Cool. Thanx for the reply. I also ran all clones this year, and all seeds last year. Last year was my first, and I let things get WAY thicker than this year without issue. It has also been more humid tho.
This worked for me……use it as part of your IPM and it works even better. Spray up to harvest (edit)
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Yeah I have been everywhere to find the pot. Bicarbonate but due to COVID I ordered some online because that was the one way to get it. But doesn’t arrive before another 2 weeks. If the milk cure doesn’t take will use h2o2…. That will definitely work as well
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Oh no! I feel that bud. Only reason I had the stuff on hand I cause I ordered in off Amazon with prime and lucked out it was accessable in 2 days.
Check out brewery stores if you got them near; they use this stuff all the time for PH control with brewing.
Hey all thanks for all of the great info….it validates that I am on the right track… have a great night
Sparky
Been to every brewer in a 100 km radius and every one has a substitute that has sulpher in it…. don’t want that. You can get it at the pharmacy but you need a script believe it or not.
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Some good information here
https://directgardensupply.com/blogs/knowledge/how-to-get-rid-of-powdery-mildew-during-flowering
This will definitely work just not sure about during flower
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I was referring to NON UHT treated, I suppose that high temperatures kill all the microbes that would be useful to fight WPM, but that’s just a speculation 
.
@Gugumelo kindly provided me this PDF, it’s in Portuguese, he may explain it better to you … 
11-leite-de-vaca-para-o-controle-de-oidio (1).pdf (280.2 KB)
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does LAB work for that too? I really don’t know but maybe someone can answer if yes or no.
anyway, i left a youtube link on how to make the Labs
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Hi guys, as I talked to @George , my experience was with beans, tomatoes and watermelon. It works well, but I always apply it after rain and wet nights.
I apply cannabis in vegetable as a preventive, once every 15 days…
For cannabis flowering, I think it is not a good idea, but in vegetables it is.
I’ve seen good recipes with peroxide and sodium bicarbonate… I believe they are better in flowering, leave less or no residue…
But, I learned as a basic rule, with rare exceptions, that the harmful fungi proliferate in an acidic environment, by alkalizing the surface of the leaf, you solve the problem. However, if there are spores in the area, they will appear again, as the environment is right.
Who knows, if you gently increase the pH of the irrigation water, you can solve the problem from the inside out…
What is the ph in the growing area? from water?
Someone with more experience can provide further clarification.
This is my contribution…
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Dude, thank you very much. I had forgot all about the chlorine dioxide, I actually have MP1 tabs right here. I don’t want to keep treating the plants I want something non toxic that will kill it and I believe this will. In remote camps we use it to keep our stored water safe due to weight restrictions flying potable water in. Never ever got sick from the water.
Just waiting for weather to clear so I can see how the milk treatment worked.
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Google Search: How do you get rid of powdery mildew forever?
Has anyone used Cease, I have and do, It does not fail me, ever. Worm Castings in soil, worm castings foliar sprayed in guano/castings tea before I met Cease, Now That and Cease, It has CEASED my need to question what works. If ya know what I Mean
CEASE can be used for organic production and targets common fungal diseases such as Botrytis, Powdery Mildew, Anthracnose, Didymella bryoniae (Gummy Stem Blight) and several leaf spot diseases such as Alternaria and Entomosporium. CEASE also controls bacterial diseases such as Pseudomonas, Erwinia, and Xanthomonas spp., as well as the soil diseases Rhizoctonia, Pythium, Fusarium and Phytophthora.
CEASE is a contact biological fungicide containing a patented strain of the bacterium Bacillus subtilis which works in two ways. First, the bacterial spores occupy space on the plant surface and compete with the pathogens; then active compounds called lipopeptides produced by each bacterium disrupt the germination and growth of invading pathogens. Due to this action, resistance is not likely to develop. CEASE can be used in combination with and/or in rotation with other products and as part of an effective resistance management program.
Benefits of Cease:
- Safe for beneficial insects and bees!
- OMRI listed & safe for use on food crops. Can be used with growth regulators.
- Effective against both bacterial and fungal diseases.
- 4-hour REI, 0-day pre-harvest interval.
- No phytotoxicity or residues on foliage or flowers.
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What worked for me to rid p.m. from my space was foliar feeding/soil drenching early on in veg with geranium oil (in water). Most p.m. products on the market have geranium oil. Look into it…haven’t seen PM since i started doing this!!!
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If a soil user, wormcastings in soil and subsequent teas Bat/Worm castings will lead to no molds, botrytis or PM. If you go Living soil, worms love food of banana skins and general vegetable matter.
No fungicide during flowering. A lot of people get PM from having over saturated soil. Plus some strians are just more likely to get PM then other strians
No phytotoxicity or residues on foliage or flowers
Ok update……checked this morning after leaving a day and there is no sign of pm ….the plants actually grew and look really great…. So I would say that the milk treatment worked for me……am going to do one more today as insurance…….took pics but am on my data will post later…… only have no before shots so will have to take my word lol
I heard this on a podcast that I don’t remember the name of at the moment, BUT the host was talking to an outdoor producer that swore by labs as a preventive / treatment to eliminate pm. I plan on trying it in future outdoor as a preventive.
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