thanks that’s good to know, i’ll keep an eye for that. i have been feeding my solo cup plants at the same strength as my flowering plants tho and haven’t seen any burn yet (10g maxi/gallon - probably around 2EC or over)
That is almost a verification trait of Blueberry. I grew DJ’s original BB release in '94, a second generation release I have now, and several BB crosses over the years. Leaf variegation (white splotches) and deformation showed up in all of them. I’d be skeptical of crosses that never showed them. It’s a problem with Blueberry, a sign of inbreeding depression and homozygous genetic profile. Which is probably the reason BB shines more often in crosses than as a pure strain.
-b420
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Sorry may be off topic but @Baudelaire from all the strains i have grown of yours the only difference I noticed so far was in the Janis which I believe has some of the DJ Shorts Blueberry in her Pedigree, All the rest were so uniform they could have been clones 
.
Also please may I ask how do you pronounce her name Janis with a Jay or Janis with a Y as in Yanis (gGreek) or Janis with the Jay UK spelling of a Ladies Name Jannis ? @Baudelaire
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Janis with a hard “J” as in jam. Named after San Francisco’s (and Port Arthur’s) own blues legend Janis Joplin.
You are correct as to the Blueberry in Janis. And it was early, original DJ Short BB, so the traits definitely show up in Janis (Sensi Silver Pearl x (Aloha White Widow x DJ Short BB)). As the BB gets diluted through out-crossing the traits are expressed far less frequently.
-b420
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I am so bad at seedlings 
They pop up happily, grow well for a week, and then just seem to start crawling… Aside from my A13 over the summer, I can usually get them into “big enough to repot” state, but that usually takes several weeks… it’d be nice if I could start plants of healthy and keep them going that way.
Bingo Pajama, day 20:
Not terrible, but that lightening between the veins isn’t healthy. This one hasn’t been fed yet, so maybe it’s time to give it a little something?
C99, day 27:
… this one is doing that trick where the leaves are starting to die back. I did give this one a very mild feeding a week ago, which (maybe coincidentally?) seems to have coincided with the oldest leaves beginning to wither and die.
My seedling mix is Happy Frog + 1/3 perlite, which sounds entirely reasonable – mild soil, and drainage seems great. I’ve been letting the soil surface turn bone dry between waterings, and have a dedicated seedling pot with wet soil to compare the pot weight with the seedlings in an effort to avoid over-watering.
Anyway. Just venting. I guess I have my FDM breeder packs to help me experiment and figure out where I’m going wrong, so maybe it’s time to start a bunch of seeds and science the heck out of them.
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This sounds like a soil issue. The first week the plant will use its cotyledons for food if it can’t take it from the soil and runs out after about a week. How long does it take for the cotyledons to brown and wither? Should last 3-4 weeks anyway.
This plant is at 40 days and mostly finished them off about a week ago. There is still some green left near the stalk.
You got to see what @Uncle_Al has done.
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Well, my summer of seedling horrors thread documents my killing of four Apollo 13 seedlings without being able to figure out what I was doing wrong, but the ChemD x Sunshine Daydream guinea pig used to test my soil survived and is 47 days into flowering. As for my soils, I’ve tried…
- Happy Frog
- Light Warrior
- Coast of Maine Seed Starting Mix
- Espoma Seed Starting Mix
- Coast of Maine “Platinum Blend,” cut with 50% coco
- Homemade seedling mix (1/3 compost, 1/3 coco, 1/3 perlite)
… there may have been others. Happy Frog and Espoma are the two that have given me the best results. Tested pH on most of the above and nothing was too out-of-whack (6.5 to 7.0). Also the 
part is that I use the same soil (mainly Happy Frog) for clones without issue… so if soil pH or nutrients were the cause, I’d assume my clones would be in the same situation.
Specific to the cotyledons, the Bingo Pajama has hints of yellow, the C99’s are completely crisp. Ugh. Guess I’ll feed them… I don’t have an immediate need for these plants, so if that’s not the answer and they get worse, so be it.
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Do you amend your store bought soil? That some plants have the issue and others don’t, makes me think its an issue of inches and not miles. 
I’m beginning to think it is a problem with root formation. See Uncle Al’s test for phosphorous. Do you use tap water? If you are comfortable with Espoma products ( I love them) try amending your soil with Plant Tone and be sure the pH stays close to what you have now.
I am finding that by top dressing my store bought soil (Roots 707) with very small amounts of my own compost from my worm bin, my only issue is the plants are getting root bound more quickly than I am used to.
Thanks @lotus710!
99%
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Not for seedlings (aside from extra perlite), and rarely for vegging.
I believe it, I will do that (probably post-xmas), and no: using RO at this point… the legends of the hat factories at the bottom of Quabbin and all 
Do you use 707 for seedlings, too? At this point, I’m willing to try someone else’s formula for success 
Yes, currently. Outside, I make my own.
The only deficiency I know of that causes veinal chlorosis is copper. Maybe it’s locked up, maybe your mix has none. I’mma go over the thread and get back to ya.
Addendum #1 – I assume at some point the micro-deficiency idea was brought up and you tried to correct it. If so, that strengthens my thoughts that it’s caused by a high pH.
Addendum #2 – it’s awesome to see they’ve picked back up. I would guess the pH of the soil was a little high, because there seemed to be a bit of every acid -available deficiency. P, Mg, Fe, Cu, B.
Also. Cameron’s world is now my favorite website. Lmfao. Spent like twenty minutes there before I remembered I was halfway thru ya thread.
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Looks like we are chasing our tails let’s try a NPK & pH soil test if n is too high others lock out too
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Someone wrote an awesome thread on exactly that a couple months back, you should read it.
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For the record tho, I would bet money an npk test would come back within acceptable range, and the PH would be only slightly off leading to more confusion. The plants are npk and pH meters too.
Love when a problem sorts itself out tho. Now to find the flowering thread.
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the idea of a dedicated wet pot for comparison is good. over watering/overfeeding is common with seedlings. let one dry out completely before you water it a few times.
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To piggie back on this… are you letting excess water run out of the pots? I see a few posts up about letting the top layer completely dry out. And using another pot to compare. Dry or wet you still need to let water run out of the pot. 10-25% at least. You might also be inadvertently causing dry pockets in the soil, which would cause lots of stuff, slow growth and discoloring being two definitely.
Maybe this addressed further up?
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With the seedlings, I usually give them a swig (my favorite imperial unit), wait, and repeat until I see a little run-off. I’ll let that stand for a few minutes and give the soil an opportunity to soak it up if it needs it. They seem dry to the touch and light in the pot after 3 or 4 days.
After my complaining above, I gave them a mild feeding with organic bottle nutes, and they seem to have liked that… the C99, at least, didn’t respond well to my initial feeding of non-organic nutes, but maybe that was just too early. We’ll see how they look in a few more days.
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I have had this happen. I attributed it to poor soil prep, but poor watering technique can make it worse.
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I always do, and always have, as an organic soil grower. 100% of every plants life!
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