I have the mars hydro FC-E6500 730W dimmable LED (I had it on 25% for seedling and I was doing some research on mars hydro and it said in vegetation you want it at 75%)
I didn’t turn it straight to 75% so it didn’t burn them but right now it’s at 42%
I run ff soil and nutrients, but i typically start with happy frog or 50/50 happy frog strawberry fields with about 15- 20% coarse perlite added. I’ve used ocean forest before but as others indicate its pretty hot for young plants. I typically dont need to feed until around week 3 or so.
Sorry if i missed, but whats your water source? I ask because I have very hard and alkaline water, lots of calcium that has caused issues (at least im convinced) with lockouts. Now I run mine through a hose filter, brings the ppm down a little, used more for chloramine/chlorine, sediments, heavy metals, then add epsom salts regularly. Has helped a lot.
FFOF is usually good for around a month in my experience. After that you need to feed bottled nutrients or top dress dry amendments.
I also use tap water with no problems.
Your plant looks pretty healthy overall, i would just feed straight tap water until you start to see yellowing at the bottom leaves. Then start feeding your trio. Also lower light intensity a little bit. And very slowly raise it. I dont think you need even close to 75% intesity in veg from a 730 watt led.that seems like insane overkill.
I can flower with amazing results at 70% intesity on my 650 watt led.
Ahh yeah that’s a pretty strong light! It’ll serve you well. I wish lights like this had been affordable back when I started my first grow!
I forgot to ask, how far is it from the plants?
I checked the Mars Hydro site for the ppfd map on that light. At 100% strength it goes up to 1500 in the center at 8” away, around 1200+ at 12” away. Even 75% of those values would be a lot higher than I think is needed in veg. Heck, even at 40-50% strength it may be too bright for the plants depending on how close the light is.
I start them in cubes and R/O water @ 5.6 ph then transfer to the next medium once established. Soil I use is a combo of fox farm ocean blend, coco coir, and sunshine mix #4. I add mycorrhizae, epsom salts, and worm castings.
My kahooter growmigo likes to put soil at the bottom and coco in middle and rock wool up top and keeps ph at 5.6 and he is making amazing meds to the plants fullest potential.
I posted this elsewhere but may be helpful for you in future
: )
When the first tiny petal cotyledons fade , time to feed , easy : )
If there is food in medium this will happen later , rather than earlier if no food in medium
The cotyledons are the seeds stored food bank , once it runs out they need feed , a good visual indicator that what in seed and originally in medium is running low , time to start feeding
Maybe slight zinc deficiency from lockout. Too much Ca or Mg can make Zn less available. Since it’s affecting new growth it’s an immobile nutrient deficiency. It happens to me sometimes. In my case I’m pretty sure it’s Ca excess.
Are you giving CalMag too?
It’s actually showing up a little right now on a couple in one pot. I gave it a mixture with basalt and the high Ca content causes issues I’ve figured out.
I add micronutrients with zinc when it happens. Here’s a couple pics of mine that look similar.
Its hard to tell but the soil look pretty dry from the photos, Are they in fabric pots?
I’m thinking a PH swing from the soil becoming hydrophobic from a deeper dryback.
Hi brotha.
That wet soil and that green color means those are your problem IMO. The leaves seem having overwatering symptoms also.
Excess water, light exposure, poor air circulation, and/or humidity causes green algae on top of seedling soil. It’s quite common. Nothing to worry about and it can be solved by gently removing the green part, decreasing the water and/or increasing circulation
Sup bud. Yeah they were all alone for 10 days I had to go out of town and was forced to things I normally wouldn’t. Algae growing and a fan died on one of those days before I returned. =(
I’m not extremely worried however; they are already bouncing back. @Talygrow