just some generic $1 ebay ones i have used both of these, the first ones you can cut to size though, but there partially flexible.
Just be aware of how many amps you may be running before buying, you will want the versions that can easily handle your amperage plus some. For us unless were running like 50-100 bulbs worth we wont get anywhere near most of what the small ones are rated .
Day 6 pH drifted again in both the test sample and reservoirs but they were 4-5 points higher. So i did a flush at low pH last night and will be feeding around 5.7-5.8 over the weekend expecting it to drift upwards over it. The plants color is already starting to return though. Oh also bumped up the feed to 500ppm or 1.0 ec, as the bigger plants need it.
Also modified the Case slightly just for easier tray removal and setup as i ran into some issues last night that just caused a mess. A lot better now.
Kinda pissed at such a rough start, but shit happens.
the mini bucket again worse for wear also has next to no space left, so ill be plucking leaves in a week, but its really been hammered due to the pH issue, also replaced the wicks as the old ones were falling apart. But i still need to order in some proper wicking material or find some instead of the cotton fabric.
Hang in there, we are rooting for you! (no pun intended) 
Day 11 the pH creeped high again, but i couldnāt deal with it till last night due to the holidays. So everything got a flushed with low pH feed followed by a watering with a feed at 5.8 adjusted with a different method. I will monitor now that i have some time to see if it holds steady over time.
Plants wise there doing not that bad actually, just pale due to high pH nitrogen cutoff and the odd lockout spotting. Also already at this stage you can start to spot the leaf crinkle mutation that sometimes happens that im doing this seed run to specifically breed out. Back left, and less so 2nd from the right on the back row, the TDxDD in front second from the right also has some mutation going on but i believe is more to do with the rough start and pH issues that actual mutation like the others. The (TDxDD)xCM in the front right i might pluck just to provide more space for new plants shortly.
Saying that iāll start some more seed possibly today, and will probably use the bucket as a hold over till i have picked which DD iāll be reversing. ALso i will get rid of those couple plants in the next couple days.
The watering spouts also were swapped for longer ones last night as well, had to make 3 more but they will work alot better now.
The mini bucket same issue as above to pH so it got the same treatment, also over the holidays it grew tall enough that it stopped the fan, but i had time to trim it over to fix the issue. This plant will from here on out be continuously plucked and cut back to make it fit the space, so its gonna be interesting how this turns out.
Growin and Glowin 
99
Mr S its looking great, and Iām very excited to see the turnout on all of your projects.
I really love seeing gardens progress - thereās just magic 
about it you know?
i agree, seeing the progression and change is what i like about growing. Sayign that i also threw 8 DarkDevil seeds into some water this morning, so they should be planted come monday most likely. But that means i have to get my bucket all squared away, the watering system i might hold off on for now till my parts arrive, but who knows.
Looking great. You can definitely tell the nitrogen is locked out, as they are lime green lol.
Love your progress updates, I still need to get around to installing my blumats. Iām sick with the crud thatās going around though and have zero energy. I was exhausted just re-installing my SolStrip Array in my cab. It wasnāt even hard, iām just that worn down.
Fully with you there well get better anyways, i have the holiday burnout and picked up a throat cold about two days back, still have my energy though, which is needed to keep the lady happy as we will be doing some night skiing/boarding tonight as we canāt go tomorrow and there has been some nice snow in the last bit, also will probably head up sunday and monday. So my plan is rest up saturday and to work on the bucket a bit with starting and finishing the carbon filter, and maybe some basic programing for the new watering system, but we will see.
Rest up my friend.
Skiing sounds amazing, but Iām a clutz by nature. I might do allright boarding though.
How much has your arduino programming evolved over the course of your transition from Case to Bucket?
Iām putting together a space bucket using some of your space saving techniques. Iām getting close so I started a seed yesterday(just one, a freebie ā polar express autoā) which will hopefully get planted in a day or two. Coco coir in a 1 gallon soft pot and trying me some MegaCrop nutes. Iāll post some pics when itās done and I get something growing in it. Itāll be a work in progress for quite a while as I ordered an arduino for experimentation but for the time being, it will be manually watered and the lights will be controlled by a sonoff WiFi switch. I may even set up the feeding with a sonoff for now.
Itās actually gotten simpler, was on version 3.6 with the case before the upgrade which was at around 236 lines of code with spaces, but then slimmed it down for the new version at 213, as i removed a section dedicated to PWM fan control.
The bucket is way more simple just because its only needs to control the lights, verse an lcd, temp and humidity sensor, or button control, its only 36 lines of basic code spaces and all. The coding could be reduced to around 24 as the side lights and lid lights are on different relays when they donāt need too. Only reason they are is the side lights were originally running a different voltage, but now im just gonna use it as is but turn the side lights on 15min before the lid and turn them off 15min after, just as a softer wake up and night time scenario.
The watering will be separate, but even still will be around the same amount of lines. I have a different idea for control this time in that i will utilize just one button for setting the setpoint for when to water based off what the sensor is reading, verse the old method where you could display the reading at any time on the lcd and i would change the setpoint by reuploading the code to the arduino with the adjusted setpoint.
I may also add a double click and hold function or something similar as a manual watering bypass option, or just avoid the arduino all together an have a manual pump switch, but the arduino method is a possible safeguard against accidental button/switch presses.
Oh and 4 of the plants got pulled tonight, the ones with the leaf mutations and the ((TDxDD)xCM) just casue i didnāt really need it as i already have the bigger one thats flowering to test out the cross of.
If you had some far red lighting, this would simulate sun-rise and sun-set.
I need to build a bucket or twoā¦ lol.
yeah i looked into that a bit with it being mentioned by a few growers out there, but that may be something to tinker with on my next build, also it starts pushing me back into the more specialized parts and pieces when my goal as of late is to have everything built from easy to find cheap components, while making things as simple as possible.
Oh for sure. I have a feeling iām going to have a perpetual bucket army next yearā¦ I kind of want to redo my shed next year and start taking clones and growing single colas in buckets. Get it to where I can harvest an ounce every week and start giving meds to my family members in need.
Moms got MS/Fibro,
Wifey has gene mutation/chronic nausea,
I donāt sleep worth a damn and hurt all the time,
and got a friend with Glaucoma,
So iād love to be able to provide free meds for themā¦ Just sucks our state passed medical in 2016 and the state government has done everything in its power to hold up progress, so itās still illegal as fuck for me.
If I wrote the code, it would be in several classes and use thousands of lines of code. Itās a problem I have; I over engineer everything. Part of whatās stopping me from getting into it.
Day 15 pH is still F-ing with me, my only guess is some reservoir bacteria if helping cause the swing to go high, and also that when balancing the pH its swinging high due to possible buffering capacities or its slowly getting neutralized over time.
Pissing me off is what it is, but always something new to learn, so right now i will be feeding un-pH feed water and monitoring its rise and will try and eliminate any reservoir bacteria. If it slows down its swings by starting low ill try to adjust accordingly till things get back to how i was running for quite some time. This ones just stumping me for now.
Also removed those other plants, and have 8 seeds ready to be planted tonight or tomorrow at the latest.
Minibucket had to pluck after this photo, again growing too big for the space, but thats due to the pot size.
Day 17/0
So my assumption on the pH issue with a 60% guess is im growing diatoms or otherwise known as brown algae in my reservoirs which is obvious to me but that causing my pH issues. I have always had a bit of it off and on but that was kept under control with running a dead res, and when i wasnāt on top of the sterilization that when things would tend to go side ways root rot and and green algae on the pots if things were too wet.
For the last while i was foregoing the addition of bleach āa drop or two a literā as i was trying a different more concentrated method of pH control where hydrogen peroxide was present or created with the control method. Well it wasnāt enough to keep my res dead, so because of that things got out of control and started to flourish or that is at least my best guess currently.
So ive switched back to the use of chlorine for my sterilization purposes, except iāll be trying out calcium hypochlorite instead of sodium hypochlorite āstandard bleachā as its better plant wise. Doing a higher ppm shock right now just to attempt to kill things and see if i can rain it back under control, but have to watch the ph range.
Also with that low ph flush i did i crisped up the mini bucket plant so its rough, plucked the leaves and will see what it does, but im ready to toss that thing anyways, but we will see.
Aside from all that, have a bunch more seeds planted most in fabric pots and two in solo style cups, and have the bucket up and running tonight just to have space for all the seedlings, but i still need to do the watering control on the bucket even though everything is plumbed and ready to go and block out a few light leak issues i want to do.
As of last night the pH was remaining stable and the plants were looking healthy. Iām not out of the woods yet, but itās looking positive.
Also its time that i start spraying the three remaining Dark Devils from the first batch with colloidal silver to reverse them.
The process i use to reverse a plant for pollen production.
I use Colloidal Silver to reverse my plants, the process with which it works is silver uptake by the plant through its stromaās suppresses ethylene production in the plant causing female plants to produce pollen which when used on other females will cause all your seeds to be female as well due to chromosome pairing.
In order to reverse a plant i typically spray colloidal silver on the plant to be reversed specifically the future bud sites at least once but usually twice a day through a two to three week span till i start to see the pollen sacs form and have a few of them opening. Your plant has to be old enough to start forming flowers and pollen sacs anyways, but your usually good to start spraying Autos by the second week of growth, and photoperiods a week before flipping to flower.
If you miss a day or two of spraying its fine it will just slow down the rate at which the plant reverses. But if you miss say 4-5+ days in a row the plant will start to revert back to throwing out pistils instead of making pollen sacs so it will take longer for that plant to reverse once you start spraying again.
Making Colloidal Silver is easy and you need next to nothing to do so.
You need three things a DC power source, Pure Silver ā99%ā, and Distilled Water. The process in which we make it is the same as Electroplating, except that we using the solution with which the metal is transported through which in our case is distilled water that has suspended silver cations in it.
So for my setup im using a old modem DC wall transformer that runs at a higher 22v and low amperage of around 200-400mA, but any typical 9-12v wall wart will work. Other āgeneratorsā typically use a current limiting resistor to prevent current run away that happens as the concentration builds up but for our purposes it doesnāt really matter too much so i donāt run one. My transformer i have soldered and crimped on two alligator clips on the positive and negative wires to make it easy to clip onto my silver. The silver i use is a 1oz bar i have cut down the middle in order to make two pieces, and any silver will work so long as its pure silver. Next i have some distilled water, high purity RO water will work as well but this is needed as tap water typically has stuff already suspended or dissolved in it, we need pure water.
In this picture i have really all that is required, some pure silver, distilled water, my dc power source with alligator clips and something to hang those clips from to suspend the silver in the Distilled Water. Also is my spray bottle but glass would be more ideal. The spray bottle cap full of yellow liquid is just left over colloidal silver from my last batch that iām using as a kickstarter per say just to speed up the process of making CS, it is not needed it but it will take a bit longer to get going from straight distilled water.
Next i clip the silver to the clips and suspend this in the distilled water using a couple other glasses to prop up the chopstick i have the wires wrapped around, making sure the two pieces of silver arenāt touching each other and i just plug it in, thats it.
After a little bit with help of some side lighting you will notice silver starting to be transferred from the anode to the cathode side of your circuit with bubbles also forming on your silver, you stop and unplug once you start to see bigger particles start to form and start falling to the bottom of your container, they will also start to change color at this point as the particle size is becoming larger allowing a broader spectrum of light to be transferred back at you.
As example this is when it is run too long, notice the brown/reddish sediment that has formed under the anode side, this is just larger particles of silver.
In this case i just let it settle out overnight which causes the heavier larger silver particles to drop out of suspension, if you held a light to the side of the container this liquid will look cloudy but clear under just normal light like the picture below. I then decant the liquid off to my spray bottle of choice and your good to go.
Now you may still have some larger silver particles in suspension which will drop out over time, which you can either decant off of, or just use as is. But you may notice a silver sheen start to form on the plants you spray it with, a little water will wash it off your plants though.
Light can degrade your solution over time but i only make a small bottle worth when need so i donāt worry about longevity, saying that i have used CS to success that i made 6 months or more before, and donāt be afraid when the color changes to a lemon yellow it will just do that.
After this just clean your silver with some paper towel or cloth as a black deposit will form on in, and put everything away till your next batch. To note my 1 oz Silver bar will definitely last me my lifetime and a few more at my current use.
i baught a couple of bottles of tiserius mist fk that shit is expensive 35 each for enough to spray one plant any more info on spraying autos would be great
