Funkyfunk grows stickystincky

[Fuel]

You both almost make me dance from good vibes lmao

I will just comment serrations because it’s vicious trait. You’re both right ^^

Consider the serration of leaves just like the hairiness of mammals, it’s the integrated AC of this plant. But powered with a “kompressor” (mercedes) :

• when the “kompressor” is at max pressure : phototropism at ~30° angle in direction of the sky and you can imagine the “sap/evap/stomates” work like a kind of diffuser outputting by each single serration of the plant.

It’s a very high flow part and the only one part that manage photosynthesis + sap pressure regulation at a time. As fast/dense that the arterial system (main veins, in center). It’s partly why it’s the first sector that burn when the sap is too charged in minerals (yes, with “organic” too it’s possible). The pressure at these spots make the higher concentration in the plant, just by the flow. It’s a bit like a sink half blocked.

• when the “kompressor” is at lowest workable pressure : phototropism at ~30% in direction of the ground, the sap become “stagnant”. And it’s where is the trap of understanding. It’s not a rational expression just because a plant can’t move like a mammal : no lung to oxygenate the sap, no heart to make the sap move, no legs to move from the swamp. So it directly show the consequence and not the defense/reaction.

It’s not an excuse to be a maniac of the phototropism, this phenomenom slower when the flowers take the lead and most of the time become negative a long time at the start of the senescence (that can last months for some sativas or more generally seeded females).

It’s also one of the most sensible trait with epigenetics with the number of blades. Let’s share a bit of “strain science” : i selected in my round the NL5H female maintaining the most the 9 blades leaves shape, because it’s the sign that the DNA is used full throttle. Specially since June lol, RH here is swinging from 40% (i love) to 70%+ (i hate) within the day, sometimes for one week straight.

So you’re both right on serrations ^^

If you need more than my explanation for farmer/stoner, there is a paper that is very nice and enter more in details with a crazy experiment in bonus.

Tips : mastering dry cycles (and never call it “crop steering” or i whip you with a trunk of jack herer, dipped in Canna PK ^^), learn you everything you need to know in this plant about :

• sap pressure
• how to flower packed as fuck under 75% RH without any worry (but gnats raids ^^)
• leafs functions : serrations, phototropism, “pressure shape” (like funky in the lower leaves) and even nutes resilience.
• understanding why cannabis isn’t a water lily, and why it’s the first exportation product of Maroc from its arid valleys and also why it was the best plant tested at Tchernobyl (hemp + canna) to depollute soil and even why a farmer that make rotations with hemp have always a superior product (higher prices) with the regular crop (tomatoes, wheat …).

Simple how-to : Never fall in the measurement of the watering, it’s a trap that will make you dumb. Learn to “see” and learn to “feel” this tempo as first priority.

Dry your experimental plants (in veg, early = more genetic resilience) until you see the phototropism falling by this unique leverage.

The optimal window can be short and the weight of the medium frightening. Be strong, after twos or three failed watering in synchro … it enter in your farmer’s hands for lifetime. Not joking. It will make you sensible to the global shapes by an angle you don’t guessed. It’s sharpening you on epigenetics expressions too.

It’s why i trust only the weight of the whole (plant + medium) and nothing else for the water content, RH for me is just a setting of the ecosystem. So like say Charles, i adapt.

You’re both enough used now to understand that it’s absolutely not a trick to don’t over-water the plants, but to learn the sweet spot of canna. You can even use this concept to optimize a DWC, in regulating the level of the water in the container in function of the ambient RH. We’re talking about more that 25% gain in yield and it can be automated now ^^

[AppalachianBiscuits]

@Fuel

You can even use this concept to optimize a DWC, in regulating the level of the water in the container in function of the ambient RH

Taking notes.

[funkyfunk]

@Fuel

RH here is swinging from 40% (i love) to 70%+ (i hate) within the day, sometimes for one week straight.

Same here. Really does not help to get back that farmer feeling.

Your how-to on dry cycles is how I do it. I log every watering and their timing as well as the consequences. I try to push the dryness but I have the same swinging than you, really does not help to get back that farmer hand weighting pots feeling, every parameter is constantly changing.

Coupled with the fact I did not grow plants in such big pots since years, let alone indoor, and that I can only see the plants once every 12 hours. I’m constantly watching the RH swings and the forecasting.

When I started, I even weighted the pots with a scale and logged that too That was very educational.

Thanks for the paper, I’ll have a good reading while chilling this week end now.

[Fuel]

The scale is a far better technic to get started that volume, you was a good horse since the start then ^^

The thing i’m talking about indirectly here still learned by my padawan … since 2016 i took him in charge. This year he put in application on a BOG LS repro, it’s a fully epigenetic approach with partial feeding (on NPK balances) that rely entirely on what i just shared. It’s hiding a lot more that it look at first glance ^^

Not saying it’s a golden road but in term of medium i’ve build a kind of protocol :

• 250-350 ml (~1cup) : seedlings or clones (forced or not)
• 2 liters : the universal volume, most of my breeding is made under this constraint
• 3.5 liters : to get the extra i can’t see with 2 liters (when i’ve to “push” with boosters in mid-flo)
• 10 liters : motherplants, rarely flowered plants.

The 5 liters and all intermediate formats are pointless with canna. Not joking. In case of any hesitation, trust the root mass of roses. Completely different plants, but same needs in root mass.

These volumes permit to handle anything enough fast to be very responsive with the weather, at an half day accuracy.

[santero]

people always laughed at me for growing happily in only one gal pots, haha … i let them laugh

[funkyfunk]

I can definitely see how playing on the edge of the pot size can be useful. Makes sense as you describe it, both the agility it provides in feeding to test genetics as well as remaining on the canna dryness sweet spot you mentioned earlier.

I’ve put the two plants in bigger pots cause they had some veg.

As I have to rebuild the pot collection, I’m actually thinking about their size (you mind reader!) and progression. I’m trying to take into consideration every parameter: number of plant possible, that I’ll probably do 12/12 from seeds from now on, watering once a day at most, and dry nutes.

3.5L was my choice, still hesitating with 5 for more comfort. The new seedlings will go in 3.5L to test that.

@santero that’s interesting cause IIRC you’re growing with amended soil only, and no additional nutes? So small pots is not really an issue with that kind of growing.

[santero]

yeah i add some nutes in form of neemcake, alfalfa, kelp, guano ect.
every few runs only, tho … otherwise the soil gets too hot too fast

[funkyfunk]

Seen that in your previous trufflez run

[Fuel]

I still wait with zero patience the exhaustive smoke report of these Trufflez ^^ Polemic or not, they represent a “stamped by cups” high tier. Even if most of them are hash prizes.

@santero

people always laughed at me for growing happily in only one gal pots, haha … i let them laugh

I found a psychological martingale when it’s not worth to explain anything: i send doubting folks to the OG solo cup competitions

@funkyfunk

I can definitely see how playing on the edge of the pot size can be useful

Let make you crazy a bit more, the form factor of the pots are also playing a lot for the same volume.

I grow only in CEP pots, a pain to find and these morons play the “Frenchy card” with too much zeal : i tried many times to be a branded distributor. They drive the company just like they wanted to kill it, in complaining of course. Their pots are just perfect for canna in all their formats (not the decorative ones). Pussies with fabulous products, so frenchy ^^

[funkyfunk]

With all the beans that took a trip recently, reports should pop up at some point. For now we have pictures. I’m curious too!

@Fuel

I found a psychological martingale when it’s not worth to explain anything: i send doubting folks to the OG solo cup competitions

ahah that’s a great answer

@Fuel

Let make you crazy a bit more, the form factor of the pots are also playing a lot for the same volume.

Yeah I noticed that with all the repurposing I’ve done to find containers

I noticed too your pots were a bit different than the usual growshop one. Well most of them, my growshop sells the CEP from time to time. A little thinner and deeper. I’ve seen someone here using even crazier deep pots to fill their space.

Don’t start me on the french business way

[Fuel]

Crank up the lab, a SD vs Jahmnesia blunt’s summit is required ^^

[santero]

@funkyfunk

Seen that in your previous trufflez run

yes, sir !
some burn more than others as the requirements vary, haha.

i’m a “fuck it”-kinda grower and just try to nail them well enough …
because me being happy in the end is the most important thing

[funkyfunk]

@santero

i’m a “fuck it”-kinda grower and just try to nail them well enough …
because me being happy in the end is the most important thing

Happy and lazy, that’s my take too, more so after I smoke them

@Fuel

Crank up the lab, a SD vs Jahmnesia blunt’s summit is required ^^

That’s a great idea, the smokers around me don’t give a shit about the high, it’s difficult to have feedbacks. That’s the downside of having so much hashish around.

[funkyfunk]

Time for a little update.

I’ve been cranking the light steadily to around 200W, they seem to love it. Will have to get used to the red petioles it seems to trigger though.

Still fighting with the weather and watering, but it’s getting a bit better. Still the same cycle: shitty weather, then it gets better until a storm quickly unfold and it goes back to shitty weather. In this cases, sometimes August is fine and September is really good, sometimes even October, we’ll see.
The lowers are still suffering, probably a combo of the consequences of overwatering and being a bit hungy. The jamnesia is still finicky, the other one is in the frosting up stage. They’re still going on.

The little ones are greening up and growing. They had a bit of misaventures (one bad ph watering and too close to the light) but are fine. Been mixing more soil and washing containers I’ve got back from remote storage. Gonna repot that tonight I think. I have only 9 pots, so I’ll dump 4 plants. More or less already know who’s not gonna make it.

Here’s a few pics from the last days:

Have a good day!

[funkyfunk]

I realize I did not introduce the other plant.

She is an afghanhammer from tiki seedbank. It was a seedbank run by kerala in Switzerland (also a member of OGv1 and a few other forums). He had some traction with some of his releases, but ended up being busted when Switzerland switched their policy. That’s the last strain he released so there’s not much infos about it. This one is from F2s made by rivalpo from cannabisonline.

Afghanhammer is Mazar x Afghani. I assume DP x sensi. This one is leaning toward the mazar I think. A bit bigger and more vigor than her sisters.

I’m using afghanis mostly for sleep disorders and pain. It’s not the strongest I’ve smoked, but it works pretty well for that still. Nothing particular really about it. While flowering she smells very sugary, but it disappears to leave room for a classic floral/perfumey scent and smoke at harvest. I kept it that long more as a plant to fool with, it ain’t really exceptional. Not such a heavy yielder but not so bad, decently frosted though, and a nice sturdy plant.

I don’t have much picture of its OD run, she was behind the jamnesia and got quickly hidden by her. I had to crawl under the jamnesia to access her spot at the end. I broke her main top while bending it, but she couldn’t care less and the laterals took over in a few days after adding a bit if tape. I couldn’t take care of her as much as I would have liked. Here’s a few OD pics:

That’s all for now OG!

[CalleMinogue]

Hey Bro,

Looking good but sorry to say maybe a bit over watered ? How is the cycle ?

I like the set up - you need more greens

[funkyfunk]

Yeah indeed, still fighting on the watering Always been my curse. There’s no real cycle as the weather is constantly changing. I water when the pot is really light, but it’s not there yet. Gonna LIFTA a bit more

[CalleMinogue]

How frequently and how much you give them when watering ?

Was out for Dinner with the Fam

[funkyfunk]

Was repoting and then went to sleep

There’s not been a real cycle per se given I’m trying to find the right one., and with the changing weather sometimes the medium dry fast, sometimes it takes longer.

Right now, I’m watering between 150 and 200ml each time, every 3 to 5 days, when the pot is very light.

I’m starting to think the soil mix is too heavy or retaining too much moisture. I’m thinking the coco I’m using is to bad quality too (Ugro bricks). Possibly I’m also starting to have root rot and/or nutrient lock out because of the bad watering. Maybe I should have gone the easiest pro-mix way at first…

Always remind me how much I hate the prohibition when I hit troubles indoor. Would be so much easier and cheaper to grow outdoor.

[blackcarp]

same haha, very much the same…

it feels like starting in large pots leads to too much water retention until plants are large and can use it, yet you need to moisten the soil so roots even go there. seems tricky to just water the right parts and slowly extend the radius that gets wet as the roots extend.

In flower it gets easier, i just chuck a good liter on 10l pots each day.

But guess i will use repotting from now on, seems much more reliable with my watering skills lol. Id also assume airpots and textile pots do help to get rid of excess water better if one doesnt mind watering more often.

one thing i noticed, do NOT water from bottom and top at the same time, in plastic pots… it traps the air in between and all kinds of bs starts to happen, mechanical soil movements for example, like fracking.

as for soil:

am using mostly hardware store soil from Obi, and its such rip off shop lol, but you can find decent stuff there.

dont get the “mediterranean soil”, its landfill waste or so, go to your local landfill and get humus much cheaper.

normal “blumenerde” gets much too dense in large pots, 1gal/4l max imo. needs additional fluff.

seedling and herbal soil is great, its worm castings, mycos and all that, gets dense thou at larger volumes and is a bit more pricy in small packages.

coco seems great to fluff up the soil, but i just got a massive fungus gnat invasion due to it. Should have covered it with bird sand from the drug store too.

discovered that CompoSana has a “50% leichter” mix, 40l ~10er at Obi. Seems to be similiar to the usual grow mixes, biobizz and plagron.

am gonna test the light soil now, and wanna check out how pure perlite/seramis/bläton etc works out, seen some good stuff here on OG without any soil, but might have to check PH and bla then.

some nice stuff in your diary btw, love the strain descriptions