Very cool!! Love the pictures of the flowering plants and then the naked frames!! Please keep the photos coming:fire:
Today the sky is so beautiful!
A 2-3 hour break outside the grow tent due to the big temperature rise yesterday and today. I have taken advantage of the cloudy day to make a stimulating foliar application with my soluble Bio fertilizers of algae and guanos, both with Efficient Microorganisms (MM, PF, BAL, AL), I keep the plants during those hours with the leaves well soaked to give time to absorption.
In three days I am going to change the schedule from 20/4h to 12/12h., so this foliar application will be the last. I have been making one application a week, testing various mixtures of components throughout the vegetative period. During flowering, I do not make any applications. foliar…
Wow are those Clouds ever Low @defharo
For clarification, you are dropping the Lite schedule by 4 hours… heading into Flower
this your first reduction and/or there will be others?
Good Morning, your Foliar gauntlet sounds spectacular. Nice to have it run from start to Finish (veg)
Sorry, the translation is wrong, I’m talking about going directly from 20/4H to 12/12H.
This method is the one that works best for me to achieve a rapid preflora and thus also stop the vertical stretching. I already tried 14/10h cycles and also using 375nm light (far red) and yes, I managed to flower, but it took twice as long for the preflora to begin. This season I am going to rehearse the following. As soon as the pre-flora begins at 12/12h, I will increase the time to 13/11h in a few days.
More time + more intense light = more photosynthesis = more plump flowers 
Understood !
I like the impact of your Switch!
And that xtra bit of rope when actual change happens… Thanks for sharing that cycle info @defharo
Figures you would have at least one comment pointing towards “ + More Intense Light ”; I’m seeing a pattern here lol
About the lights: I maintain the current configuration until the stretching stops, then I change 3 blue lamps (450nm) for five lamps for flowering with a lot of red.
Spectrum + intensity = hard buds
With this morning’s foliar application, all plants have their buds singing praises to the sky.! 
Thats IT!!
I’m making a simple Foliar batch for this afts visit. ie: Transport / Fulvic acid at this end.
Thanks for that @defharo
Fulvic acids are especially well absorbed by the leaves. In this last application, fulvic acids are found in Bio Guanos EM. In previous foliar applications I use Leonardite Humate which contains fulvic and humic acids in combination with various amino acid formulas for energy. In another previous application I mixed Humate with natural Hormones (cytokinins, auxins and gibberellins).
Did you get the Humalita?
Not yet, the shipping #’s, ie: $ are stupid.
But I can justify a get-away next week to go pick them up myself. Check a couple waterfalls… I’m in @defharo
They got it
20% rice hulls still looks sparse
That substrate looks very good. You can add the same volume of husk that you used to add perlite, there is no problem with excess, it is to the consumer’s taste. 
Well I add vermiculite and zeolite, which also help with aeration, and river sand 
AERATION OF OLD-SCHOOL POT
I started growing marijuana indoors with old-school square pots, then I learned about textile pots and air-pots, each with its advantages and disadvantages. At first, when I tried textile and air-pot pots, I liked them because of the root development they showed. the plants, due to the great aeration of both models and the greater mobility of water, reflected in consumption, unlike the old-school pots, which are more closed pots, with less water consumption, but more comfortable than the previous ones. to transport and move them, as well as to make better use of the growing tent area, at that time I had many old schools of various sizes at home that I did not want to give up.
The key was to add aeration to the sides of the pot, similar to air-pots or textiles.
I made a pattern to guide me and with a drill, at medium speed, I made the holes. The speed of the drill is important, so that a small plastic tube remains inside around the hole and that water does not escape during irrigation. through said holes. I made the first pots by cutting this “tube” and the water drained away easily.
Well, for me the concept of substrate aeration is very important, because a well-aerated substrate facilitates the propagation of aerobic microorganisms that will help me throughout the crop. In fact, when I finish a crop I see large concentrations of microbiology around each hole, due to the greater presence of oxygen. Finally, these pots behave much better than before with water consumption and root formation.
Nice idea!
I started off with Smart Pots and they worked but I found the water usage was high and I wasn’t getting the root development (near the sidewalls) I was hoping. I used 4 different brands with similar results. The best I found was the Grassroots lined. The waterproof liner extends down to within a couple inches of the bottom giving better water consumption and root development.
Lately I’ve been using cheap nursery pots with predictable results. I think I’ll do an A vs B comparison (with the holes) next run.
Nice hand drill BTW. 
That tilting handle feature is somewhat rare…
Cheers
G
Hello, the drill belonged to my father.
I’m glad that the holes in the pots inspire you, I’ve been using them for 3 years and I have no complaints. You can make the holes a little bigger than mine.
Sometimes I have inserted a stick deep into the holes to release moisture and allow oxygen to enter. Those were times when I still watered excessively.
When I use fabric pots, I put stones in the saucer to aerate the base of the pot and at the same time encourage the appearance of roots at the base.
Interesting points, what diameter drill bit do you recommend? 4mm?
I like your approach with the stones in the saucer, I was having issues in the early days with overwatering and that would certainly have helped.
I watched an interesting vid last year where they built a rock/gravel base in a large smart pot (500~1000 L). As you said, for drainage but also to give the roots a more natural environment.
That got me thinking about the potential effects that might be of various types of rocks…
Nice work
Cheers
G
Hello. I am now using an 8mm drill bit.
The stones at the bottom allow air circulation. I use stones and river gravel, they are very washed stones that will not give up any minerals, the idea is that the air flows between the stones and the pot.
I think that with the runoff and the nutrients it brings, it is enough for the roots that protrude from the base to also take food.
What I want to avoid above all in textile pots is “drowning” those roots at the base, I think that because that part of the substrate is constantly humid it can lose oxygen almost permanently and cause problems. At first I noticed that the base of the fabric pot, without stones at the bottom, ended up with a slimy texture and the roots did not show out.