No I haven’t gotten that far, but it looks like some patience with a sharp utility knife should do it. I will make a template so both sides line up. I plan to use the bottom portion of the door frame for added stability. Worst case I buy a new door for $40. 
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A trick I learned long ago was (after the hole is cut) to glue a small block of pine (inside) where I want to put a screw.
The thin skins of those doors are reasonably stiff but I’d probably caulk.
Cheers
G
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I use to sell lumber and home improvement material. I would definitely go with making a wood frame in the door and use liquid nails or equivalent. Depending on the size of the hole your are cutting, that door will have many problems if not properly reinforced. They suck once you cut them.
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One Love Brother…
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I needed a good laugh today.
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I had a few hours Friday to work on the workshop, so I decided to install the doors. First I trimmed the bottom of the door jam because these are cut for carpet. Then I got the flower room door shimmed and nailed in place. The door was just barely scraping the floor, nothing my hand planer wont make short work of.
Feeling confident, I started to put the veg room door in place. First the top of the door slid in place, but the bottom wouldnt fit! I took out my tape measure, and sure enough the top was correct, but the bottom was off by 1.5". After removing the screws in the drywall, I was able to break free the 2x4 in the door jam. I couldn’t, however, break the stud free.
I decided to cut a scrap piece of 2x4 to the correct length and tried to pound the stud over. Well, I had the flower room door open and the whole wall scooted over 1". When I tried to close the flower room door, it wouldnt shut. I figured it would probably still fit if I removed the shims, so I chiseled out the shims and pulled the nails. The two doors barely fit this way and I called it a day without finishing.
That night, I was talking with my dad about my predicament and he gave me an orbital cutting tool with a metal cutting bit. The next day, I pushed the wall back, so the flower room door was square again.
Then I was able to cut the nails that were holding the stud in place and move it to where it belonged. I screwed the sheetrock back down and trimmed it square. Finally I trimmed the extra 1.5" off the 2x4 on the concrete with a sawzall.
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Damn. I am tired just reading what you did.
It will definently be an amazing set up.
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Thats what I was thinking too man. A lot of work goes into creating magic !
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Yeah I did that on the first 2 doors in my basement, after that I left them 2 inches wider than I needed, so I could shim with up to 1 inch thick plank if needed. I always put the top in first and the side after.
I first used ready made door frames, that come with the door, but its a pain in the arse trying to get them all squared up without them falling apart with there crappy little staples that hold them together. So long as the trim covers the gap and you can pin it to the frame, you can stuff fibre glass batting in the gaps or use expanding spray foam. Just dont use the spray foam until you know the door fits properly lol. My biggest problem was come winter time, the wood shrinks and you have to pack behind the hinges to push the door over a bit so it closes lol.
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they are using that stuff for setting posts these days. Use to tape a penetration after the conduit was thru the wall use expanding foam and repair the holes the silicon over them. This for the lines into the walkin’s from the evaps. You can use gray silicon gets a smooth and vapor proof seal.
Nice work Reikox
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Those orbital cutting tools are the greatest invention since sliced bread and instant coffee.
I have heard so many stories like this… like reading an old JB wield ad. 
Cheers
G
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I’d hate to think how many ways I’ve used JB Weld. that stuff is amazing.
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Got the doors fit last night. It was a lot easier now that the rough opening is correct.
I also fixed my trim screws, they are all vertical now. Thanks to everyone who set me straight on trim screws.
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I hope you used a level to align the slots 
Are you taking the doors off again to cut the air vents, or are you doing them like that, now they are in?
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I’ll pop them off the hinges to cut the vents and paint them. Need to trim up the bottom of them both a tad, they are catching on the texture of the floor.
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Busy day in the workshop today. I started my day by taking down the curtains and blinds, then taping around the window trim. Interestingly, the tape worked much better now that the humidity is up around 65% RH. It’s our monsoon season, and has been raining daily for the last week or so.
After taping everything off, I was able to get the window trim painted. I spent a bunch of time debating painting underneath the shelf. I mean, I didn’t even notice it wasn’t painted until a couple of days ago. In the end, I decided to put one quick coat on it and leave it be. After the paint dried, I pulled the tape and put back up the blinds and curtains.
I spent the rest of the afternoon cutting the baseboard that goes behind the workbench. I cut the pieces to length, then painted them before installing them. This baseboard is against a concrete wall, so I had to use some liquid nails to attach it. Finally, I caulked the seams and touched up any paint.
With the baseboard complete, I was able to put the workbench back together where it goes. I’m happy to say, I still had room for the workbench, and the door opens completely. There is even enough room between the door casing and the flower exhaust vent, that was a close measurement. Workbench needs a good cleaning and to replace that front melamine.
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Hey Reikox
Slowly and steadily this is coming together, starting to look great, can’t wait to se it finished. Keep up the good work mate.
Cheers Johnny
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Looks good, I thought you may have cut the baseboard too long on the door side but I just blew the pic up and its an optical illusion lol.
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Yeah, it looks like a hinge doesnt it?
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Yes it does had me fooled good lol.
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