No problem! It’s been a game changer for me! Especially switching to the gypsum over calmag… And the ease of use for the results is crazy. No having to worry about what freakin week it is and how many ml’s or scoops of whatever, no. Same thing every time. Adjust strength and PH = profit.
I did have to order my gypsum online too though…
Buildasoil has a 10lb bag of DiamondK solution grade gypsum for like ~$20 shipped. best deal i’ve found and it works great but also takes a bit to mix up and has some particulates left over.
DownToEarth is significantly more expensive, like $15/lb, but it mixes really easily and no other particulate matter that I’ve seen. Really like this stuff but again, super pricy!
And then there’s the food grade powder. I haven’t messed with those yet myself but I do have a bag on @HorseBadorites recommendation. Just trying to finish up the diamondk first.
Thanks for the heads up on the Diamond K, I was just checking it out online. I figured 50 lb for 20 bucks should last me awhile. I don’t want to spend all day trying to get it to dissolve though I usually bubble my nutrient mixes anyway.
Seems like DTE or maybe greenway biotech is the best bet for solubility but like you said super expensive compared to the Diamond K. Guess you can’t run this stuff through drippers by any chance?
Not sure honestly… I’d say with the DiamondK, if it was mixed well and left to settle for a bit before pouring into whatever res the drippers pull from, could likely be fine for at least one full run if not a few. I usually run a small fountain pump in my buckets to mix everything up for me but I also run flood and drain with a pond pump, not drippers.
This is from aspen, she is on ICmag and some other forums too.
Normally I spoon feed it twice to three times a week…
Basically I mix up to around 10 gallons for 15 plants at 300ppm .5 scale and add some good Magnesium bringing it up to maybe 450 ppm .5 scale ph the solution and feed that at lights on then a few hours later I’ll feed the normal base nutrients.
I use Diamond K and when mixing it I’ll take my time and let a small pump run to circulate it at first it will look cloudy after it mixed for about 20 minutes the solution clears up and it’s ready to add the mag you want the solution look clear before adding anything else to it or using it otherwise the coco acts like a filter and traps the gypsum on the surface of the pot…
Also lay into the calcium pretty heavily remember Ca is the first element to fall out of coco and the easiest to wash out with too much runoff but slownickle told me one time that it was the key to quality and weight so I never looked back and quality and weight have never been an issue for me.
You really have to get the CA into the root system and keep it in there all the time…… also this isn’t just for flowering plants I start spoon feeding Ca as soon as rooted plants are potted up also its the best way to condition coco for that I go with diamond k at 450ppm .5 scale and 6.0 ph
That’s interesting Using gypsum water like that will flush the pot by itself. That’s literally how I flush at the very end before chop. Run at least the pots worth of gypsum water through it and it’ll take down the EC in the soil drastically.
If you have problems with your drippers (clogging or otherwise) try Netafim brand. They are worlds above the ones you buy in hardware stores. They don’t clog easily and they actually output what they claim (e.g. .5 gal/hr) even outside the recommended PSI.
Woodpecker models are huge compared to a normal dripper, but they have Woodpecker Jr. which are the smaller size
I think this is done to reset the soil much like you do at the end.
I believe the purpose of this is to eliminate any build up in the coco.
Much like you stated here…
A fresh start every to the EC with every flush so to speak.
The food grade is not totally soluble, I hope I didn’t mislead you. I use it on any rootballs, or clone or seedling roots, and on any veggies or flowers outdoors. I use a soluble Ca if I add any to feeds. I wouldn’t add the food grade to a dripper system.
I am still sticking with canna and It Always gives me some nute issues on Coco coir.
I run dtw in 1gal max pots and Always run into issues during flower/preflower.
I have no clue on where to start or how to match the right elementale ppms with salts (DIY).
I use about 0.5 ml per liter,my starting water Is 70%ro and 30% tap for a base of 0.2Ec +0.2 EC of calmag I add before the nutes.
Total Ec Is 0.7
I grow autos,leds,temps are High like 30-25° Celsius and I keep my vpd in check for stage
I ll elaborate in a Little with lot of details @MumenRyder
Here we go:
My municipal water web site says It has and average of 77mg calcium and 36mg magnesium,
Total hardness of 34° French degree and369mg of carbonates(a lot!)
Ec Is average 0.509,now my cheap TDS says 0.609…
Sodium 22mg/l
What I do Is 15 liters of Ro water and 5 liters of Tap brings me in the 0.200 EC zone,Canna told me to do so,then add theory calmag until 0.400,then I add Coco A+B at ratio of 0.5ml /l
for a Total Ec of 650+adding Nitric acid=tot 0.700 EC and 5,8ph
I check runoff and It Is about 0.500Ec.
My leaves are okeyish,Just the top leaves during preflower or late flowering start to have some problema like being very green,almost Blue,or have some burns.Not tip burns tho.
Also,I’d like to use my tap and not having to buy Ro filters,but I noticed It tends to clog the roots with all the carbonates and have me calcium/magnesium lockouts before.
What to do?
I would like to go salts and do a formulation fornmy water but I think It has too much carbonates.
So personally I see no problems with the plants in the pictures. Even if you have some burnt tips that’s not really a problem unless it progresses and I don’t see any there.
Plants look fine IMO nothing to worry about. Even if they are dark green (hard to tell in a picture) I never worry about that without also seeing burnt tips.
Not only does properly using gypsum result in healthy high brix plants, but those plants will be naturally pest free.
Beyond that Calcium is the trucker for all minerals in a plant, so Gypsum will help with nutrient absorption and transportation.
If used properly and effectively, your plant stem will never be hollow again.
Yes, even those genetically predisposed to hollow stems.
My guess is they are just genetically predisposed to being in need of large amounts of calcium.
This need for large amounts of calcium also means the plant is able to transport all nutrients faster and better than most plants, this mix is like jet fuel for a race car.
I feel this is why folks love to select for hollow stems.
The hollow stem is a sign that the race car is ready to run and the plant is not a ford pinto.
You just have to give it what it needs to maximize its full potential.
I have said it before…
If you have hollow stems your plant is probably not reaching its full potential.
And the super simple fix is Gypsum.
This run Is going Better actually,but I d like to know more on how to use flood table with our nutrients,can you Tell me on private messages so I don’t ruin the thread?
Now I’m wondering if I could do it? 
I’d bet the secrets are worth it 
Using gypsum water like that will flush the pot by itself. That’s literally how I flush at the very end before chop. Run at least the pots worth of gypsum water through it and it’ll take down the EC in the soil drastically.
