilizer is done without having to constantly look for deficiency?
I start feeding very shortly after sprout. I use Pure Blend Pro. I mostly follow directions on the bottle. On my current run I underfed for the first two weeks and they yellowed out very badly. My fault.
All the best
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I use pro my HP myco like @Foreigner . As far as I know they don’t contain any nutrients. They say in their videos that there is a small starter charge but I have always fed from the first set of leaves at full strength or even higher. There’s also supposed to be lime as a buffer for pH swings. Not sure how well it works.
I use Jacks 321 at around 1.25 strength. (5-12-26 part A + epsom + calcium nitrate) and have had decent results after switching from coco which got impossible to find here for a decent price after everything started closing down. I find pro mix and coco to be similar in the way that you grow with them. I’m doing a drain to waste setup.
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I’m currently using the same Promix as @Foreigner and @neogitus for the first time and just kicked things off. I’m mostly just trying to read the plants and going off the wisdom of others who have used it/are using it. I have a journal if you want to see me attempt to not fuck it up😬
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Thanks guys. I think thats enough of the pro-mix info for me to see how its working. I dont want to be responsible for turning this into a p-mix thread and taking it off topic, so thank you for the information guys. Is there any one who has really noticed a big difference with flushing
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