The way you’re intending to grow is what I recommend to newbies. It’s what I still use, because I like to keep it simple above all else with as few moving parts or variables as possible.
I recommend DynaGro if you have hard water, Maxi Series if you have softer water. Both are 1-part, but MaxiBloom has 3x the Calcium that DynaGro does. You can get away with just using MaxiBloom, and I certainly have had success, but MaxiGrow will grow larger plants faster from the extra N. The only additive you need is Silica and a rooting hormone. Everything else is extraneous, though I do like Ful-Power and Floralicious Plus (I use a similar product called Jump Start) as foliars. For feeds I try to keep it salts-only. I don’t use any microbial/fungal products.
Hempy buckets are awesome. I still use them. Go bigger than what you think you’ll need. A 5 gallon hempy bucket can yield 1/2lb+ if you’re doing it right. I recommend using a hole 3" from the bottom in larger hempies instead of 2". Put perlite in the bottom 4" and 50/50 coco/perlite on top. That mix is pH stable essentially “out of the bag”. Trust me, I’ve tried EVERYTHING in a hempy. I like rockwool croutons too, but they are pricey.
All that being said, I DO NOT recommend LED. That’ll ruffle some feathers 'round here, but stick to CMH or HPS for flowering. LED is fine for vegetative tent lighting. I have been there, done that with LED and the results were ALWAYS subpar. I bought a top of the line ($1000) LED a few years back and sold it after 1 cycle to a friend for $200 as a veg light, if that tells you anything.
If you have any questions about the KISS method of growing feel free to inbox me. I taught myself to grow from the old KISS threads on icmag and I’d be happy to share any insight I’ve gained over the years. 1 tip I can give you is run your pH closer to 6.2 than 5.8. I shoot for 6.0 and the plants all love it.
I don’t check EC, I just use the pH test drops. All the dudes who use digital pens have a story about how off it was because they didn’t calibrate it. pH drops are slightly less accurate but never need calibration. After a while you only occasionally check pH, you’ll be able to read your plants if the pH gets out of wack. My yearly water supply is pretty stable, some places it changes seasonally so the same inputs generally get the same pH.
One of the problems with new growers is that there’s 1000 ways to skin a cat, everyone thinks their method is the best, and it’s just a general overload of information. I am happy to cut through the nonsense so you can be successful your first time, and even more successful after that.