Only plant doing this in the mini scrog not sure why
It surely don’t look good any ideas @ifish@George@cdnBuddy@GramTorino
All buds on this plant are in the same shape
More weird shit
This skunk 1 on most nodes have 4 or 3 branches instead of 2 if this is a female I’ll run it in a 2 gallon bag topped at a node with 4 tops
I picked the fastest to show definite female pre flower and she went right in to the Octopot
I’ll give her a day to adjust to her new shows them I’ll top her
Ok WTF did I do
Oh calm down I’m a professional kids don’t try this with out supervision lol
Before
Blackened oranges and the mamosa evo I did a bit different I topped it at the 3 node like usual but I left the 2 bottom branches ! We shell see what happens
I have no idea paps , she’s deffo not happy , looks like you ran the octo dry but I no you wouldn’t have , must be somethin tho and something drastic , roots good? Nothing out of the ordinary happen in last week or too ?
You cannot see them naked eye until it is too late
Moreover, unlike other kinds of mites which leave certain residues or webbings behind, they leave no such kind of a trace and are hence very difficult to track. Furthermore, they are so tiny that it is impossible to see them by the naked eye unless there are like hundreds or thousands of them already infecting your plant.
The first signs of damage begin to appear when you notice that the upper edges of your marijuana plants’ leaves are beginning to get curled up. The color of your leaves will start becoming a little duller than usual over time.
The most critical sign of these specific mites is that the extremities of the plants (tops of the leaves) will have the most visible damage and they will begin to curl.
Broad mites are more common than russets. They’re both about 1/10th the size of a spider mite. Russets usually work from the bottom of the plant up. They’re so small, but can be devastating. They are difficult to diagnose due to their size (need at least 60x magnification) and the fact that their damage can present itself as any number of nutrient/light/heat issues. You’d see leaves like in George’s pic with curling tips. I’m not convinced that’s what you’ve got but it’s good to keep in mind…
Way less chance of overwatering if you bottom feed
Like just lift pot and lightly dunk one inch in and out, in Rez till required wieght , this gets fluid to root tips around bottom of pot but still keeps air in the top half for roots to breathe , where as top watering saturates everything top to bottom of pot drowning them if not carefull and exact A lot more control of things with bottom feeding
Also top feeding creates positive presure in pot from all the top weight pushing down ,can create bumpy leafs and overwatering
Bottom feeding pot draws up fluid creating negative presure in pot kind off
If you bottom feed the same amount of volume as you would when top feeding , your feeding would also last way longer as all fluid is accessable to roots tips , where as if you top feed the same amount half of it evapes never reaching roots , also the food that drys into soil in top half of pot will then be pushed down to bottom of pot next feeding raising ppm in root zone over time
Hard to put into words but easy when visualised : )
Difficult not to overwater tho in all this summer heat : ) I even got yellow mushrooms in one pot this summer from too damp soil , was having to bottom water and top just to get me to next day , heatwave here at moment 25/26 don’t laugh lol
Ok small pots and me don’t f@&$in agree
Well I dissected 3 small plants that looked beyond help
Roots were ugly how ugly
This ugly
So I bind the 3 and flushed the healthiest of them all
Collected the run off and it’s at 1480 ppms
So I believe it was lock out that started my problem @George@ifish what do you think?
Since they were under a net I couldn’t remove them to check
After flushing 4 times run off was 540 ppm I’ll flush them again next watering
Yes 1480 is way too high for me ( 2.9 ec ) others may disagree but we are pushing ratios too here , so we push even harder even tho a lower ppm is used
What caused that I don’t know
Maybe tweek you ppm thu out grow say by - 100ppm , see how they look , if you have burnt tips that’s a sign too to reduce by 100ppm , taking quick note each week on ppm and use info for next grow and so on , she may just be extreme light feeder , hard to find balance sometimes running different strains phenos in same grow as some can be miles apart , is what is : )
That’s why I always use bamboo sticks (since I saw them in Paintedfire420 plants ). Glad it wasn’t the Borg, hope they will react fine to those flushings.I always keep my ppm’s in a low profile …
@George when you said borg you got the mrs attention
So I was told it’s updated time
Let now start by taking a nice rip on the bong ! I got a nice joint goin so let’s roll
Main tent
All plants are trimmed and trained. I Filled res to the 2 level line with a 2/1/1 mix and added a pinch of Epson salts (1/2 teaspoon per the 10 gallons mixed )
At a total ppm of 860 my water is 160ish
Looking great Paps! You’ll have them whipped into shape in no time. Mad hippie on, bro!
Ok, I’m an official older noobie… but, what did you roll your joint with?? It looks like scotch tape, lol I’m pretty sure that I have never asked that question…
but those contorted leaves could be russet mites, grab one and check with a scope just in case, the rest look beautiful … 
). Glad it wasn’t the Borg, hope they will react fine to those flushings.I always keep my ppm’s in a low profile … 
