How to make CBD/THC vape pen refills?

Maybe Someone should PIN this thread for further questions and tweaking I Will try in the near future

I dont know how to do it… maybe some @moderators can judge the necessity of do that and do if its convenient.

i will try this week too… just waiting the PG and VG arrive… i will try with 2 empty atomizators what its done to test but already bought about 30 unitys o this one for the future:

and some terpenes to get some fun with the flavors:

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I’ll keep an eye on this thread see what your up to,where you get the vg and pg from

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I am experimenting on my next batch with trying to extract more terpenes through a different process involving different temperatures and stages.So I Will post here in a week or two,considering my last girl Is going to be chopped in 15 days or so

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I did bought in a website called mercadolivre, in the “Supermarket” session.

Maybe on that walmart like you will found it… i found the PG on chemistry specialized website too but i bought by supermarket one kit with the both.

edit ------------------

I found it on amazon on your country:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=propylene+glycol&sprefix=propyle%2Caps%2C216&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_7

and the kit like i bought:

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Those cartos look like the ones I use for D8, I have 50 of them. They have the larger juice holes. They worked decent for the really super thick D8. Have never tried them with regular viscosity juice. Have you tried them yet.

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not yet my friend…

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I get mine here: Essential Depot

They periodically will put it on sale for $25 a gallon delivered, USA only though.

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I want to be able to vape THC juice on this:
Fused Clapton, dual 26g TI, wrapped in SS316 40g, working great in TC, in a Merlin atty.

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Yes It Is possibile

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You made me a happy man.

Now please tell me.about this alternate method, I dont have an Insta-pot.

It “sounds” like you just steep the trim in pg under heat and then strain it. Temp? How long?

Can I just put roughly shredded material in an accurately temp controlled vessel? I.e. 100g of plant to 100ml pg and steep at 200f for an hour.

Is the purpose of the heat to extract, or to decarb? If I understand correctly, decarbing isnt necessary if we vape it at over 200F. It might be necessary for a good extraction though.

BTW, I did studies on PG and VG degradation into carcinogens by temp. You dont start getting the bad carcinogens until you get above 420F

image

I had discovered some new research by Wang and Guiss suggesting that carcinogens (like formaldehyde) start getting produced at high temperatures, temperatures that were within the normal range of vaping, ie before encountering a dry hit.

So I posted the research. I fully expected numbers from a real modern day atty would be lower than Wang’s, as 100% of the juice in Wangs study was exposed to the specified temperature. Whereas in a real atty a significant portion of the juice does not contact the coil, but vaporizes at a lower temp directly off the wick. My gut told me the thermal degradation phenomena is genuine, but I had no clue what magnitude we would see in a real atty under real-life vaping.

I got flamed to hell and back for posting that research. A lot half baked malarkey, with little to no base in fact, got thrown at me in opposition. Also, since thermal degradation is triggered by temp, many of the VW mod users had legitimate concerns about what temps they might be vaping at. So I started doing professional temperature testing on real attys and posting the results in my blog. That led to “why not test for formaldehyde too”. One of the members shared a video showing a relatively inexpensive formaldehyde meter and suggested we get one. Several of the members then generously contributed towards buying one of these meters.

What resulted is the first publicly posted (to my knowledge) results of thermal degradation formaldehyde testing on a real atty, and under real vaping conditions. I.e. how much formaldehyde is generated at what temperature.

Test Gear Utilized:

  • DNA 200, calibrated, and validated, to be +/- 10 degrees in accuracy
    
  • Merlin RTA with a 0.51ohm, 5/6 wrap, 28g TI coil, and a rayon wick.
    
  • Mettler Toledo PB303, freshly calibrated.
    
  • Extech FM200 Formaldehyde Meter with a fresh factory calibration
    
  • The testing was performed under actual vaping conditions.
    
  • Juices were 36mg (its what I vape) and were unflavored as I didnt want flavorings to skew the results. 
    

Flavorings (and Terps I would imagine) are a whole different can of worms and really need to be tested in and of themselves.

VG and PG were from Essential Depot, nic was from E-Liq.com

So, here are my bottom line results, they were not nearly as severe as some of the unrealistic studies floating around.

Below 440f vaping is relatively formaldehyde free (flavorings not included)
Above 480f is appears that the 90\10 VG\DW was the safest, which makes perfect sense if you look at the boiling point which is 281f. Even 5% DW would lower the boiling point to 332f and be way below the danger zone.

Test Considerations:

Tests were performed on accurate TC gear, these results wont directly apply to VV or VW gear because these tests were all "temperature based". It all still comes down to temperature. The amount of formaldehyde generated is a direct result of thermal degradation, the hotter you cook your juice the more formaldehyde you will get. However, the hottest of these tests were done at 500f, if you get much hotter than that you will start to taste "burnt" even if not yet in a dry hit situation. IMHO, if you arent tasting "burnt" (unless strong flavorings cover it up) then you are likely not exceeding the level of a cigarette.

These test were done on modern gear. Older VV/VW gear (and the type most often sold for vaping weed) might have more severe results due to juice flow inadequacies, and other unfavorable variables etc. Still, IMHO, if you arent tasting "burnt" then you are likely not exceeding the level of a cigarette.

Formaldehyde was the only nasty tested here. Ecigs can have a few different nasties, but not nearly as many as the hundreds of nasties found in burnt tobacco that arent in vape.

These tests were done using MTL conditions. I have no clue how they would correlate to DL hits. My gut tells me DL would be higher levels, especially if cloud chasing, simply because you are inhaling higher volumes (more mg) of juice per hit, so if nasties are present at a given temp you will get more of them.

I think that the Wang study was onto something. They documented the thermal degradation phenomena, and the temps that it occurs at. However their quantities were skewed vs vaping by not using real vape gear in real conditions. There are physics going on inside an atty that can only be reproduced in an actual atty.

The bottom line is if you are concerned about carcinogens from PG and VG then you want to keep your coil temperature below 420F. The best way to do that is with a Temperature controlled mod (like a DNA) but you have to use a compatible TC wire for the coil in order for it to work. All are readily available in the ecig market. Most of the “batteries” I see marketed for weed vapes are just simple VV (variable voltage) devices that will not tell you what temp the coil is.

I am not aware of any thermal degradation study’s done on weed extracts. I dont know what they degrade into under heat. Please share if you know of any studies that show this.

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Very nice friend,We should PIN those Infos,as someone like us will find them interesting.
Also,yes,I doubt my 35 watt vaping mesh coil reach those temperatures in half a second of vaping,but surely,It Is Better to go with a DNA temperature controller vaping experience.
The process to avoid Instant pot Is on this link,There Is a long term extraction,the fast One (ours) and the THC rosin route:

Let me know if you have questions,but I am no master at all,we are experimenting,let me know if you manage to do your own.The next batch I Will document my steps here.

About THC juice and formaldeyde molecules,we have to search for a study,Maybe there Is none yet

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So can I use QWISO oil and flavorings rather than bud and weed flavor?

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Sure friend
@Grease_Monkey

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Interesting! Add some nicotine juice in the mix and its time to party lol

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Let’s go friend!!

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Yes, though if there’s still some of the alcohol in it it will spit and pop more

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OK, so heer is the quick extract method mentioned:

  • To get started, grind and decarboxylate your buds, just like you would in the first step. Prepare your PG/VG solution, including any masking flavors.
  • Then let the buds cool down, and pour in your solution in the jar until all the buds are fully submerged.
  • Add water to the bigger reservoir of your double boiler, around half an inch deep. Then add water to the smaller container of the double boiler.
  • Put your double boiler on the stove and heat it until you get a temperature of 220 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Add the jar with your buds mixture into the double boiler and let it hear up to 180 degrees Fahrenheit. You need to keep this temperature constant and not let it go over, as this infuses the THC into the PG/VG solution.
  • Once you reach the temperature at a steady level, keep it heating at that level for at least an hour. You can add more time if you want a more potent hit.
  • You will need to mix in more PG/VG solutions during this phase, but don’t overdo it to prevent potency loss.
  • If you think the mixture is already good enough for you, you can take it out of the double boiler and let * Once the mixture is warm, take your rice press and cheesecloth and set it up as described in the long-term technique. Pour in your mixture with the cheesecloth acting as a strainer.
  • You can also layer another cheesecloth to help you push out the solution.
  • The filtered mixture is now your THC vape juice.

A couple of thoughts here.
The premise is that you are making a THC infused weed flavoring in a PG base, you can then add VG, Nic, flavorings, etc…
What is unknown is the strength of this concoction.

  • First, I am not sure you need to decarb the pot first. My understanding is that decarb at 220F for an hour converts THCA into THC making it available. However, if you smoke or vape above 220F then decarb happens anyway. This appears to be an extra step unless I am missing something.
  • According to this dude, he is saying that at 180F the THC gets extracted. Need to vet this somehow.
  • 180F would be easy enough to maintain. Not sure I need a double boiler to do it. I have a hot plate and a PID Temp controller that I think would work quite well. I used the same rig with the atty testing I did, it worked.
  • It appears he dilutes the mixture while steeping. “You will need to mix in more PG/VG solutions during this phase, but don’t overdo it to prevent potency loss.” Need to understand why he does this. I suspect it is just to keep the biomass submerged. Obviously, diluting would reduce potency. Need to understand the balance here.
  • Filtering doesnt seem like it would be too hard, I am sure there are 15 different ways to do it.

The strength of the extraction will obviously be dependent on many variables. The quality of the biomass, the quality of the extraction process, etc. Efficiency would be determined by how much of the cannabinoids get extracted. I dont have a way to measure this myself, so I would love to hear suggestions on how to do this at home. If I cant “measure” the result then I cant gauge the effectiveness of my process.

Now, it would “seem” that higher concentrations of THC in the biomass is probably the #1 factor. If you can get 90% of the THC extracted, is there a ceiling to the percentage? If I started with Dry Sift the biomass would have a magnitudes higher THC content, would I still be able to get a 90% extraction? . That should translate to a much more potent juice? Is there some other limiting factor that would prevent this?

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OK, I know there are a lot of knowledgeable folks here, please provide any input you can.

The article that talked about extraction in PG wanted you to use their overpriced $300 appliance to do the extraction. Beyond timed temp control, I dont see that this machine does anything else. The temp of the infusion cycle on the machine is 176 F. So that is what I am basing my initial cycle time on.

I am skipping the decarb step as unless you are using this infusion in edibles or topicals, the decarb step doesnt add any benefit. Thats because if you smoke or vape the mixture it will decarb when you vape it.

My starting protocol:

  • I will trim semi-dry. I.e. Let the plant dry whole for 3-4 days, then trim it.
  • Trim will then be dried thoroughly, coarsely chopped, then frozen
  • Frozen trim will be tumbled in a 180micron Pollen Tumbler to extract trichomes.
  • Trichomes will be weighed and added to PG at a rate of 1g Kief to 10ml of PG. (Wild ass guess on ratio)
  • Resulting solution will be split in half.
  • 1 half will just be jarred and stuck in cool dark place for a couple months.
  • The other half will be heated to 180 F and allowed to steep for 1 hour.
  • Mixtures will then be strained through a coffee filter. (is there a better way to filter trichome skeletons)

Future experiments:

  • Utilizing dry ice to increase trichome extraction efficiency during dry sift.
  • Soaking the dry sift in ice water to separate trichomes from plant matter (plant floats, trichomes sink) for higher purity.
  • Need to find a way to measure the extraction efficiency.
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I will try make some refills this weekend… I will document my process…

In my case I will use a winterized BHO… It has been already filtered 4x… I will repeat until stop the lipid separation… we’re close… after this, I’ll dry the solution and when dried I will mix it with the propyl and glicerin.

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