Organic increase in trichomes in last 3 weeks?

Hi,
Anyone got a secret tea to max trichomes development in the last 3-4 weeks of flower as the bracts start swelling?? Just asking… somewhat time critical…

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Whatever you do, don’t ask the grow-store people this question! :rofl:

They’ll have many useless & over priced options. :+1:

But nah, I don’t have a good answer to your actual question. :sweat_smile:

:evergreen_tree:

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Add a uv light in. I swear by uva, others swear by uvb. Maybe both?

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I have read everything over this exact question,

Molasses everyone says is good for it, but well as I read more sugar isn’t taken up by the roots, but it has some nutritional value for the plant in other forms.

I read raw natural honey helps, but there also the thing that it could potentially give ur plants a sickness from contamination. And the same thing roots don’t eat sugar.

Lol I also read that bug parts or fras whatever it is can help cause it makes the plant think its under attack :sweat_smile: so it defends with trichomes…

Umm I’m just gonna try everything :upside_down_face:and hope I find a route,

If the botany book I read are right it’s all about the light, trichomes refract light and keep the bud zone from drying a killing what the plant knows conserves its next life…

I read and probably shouldn’t cause I have no damn base knowledge :sweat_smile::sweat_smile:

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This this exactly :100: books say it now you say it :clap: book don’t lie :rofl::rofl::rofl:

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I’ve heard the same thing. Molasses. The extra shot of potassium, and more importantly the burst in microlife populations with the extra food for them to eat. Don’t know that it actually adds resin , but it’s supposed to increase yield by 15 to 20%. Make sure you flush very well before harvest, this stuff is full of magnesium, and it’ll make your weed smoke harsh if it isn’t flushed out. Make sure to get unsulphured molasses if you use it

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Some truth to this. I usually just drive a screw into the main stem of the plant 2 weeks before its chopped down. For the same reason you stated. Does it make a difference? Beats me.

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I believe that it Doesn’t matter what you add. It’s based solely on the genetics you are running and how consistent you treat her throughout the grow.

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My buddy does this outside. Gives a load of Potassium but he never flushes. Looks great, smells great and man it makes ya cough (harsh)

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Best answer yet.

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I haven’t done anything like that in awhile…i may try that again this year. Thanks for bringing it up. I used to use toothpicks…made the plant look like Pinhead from Hellraiser movies.

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Lmfao don’t turn it into a porcupine… I only used 1 screw and left it in.

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Lol. Only did that my first grow ever, but it was fantastic pot. I’ve seen pictures where people drive a machete through the middle of the stalk vertically, put a stick in there and then tie it back up… but I think I’ll just try a screw…lol.

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Someone should try it with two clones from the same mother…I used to do side by side tests like that with all kinds of nutes and stuff life sucked that inquisitiveness out of me years ago lol

I’m with mongo that genetics are the main factor (if you’re giving the plant everything it needs)

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I agree genetics are the main factor determining resin coverage, but stress can add additional resin. After all, resin is a protective coating against UV light, and bugs and other predators of plants. The same way that extra UV light causes the plant to throw out more resin to protect itself from the sun( plants growing a higher altitudes, above 1800 ft, produce 25% more resin as a response to the stronger sunlight in a thinner atmosphere) , when a plant feels it’s under attack, it does the same thing… produces more resin to defend itself. Excellent idea to do a side-by-side comparison.

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Hell maybe I should buy a small UV light and install it at my lights level :thinking:

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When stretch is almost over, hit em with a high cytokinin foliar. Whether you prefer coconut or kelp, or…

Then there’s Systemic Acquired Resistance (?) where the plant thinks it’s under attack and stops producing plant matter to instead increase its defenses. So things like putting chitin in the soil in the form of insect frass. Jasmonic acid from damaging leaves.

There’s also a dude who uses abscisic acid, with the jasmonic acid, but I’m a bit rusty on why the abscisic acid increases trichome production. I do have white papers to back up the claim if anyone is interested.
To naturally replicate it, right before harvest, you’d pinch tips of leaves to make the plant think it’s being eaten, to increase jasmonic acid production. And let the roots dry to drought conditions to force abscisic acid production. Your total yield will be lower but overall trichome yield should theoretically go up.

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Thanks for all the responses. My pics aren’t on this phone otherwise I would upload some, even though I have phone cell phone pics don’t do justice to trichomes on buds

So I grow under 1000 watt hps, doesn’t hps shoot out UV??

Second, I always use molasses once I start flowering- roughly 1 tablespoon to 3 gallons, because I make a gallon of tea then split it with fresh water by a third.

I am using Canna Bio Flores, Canna BioThrive, SuperThrive, and in the last three weeks rather than fresh water, I mix to three gallons of brewed tea, either green tea, Twining Earl Grey, or Constant Comment by Bigelow.

The soil was an effort to replicate BOG’'s recipe, but I couldn’t find Walmart organic so I used EVIL Miracle grow Organic soil, Bat Guano, Worm Castings, Aguave, Rock Gypsum, and Kelp Meal.

I have living earthworms from Earthworm Jim in my 7 gallon cloth bags. Roughly 15-25 worms in each pot.

From my point of view, I have always seen an enhanced presence of trichomes after cold and darkness, which may simply allow the plant to grow them.

I am now at the flushing phase because I flush for two weeks. I flush with tea as above. I agree that unflushed molasses tastes terrible, Aguave tastes worse: like unwashed dog hair.

I stop watering the last week and let them dry up hard, the last 3 days are in darkness, then 8-12 hours before the absolute chop, I hit them with whatever flavor I want, Big Red, Dr. Pepper, in this case Earl Grey with honey and cream, no need to dilute.

I let it uptake the flavor and chop.

If I had it to do again, I would have bought triple the kelp and no agave in the soil.

Will upload pics hopefully soon.

Thanks for all the suggestions

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Gonna try to post some pics taken 2 weeks ago with an old, old cell phone off the network, here goes: I have 2 females, the mother which was LST’d and the had clones taken from her, 2 clones didn’t survive, one did and became the placeholder of the gene, the second clone is the other plant in flower.

Each is a BOG Sour Blutooth, each the same genetics, but the clone which was rooted and about 3 tiers of leaves stretched, the mom didn’t stretch at all, which I think is very curious… the clone is 3 feet tall and all bud.


Also I don’t exfoliate…
Primarily because I believe fan leaves are a great buffer against mistakes in ferts, and tell me nearly immediately what’s up…

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