Thanks @OGSince03 and @corey ,
Can you point me to literature on these “beneficials” please?
Winter time here so temps are usually low. I have managed to keep the Nutes temp around 68-72, with heater if it drops below 68. I have been able to regulate the reservoir temp by removing the lid on warm days. I can see where I will need a chiller to do this in the summer.
I pretty much lost VPD control during week 2 as I had to go out of town and direct my wife on tweaks remotely. VPD stayed around 1.2 to 1.4 that week. Root cause was a rise in ambient temp, which in turn made the LEDs radiate more heat. Adjusted LED height from ~12" to 18".
Week 3 I kept the VPD around 0.85 and week 4 I let it bump up to a VPD of 0.95
I have struggled with humidity both high and low depending on ambient dewpoint. Needed larger (de)humidification than I thought I was going to need. Not sure I can pull this off in summer months. unless I add AC…Probably wont go to the expense, will just try outdoors during the regular growing season.
Another thing I have struggled with is Nute ppms. So much conflicting info. I went by the Dyna-Gro instructions for recirculating systems. I am convinced that I have the nutes too high. I lowed them a couple days ago to around 800ppm, down from 1100ppm. It would seem that a manufacturese recommendations would be pretty close, but I read everywhere that less is more, just not sure “how much less”…
Also read conflicting info on what ph the nutes should be, specifically for hydro. I was initially keeping my ph around 5.8-6., but then I read somewhere here that hydro has a different range, and that you want ~5.20. So lowered my ph to 5.4. Plants seem happier between the lower ppm and ph.
A lot of the original fan leaves stared getting brown spots and yellowing going late into week 4. Not sure if normal or not. Also not sure about whether to trim them or not. I read conflicting stuff on that.
I did “pinch” off yellowing leaves.figuring they couldnt be contributing much anymore.