Not this one, though. Right? Haha. Link
A comment on another video mentioned that there’s a hum from their device when not running at rull rpm/power. It reminded me of when people used to use a “fan speed controller” on the older style inline fans to control the speed, and it made them hum. It would ‘pulse’ the power. Not the proper device for it (a fan) really…? I remember someone saying a “variac” was the better choice. This is a long time ago.
(Eg. of using src controller, instead of variac with a table fan: Link)
Maybe not a big deal in the distiller application because it’s not controller a motor or a rotating device(?).
I’d love to be able to make rosin. But it either requires making bubble first, or needing a significanly larger press plate setup to be able to process enough flower to make it worth while…am I wrong?
Also, I’m seeing some of these units on amazon say 750W and some say 1750W. I’m wondering if that’s two different powers, or a typo on one of them.
Most 15amp breakers would trip right around that 1750w , they’re lying also it’s an air cooled condenser where even at 750w of heat it can barely keep up at turning the vapor to liquid no way it could keep up to 1750w of heat, my legit water cooled condensers on my old large setup could only keep up to say 1500w of heat when my cooling water was cold .
And what my SRC looks like, it does hum very slightly, but your clipping voltage so expected.
Yea, and a 15A circuit, after the 80% rule, should only have 1440W max. Quite a few of the listings say 1750W. I’ll have to ask’em just to double check.
Likely they will tell you a fib, cause you know more power = better … Again I don’t see how the condenser would be able to keep up to the vapor load at that wattage, you’d just be blowing steam and alcohol vapor
That one looks better AND it’s a Vevor, so if that is the type you want, I would get it, in fact I would get the $95 one, unless you want a timer. Wasn’t able to do the run this weekend, but will be some time this week (have to) so I will let you know my final %.
Morning ReikoX
Hope you had a wonderful Christmas and all your dreams are coming true,
I have some bad news that you may be aware of already.
With Saddness I wanted to tell you our Good Friend
PSam passed away on Oct 19th, I did not get a chance to post to you until today.
PSam was a pioneer in the edibles industry and ways for the average joe to make them at home, He has left his mark online in forums as well as youtube. If you never saw his Youtube check them out sometime.
Your friend Stiggy
Info in description: “…This is BVV™’s Ultra High Purity Lab Grade 710 Extraction solvent. It contains a blend of 95% Food grade/USP/ACS 200 proof ethanol, corn-based, and denatured with 4.5% high purity N-Heptane. This solvent is standard across the industry and has been formulated to alleviate the cost of the Federal Excise Tax on alcohol while still being viable for the highest quality extractions. …”.
There are msds on the 710 extraction solvent, and the N-heptane, on their pages.
So, back to the solvents question, @Mr.Sparkle maybe you know, is the n-heptane residuals more of a concern than the residuals from whatever would be in isopropyl alcohol or methyl hydrate (from can tire, as you mentioned)?
I’m curious, especially because this “710 extractor” stuff, and probably much worse, is what’s being used to make a lot of the garbage extract (legal or otherwise) in canada.
The heptane shouldn’t be a problem if it is properly purged into an oil. If you are making a tincture, however, then you wouldn’t want to use that product.
So, you’re saying the residual heptane shouldn’t be a problem if the end product is going to be vaporized/inhaled, but could be a problem if the end product will be eaten/ingested?
I’m basically wondering which of the three options is the “best” (least potential harm from unwanted or residual ingredients) for extraction for green dragon type stuff; 99.9% Isopropyl, Methyl Hydrate, or this 710 Extract stuff (95% ethanol with some N-Heptane added)? Again, after a “home quality” “purge” (evaporation with heat). Edit: (I.E.: because everclear type stuff is about $80-100 for 750mL, after shipping).
Assuming you completely purge it, I would lean toward the 710 extract stuff. Then if you want a tincture, add the purged oil to some 80 proof vodka or grain alcohol to make the tincture.
Ok. Thank you for your input, very much appreciated. I also hope some other people might chime in. That 710 extract isn’t too expensive (relatively).
I wonder if one could distill out the N-heptane (with ease. using equipment mentioned in this thread).
Lastly, I just need to identify and select the cheapest method to get to as close to Source Turbo results as I can, for less money. I doubt I’ll find something with the vacuum assist function though. So maybe just a cheap countertop still, with a voltage regulator, as mentioned already. I just can’t be spending high dollar amounts on quality alcohol to let it just evaporate into the air, I’ll absolutely have to have a plan and device to reclaim that pricey alcohol solvent.
Just got home from 5 days of hell at the hospital (back surgery finally(?) ) and what do you know the “Pain Management” Doc fuck up on the Oxy they “demanded” I take at the corporate heath care bankrupt… I mean center, with the prescription and my chosen legal dealer decided not to fill it. Still had some of my tincture I made from some weed I got many moons ago (you know who you are - thanks) and started to use that.
Well you can guess what happened…Less pain with more actual movements and I can quit the “stool softeners” and not deal with the impending blocked up shit hole and just be normal… I Guess?
You know, I might not even call them and they will never know… well until my 4 week followup.
You guys ever hear of this one: https://medxtractor.com/medxtractor-essential-alcohol-based-extractors/
EDIT: I wanted to mention, it looks like the “bottom” of their container the same as the bottom of these “counter top” stills. Check it out in their video, about 6:30 timestamp or later. Looks like a “vevor” type unit base, haha.
I’m handy enough, but the getting my hands on the materials and parts for diy things (and the cost of getting them if available) is the part that almost always makes it…barely worth it, if possible. I’ll check out that thread though. 95%! And at $2.50/L (usd I assume), that’s great.
I’d like to ask questions about your source turbo, if that’s ok?
-How long have you had your source turbo for now?
-And any issues to report yet; failures, warranty, parts replaced?
-Have you taken it apart at all to look at stuff? Just curious. Been looking at diy.
-Does it show any signs of slowing down, breaking down, or performance getting worse?
-What are the biggest drawbacks of the 300mL (I think) container size; I mean, how much oil (in terms that make sense to you) could one produce in a “day”, or how much flower could be processed in a day (One could use a concentrate like bubble hash too I suppose?).
I’m wondering about an average or medium sized medical grow patient use for this product. Processing nearly whole harvest using this method (doesn’t like to smoke/inhale).
I see that container size and speed/time are the biggest limits to how much can be processed. How would one best go about processing, say, 16oz of flower, most efficiently ? (Examples I’m thinking of; would you use the same alcohol to wash multiple oz of flower? Etc.)
