Seed Run Co-Op Bodhi F2 DBHP - Give Away Has Ended

Possibly. Jeff Lowenfels covers a lot in his teaming books…admittedly I haven’t read any of them though have quickly scanned the pages and decided not to purchase as a lot of it was covered when he wrote gardening articles and had an hour time slot up here going over how it all works in practical applications as people learn how to garden in “unfriendly” cold areas.

He is one of the few today that I respect as he even admits that this is nothing new just widely misunderstood as nutrient manufacturers like to scare people ie. microbes can kill you so buy our fancy formulation to guarantee your safety or our microbes are guaranteed to satisfy your plant or some bs like that adding to the mystification of the soil food web leaving the gardener left to keep dumping in microbes and not teaching how to keep them alive or in balance…Lowenfels helps to demystify it

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Today they are getting the LAB soil drench I made yesterday as well as, a foliar of 1/8 tsp Nettle tea and 1/4 tsp horsetail tea in 5 1/2c water

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Whelp, most of the plants did not like the diluted Nettle tea so I am removing it from their foliars though they did love the boost from the LAB and liquid fish drenches…

Day 17

Day 16

Day 14

It appears that #7 has added to the weird growth topping itself with this new leaf set. Ahhh well thats how it goes sometimes :wink: In other news, the catgrass seeds have sprouted in record time with a household led bulb

Just in time to transplant them into the nutrient rich soil tomorrow under a 315 cmh in my 3x3x8 cabinet

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:confounded:
Horsefeathers & poppycock. Just as I am formulating my reply I read this:

:laughing: :smile:

I dare say some LITFA too but I’d better be ready to duck quick… :wink:

:evergreen_tree: :innocent:

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Lol If I was keeping them in these, LIFTA would be apropos for another week though I want to let them settle in by their 21st day and not lose momentum when they really start to grow having a nice root system.

I plan on having clones to sex by the 21st then i’ll keep the boys in flower for pollen collecting and flower the girls around Oct 12th to mail out seeds around Christmas then i’ll run the girls perpetually through the rest of the winter for more seeds… each should run ~15 wks from clone to finish. If I can get the timing right, i’ll have 3 seed runs done by next summer :wink:

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Time to get the cabinet set up! Lets start with the blumat water line…

Now I have previously ran this cabinet with a single water line branch an a spigot on the end though every once in awhile I had to bleed the line as air would enter…sometimes I forget to add water to the 5 gallon bucket lol or if I allowed the main water line to dip too low, the 2nd cabinet gets reduced water flow. So while it will remain an “open” line next door, this one will be a closed loop for equal pressure as the line drops down and goes back up to the main line.

Lets start by laying out the plants future home… 3 gallon fabric pots

As you can see, where ever I want a blumat carrot, the line is cut to insert the blumat “T”… 8mm on waterline sides, 3mm on the carrot side. Instead of ordering more 8mm line, I opted to use a 1/4" water line from the hydro store. Since its a very snug fit, I have to heat up one side with my body heat and insert needle-nose pliers to widen the end a bit…

I keep adding water line and attaching the blumat “T”'s until I come back to the main water line so now it looks like this

Once I am sure on placement, I raise the pots so they are not sitting on the concrete…not because its cold though that would be a great reason, I do it because I have in floor heat and want the water to evaporate evenly as fall sets in bringing winter along with it. No need to get fancy, I use cut up styrofoam blocks, adjustable vent clamp, metal pot hangers for rails, locker organizers, grate balanced on wood blocks etc. just get them up off the floor :wink: Now the blumat drippers are added…the 1st dripper needs to be ~3" away from the sensor as this one tells the sensor when to turn on. The other dripper’s get placed ~6" apart keeping the end dripper 6" away from the sensor. Since I place the sensor close to the plants roots, the dripper’s need to be placed around the pot…this allows the roots to expand to the edge of the pot while allowing the soil to dry a bit before the sensor turns the water back on. They too, need to be raised a bit so they are not resting right on the soil as they can get clogged or get in the way for topdressings…once again, binder clips to the rescue!

Even the blue water line gets the binder clip treatment so it too, can stay out of the way. So now it looks like this

The soil is on the wet side so I will wait to insert the carrots (sensors). Instead, I looked over the plants and decided they need a shot of microbial tea: In 1 gallon water, mix in 1Tb liquid fish, 1/2Tb rice/sugar microbe mix and 1/2Tb Lab

The tea does 2 things, moistens the seedling soil so it doesn’t fall apart in the transfer and lets the microbes be added to the new pots without adding more moisture. After 2 hrs, they went into the new pots except for #7, it will go into a 2qt pot once the soil dries out a bit more so it can get slightly root bound and hopefully get over its weirdness…time will tell on that one.

Immediately the light is turned off so the plants can settle in over 6 hrs. When lights come on in ~2.5 hrs, i’ll check the soil for moisture level as its important to wait til its just right otherwise, the water flow may happen before the plant is ready and could overflow out of the bottom…this would defeat the purpose of the system. Meanwhile, the carrots are soaking in a gallon pitcher so they stay hydrated while we wait.

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The blumat system allows soil growers the freedom to run their environments like hydro growers do without the need to frequently adjust ph or add nutrients as the soil buffers ph and nutrients are added by topdressing or one could make nutrient “spikes” to place just under the sensors and/or drippers…if doing soil drenches, simply turn down the carrot allowing the soil to dry out more as it can go anaerobic if the soil cannot “breathe”

Now lets talk about the different choices Trompf offers…

Single plant or “Junior” is just that…single pot with its own soda bottle water reservoir. Being so small, water flow is really slow - too slow for our cannabis plants…even little ones in 2quart pots as the roots will wrap around the sensor to siphon the water faster. These are put to use in my window boxes or set a 1-2 liter bottle on it to replace the cap if I know I can’t water my houseplants for awhile.

Original… the one that started it all! When they 1st came out, they were restricted to 1 per plant or every 6" around the pot. Since these are controlled by an individual tensiometer in the cap, you control the flow rate. These are great for raised beds, plastic pots and shallow fabric pots. Though many run these in 3-7 gallon size, I personally do not like them in more than a 3 gallon as the bottom dries out faster than the top in my environment leading to plants with shallow roots…those in more humid environments gets the best use of these.

Maxi’s… Trompf’s answer to the Original’s shallow watering as the sensor sits much deeper in the pot. For the people that already invested in the Original’s, they recommended to stick one of these in the bottom of the pot with its own dripper…combining the 2 allows for watering throughout the pot though harder to dial in and who wants a hole in the bottom of a pot? I don’t and believe it is overkill unless in a raised bed taller than 2’

Accessories
Drippers - these truly are the answer to less equipment as they act as an extension of the sensor effectively watering a 6" circular area…for this reason, the 1st dripper needs to be within 3" of the carrot otherwise the soil may become waterlogged as the carrot needs to be rehydrated before it shuts off or runs out of water. Also, if you run nutrients in the reservoir they need to be loosened to allow the “thicker” water through and may become clogged in between the sensor turning them on/off leading to dry spots. and killing off roots as well as, microbes…learned my lesson trying out megacrop through the system - dismantled each dripper 6 times in 3 months.

Soaker hose - I still have yet to try this though from what I see, they are excellent for large beds to replace all but 1 dripper though many say that they make the soil too wet as they do not turn off right away like the drippers do.

Pressure Reducer - eliminates the need for a reservoir as this allows hook up to a water line whether it be from a hose or shared line from like an auto ice cube maker. While they sound awesome, I personally do not trust it because a reservoir runs out of water eventually if/when the sensor loses its calibration leading to flooding.

Digital Moisture Level Sensor Meter - Now I really don’t get these though I suppose it would be beneficial if someone had a difficult time setting the carrots up or extra security knowing what moisture # a pot has in a 6" area…some say 4 while others say 9. I rather rely on what the plant shows me as they hit spurts of non drinking and spurts of guzzling like no tomorrow depending on what stage they are in or how good/poor the root system is.

There are many diagrams for set up idea’s
Really all one needs is a reservoir, tank connector, 8mm tubing, 3mm or 1/4" tubing, 1 maxi per 3+ gallon pot as there is more freedom in choosing depth or a Junior for up to 2 gallons, a few drippers for even watering and a couple of shut off valves so one could remove the reservoir for cleaning and/or bleed the lines…if a reservoir cannot be at least 2’ above a pot or a larger reservoir is wanted, throw in a pump to circulate it though imho, the gravity fed style is what made this system so attractive…that and having a smaller 3-5 gallon reservoir eliminates the need for conditioners, bubblers etc as it gets used before the water goes stagnant.

One last note
Do not be tempted at the carrot knock offs as they do not have a ceramic sensor which is crucial to the efficiency of the whole system…everything else can be from any company as long as the size is correct :wink:

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Whelp, the soil is still not dry enough though I did take the opportunity to add a shut off/flush valve to the “circle” and install a 2nd air vent as it needed done anyhow.

I am sure they’ll be at the “right” moistness in the morning…~12 hrs should do it

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:thinking:

so they’re more prone to overwatering than underwatering?

have you tried them on a very-porous/non-absorbent media?

i very much like the non-electronic valves… “sensor carrots”. :thumbsup:

i wonder if they get “salty” internally over time?

growmom. making up for mrs. Palin. :laughing:

:evergreen_tree:

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Thanks for the detailed tutorial on Blumats. I have some of the Jr. and had a similar experience as you. I keep them around just in case and should set them up next time I travel.

The digital tensiometer is useful for those of us who still like to hand water. It’s a objective measurement of the soil moisture. Combine it with the objective methods like lifting pots or sticking your finger in the soil, it can teach a new growers how to water peoperly.

:star: :star: :star: :star: Post

I subtracted a star for the use of “spikes”, but at least you didnt add “layers”. :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:I hate Duh Rev’s TLO book…

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Its all in the calibration…if turned up too high = over water; if turned too low = underwater. This is why its important to wait until the soil is at the right moisture level otherwise its a battle

Kinda. When one needs cleaning, i’ll set a carrot in an empty pot - after 24 hrs, the water inside the “stick” is completely gone…I forget where I saw it but one person, hung one just over a bucket with the ceramic sensor part way submerged in the water so when the small reservoir dipped below the carrot, it was refilled by a larger reservior…extra work though fascinating

It all depends upon the water source…with my well water at 220ppm’s I need to clean them out every 2-3 grows by soaking in 1:20 bleach water and use a baby bottle scrubber otherwise calcium deposits build up in the carrots which can be seen on some of the drippers. Its a good idea to clean them out or at least refresh the water inside the carrot just before a grow anyhow just don’t have to dismantle everything on every grow like other automatic systems

ROFL! :stuck_out_tongue:

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Nice! They are great for short term watering

Ahhh now that makes more sense though i’ll keep my $50-60 and just watch the plants :stuck_out_tongue:

Rofl! Thank you for the 4 stars…better than 2 :stuck_out_tongue: Ya know, I haven’t read the Rev’s TLO book though see it mentioned frequently in diy soil mixes along with nutrient “spikes”…totally forgot about layering that some do lol

I prefer to simply broadcast if the soil really needs it otherwise it gets made into a foliar to keep the soil balance…many just make it harder than what it actually is :wink:

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Lazy gardener here! I cut out everything possible. Been thinking about incorporating foliar feedings back into the fold, but they are soooooo messy.

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Same here though trying out a small dutch bucket dwc just for the experience…so far its a pia and wouldn’t continue if it wasn’t for agreeing to be a nutrient tester. Foliars are messy though the plants love them and its an excellent way to see if a soil addition is absolutely necessary as some inputs do not belong in the soil though great boost for the plants

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Checked on the soil this late morning…I like where the moisture level in the surrounding soil so lets finish putting the system together!

First, depth is determined…the maxi’s are really longer than needed though imho, the original isn’t deep enough. Yesterday, the plants were set at a depth of 6 1/2" so the carrots will stick up 3" above the top of the soil.

Currently, I ran out of maxi carrots so #3 gets an original carrot…if there is an issue with depth, i’ll either purchase another one or trade it out with one of the Cackleberry’s as they are close to being done anyhow though at this stage, I doubt all 6 are girls so its no big deal

Now, the carrot gets filled with water from the gallon pitcher they soaked in, capped and inserted into the soil

Since I do not like to disturb the soil more than whats required, minor adjustments are made to the drippers for proper distance determined by the carrot placement

Close enough! I do this for every pot in the cabinet and found they really only needed 3 drippers and not the 4 I set in. Once all set, the clean reservoir gets turned back on and to ensure water completely fills the water lines, they need to be bled for both cabinets to remove all the air… this also alerts to a potential clogged water line from the get go

If water flow isn’t great and absolutely sure a water line isn’t clogged then the reservoir and/or main line will need to be raised until it is though 2’ above is a good distance. Now each carrot will need to be calibrated by the dial at the top of the carrot following the notches

I like to start with the carrot turned all the way down and slowly turn it up til there is a hanging drip though one can start with it all the way up just make sure the drippers stay at the proper distance while looking for that hanging drip…to be sure, i’ll shake the drip and watch it slowly form again

Once its where it needs to be, the carrot gets turned down 2 notches for a slight delay in water flow though since I will be doing periodic soil drenches, I turn them down 3 notches though could go 4.

This is done for every pot. Now we’ll wait to even touch it again for 3 days. In the meantime, i’ll watch for water “rings” in the soil just below a dripper…if there is none, i’ll assume the soil is properly hydrated though if there is one missing from an area while the other drippers are making the “rings”, that tells me the dripper may be clogged and needs to be replaced and cleaned before using again.

That is pretty much it until the plant shows me it wants more or less water or if I see a puddle below the pot though ime, that usually happens later if the plant is misread for wanting more water when it really wants more nutrients

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Now that that is done, lets take a closer look at each plant as this will be the baseline for future watering needs

Day 19 for 1 - 3

Day 18 for 4 - 6

Day 16 for 7

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this is the second time in my life i’ve seen a :straight_ruler: tape measure used when transplanting. my dad used a bubble-level too. :rolling_eyes: can’t have an asymmetrical hedge now, can we? ayayayyyyy…

:evergreen_tree: he’s still crazy but i’ll tell him about this :smile:

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They come in handy from time to time…suppose i could have used my fabric tape for precision around the pots lol a level eh? now thats a new one on me

:stuck_out_tongue:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_u8q3zgc0t8

Most of us have been there :wink:

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They are loving their new environment!

Tomorrow #7 will get transplanted into the 2qt pot and #1-6 will receive an Anionic Phosphoric Acid Tea for a foliar - I will make it before I crash tonight from the long day so its at room temp when I apply it at lights out tomorrow evening…

For every gallon of water, mix 3Tb molasses, 4oz flat cola, 1 tsp quick lime, 2.5 Tb Fish hydrolysate (liquid fish), 1 tb kelp, 2oz Apple Cider Vinegar and 1/4 tsp Sea salt

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Feel free to add to this thread anytime ! I love homemade concoctions’

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