But, but, but…it sounds so promising, lol! I’ve got a tub if you want it!
2 Likes
I should compile a new list of shit that’s definitely not going to cut the mustard.
- baking soda
- vinegar
- potassium bicarbonate
- ultra violet radiation
- systemic fungicides
- LABS
- hydrogen peroxide
- Fulvic acid
- dr zymes
- lost coast therapy
- magic dance
- water
- urine
I’m sure I missed some, the list is fucking long.
3 Likes
- Ca and Aminos
2 Likes
My brain had this bizarre flash of insight. I wonder if cleistothecia only form on perennials?
1 Like
Pete, I wanted to post the consensus view on generating Hypochlorous acid with the Eco One…
This proceedure has been used by a number of growers with good success.
Note: some growers will run up to 5 cycles on the #3 setting, most will run it 3 cycles on the #3 setting.
The important thing to remember, regardless of cycles run, is to check your pH after each cycle…you want to keep the pH between 3.5-5.5 at all times…IF you want to store your generated acid for later use, here’s what you need to know…
Bring your pH down to about 3.7.
Use any colored HDPE jug (just not clear)
Store in an inside dark closet or cabinet…
Now for the standard proceedure :
1 liter distilled or R/O water
2 grams unionized kosher salt (Potassium Chloride, KCl is a very good substitute if you choose to use it…use the same weight as the kosher salt)
2 tbs distilled white vinegar
Run 8 min cycle
Check pH (add vinegar if necessary)
Run another 8 min cycle
Check pH (add vinegar if necessary)
Run another 8 min cycle…when completed, try to bring your pH down to 4ish…
Use full strength to control WPM, Alternatia, Bud Rot (Botrytis)
Note when spraying WPM the fungus is dead, but because there is NO OIL in this, the white (dead) mycelium will still be visible…it will eventually breakdown on it’s own but if you can’t stand looking at it just dip a soft towel in you acid and wipe it off…
5 Likes
Do you think it could be made into an eradication protocol?
2 Likes
Joe, because the generator allows growers to make cheap, effective acid…many are using it on a weekly basis as a preventative.
Keep in mind, particularly for bud rot, it’s BEST to eliminate the inoculum before a rain event and then follow up with another saturating spray when the weather breaks…buds have to be really saturated because botrytis loves to start in all the tight nooks and crannies of the structure.
I might point out that hypochlorous acid is what your white blood cells have utilized to eliminate infection in the body of humans since the beginnig of time…microbes WILL NEVER develop resistance to this super simple molecule…one Hydrogen, one Oxygen, one Chlorine…
2 Likes
Thanks…yet again!
3 Likes
Your very typical plastic jug!
2 Likes
well, that sort of answered my question! No evidence it can actually eradicate the problem in the long term. I’m more of a one and done guy. If that shit exists after I’ve done the prescribed treatment, I consider it a fail. Soooo, I’ll put it on the un-tested, yet falsifiable pile. It hasn’t suffered from a logic fail in the initial brain test.
Things that are gas based get an instant fail due to logical failure! I’ll explain what I mean…
I can rip in here and be "oh just grab chemical x and chemical y from the cupboard under the sink. Mix them together in a basin down in the grow, it’ll end mildew." while that claim is true… It’s never going to float in the real world. Also, you will die.
1 Like
See what I did there lol
2 Likes
I do bud washes for all my outdoor for all the bugs and bird shit I find and I stop days prior to harvest .I think this one is going to be alright I think I’d take my chances with this rather than some shit like eagle 20 that’s stuffs definitely no bueno.
2 Likes
hah hah we all agree that shit is not meant to touch something you are later going to ingest, let alone smoke. It’s side effect is hydrogen chloride gas. Fucking nasty. Licensed experts won’t touch that unless they are suited up.
1 Like
I just went in a deep dive with the Cease even if I’m not using it a lot of commercial operations on veggies fruit and ornamentals they are using cease in a lot of them here in NY if I seen it just on ornamentals I’d get a little nervous .the inert ingredients RO water are what ever they used to bind the solution good luck finding a patented formula in its entirety (even though it’s not a true solution and needs to be agitated in sprayer )The rest has to be some sort of a food source for the bacteria and something to stabilize it and if it’s a living organism I can bet it’s something not toxic I could be wrong but I hope I’m not.I’m thinking it’s kind of like big pharma where it’s not the dope guy that gets paid it’s whoever invents the binder who gets the real check.If it’s a method of keeping something together and stable I’d imagine it would be like this scenario.
1 Like
mixed a bucket of water/sulfur mix and submerged everything but the roots yesterday… The question is should I rinse the excess sulfur off? or just leave it on there till the next spray in 2 weeks.
2 Likes
I almost thought you were a scientist 
Kind of, lol! They wouldn’t be big pharma if it worked that way!
2 Likes
Just a smart ass trying to figure this grow game out and navigate the obstacles.Haha
3 Likes
Aye, aye, brotherman
2 Likes
wow you went nuclear! I don’t recommend rinsing it off, but it’s definitely done it’s thing if it’s crusted on there. I don’t think it can really BE washed off at that point. What concentration did you use?
2 Likes